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Everything posted by larryllix
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Did you build the Insteon Scene connection using the ISY as the scene manager? ISY doesn't know statuses unless the devices tell them. Insteon devices do not send out status changes from scenes IIRC. If so remove the scene from both units and/or factory reset them, restore them from ISY and then use ISY to build the scenes so ISY knows what you are doing or use programs to pass the information.
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Insteon devices can do this quite well with their ramping. Other devices do not do it well. The look of the sequence is important though, and can be annoying looking if some care is not teken with the appearance, for sure. I only see two complete cures. Amazing protocol speed and delay all responses for a synchronised effect signal. Sonos, chromecasting, and other synchronised audio systems must be using this method.
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I try to set my ramp rates to different speeds to match and the differences are not that visible.
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It isn't the power supply. The 6A 12V PSU feeds multiple strips just fine in a radial configuration, but the tiny conductors in the strips have too much voltage drop to feed a sequential 5m of strip. I was thinking of beefing up the power supply trace with an external conductor also but every one of the five would need to be done or just one single negative return. The best way I have found is to use a common box with two sets of electroncs and feed both directions every 10m, 5m each direction. PSU can be shared if 6 ampere.. Only one receptacle end required and the RGBWW strips run just fine on a 3A supply anyway.
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The two protocols are not complete backup for each other. The whitepapers describe dependence on each other. RF only gets repeated over powerline and vice versa. RF is dependent on powerline for synchronisation of hop timing. Of course a whitepaper is only a public concept, not what is actually being used.
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Eliminate powerline? No. Decouple them them? Yes. I can see the original Insteon powerline protocol to continue to exist for distance and usually reliability. I can see the Insteon RF to completely change into a higher throughput protocol that is not coupled, nor synchronised to powerline at all. I am not sure how that would logically work but the speed of RF is desirable. RF is a problem with metal electrical boxes and short distance. Maybe it doesn't have to be.
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From what I have heard (somewhere ), the manual query doesn't do it. I don't know why there there would be (or could be) a difference between program Queries and manual queries. The MS doesn't respond to manual queries anyway. Of course putting it into linking mode may help.
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Which MS version do you have? The original MS doesn't have a heartbeat. and the lowBatt sgnal is only sent once. I have seen reports to use a query of the MS in an ISY program to clear that past indication. ISY only indicates the last thing it was told by the device.
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Here is an example of Insteon's new promise engineering. Battery isolator strip pulls out and catches battery negative end spring, damaging it. (bottom end of battery) Here is the previous Rev2.0 design without this stupidity.
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Yawn. Looks like they have no idea what to do next. We are going to, we are going to, we are going to... I just received two more defective design Leak Detectors. The PCBs do not fit inside the case. Brilliant engineering and even more impressive QC....NOT! I still use only their products though. Their basics are still the best IMHO.
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CAO Wireless tags and WC8 with 1wire probes. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
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There are rules around venting. I can;t remember the rules from years back but vents on a roof must be x feet above the highest roof peak within y feet of the vent. Winds will cause turbulence off the roof peaks and create down draughts or venturi reactions if the placement is not right. Usually the solution is to extend your roof vent higher by one length of pipe. A proper wind proof cap designed to reject turbulence may help also. I have not relied on the geofencing ability of the Tags for anything serious so can't report on the reliability of it. I report the signal failure signal from KumoApps and I suspect it may not be totally reliable. I have caught the signal still not updated after I got home and loaded the admin console. That takes almost 10 minutes on my small laptop. I am not sure if there is a better comm path for this. I think PolyGlot node only reads the data from the same source as KumoApps, CAO's provided smart system. However I do use the signal for garage door left open after I leave so perhaps the failure is detected faster than the signal restore logic. I detected the car unit almost 2 km. away once as my wife came up the rural back road. Consider the rural to be radio quiet though.
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You stated you are in Canada and that means you probably have a very air-tight house. In some homes, running a bathroom exhaust or stove exhaust fan can produce enough low air pressure backdraught that can extinguish your water heater pilot flame or, depending on the era of the DHW / fireplace design, endanger the occupants with CO2. At times a puff of air pressure or vacuum from the roof vent can extinguish the pilaot flame too. That gap between the tank and the flue is supposed to help avoid this. Your plumber should have been aware of this but...who knows? Designs and ideas are changing constantly. Even a window cracked open slightly can cause a house vacuum, depending on the direction of the window across that Venturi opening. Tight seals can be a problem in other places. My NG DHW uses outside air only but I still get an error reported, shutting the thing down from weather gusts that travel down a 45 and three 90s. stalling the power exhaust fan.
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Yes. Most of us are Canadian where we have lighting and heating needs, unlike our U.S. brothers and sisters, where the sun never sets and it is always warm. I got mine all from the CAO online store but it seems like they are trying to distribute their sales to other venues. Try amazon.ca. I haven't seen them on aartech.ca yet but haven't looked either. My advice would be to at least one more Pro Tag (with 13 bit resolution and memory for months of data) because once set up you are going to like these. I have used a few to calibrate thermostats to the same offset, check duct temperatures and room temp. and humidity gradients for HVAC, outside weather, luminescence (not implemented in ISY programs yet), detection of the vehicle from 1/2 km. down the road, and many more things I can't even remember. I haven't implemented any motion detection with them but others have.
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To add to that, for people with <Win 2K coding experience, the ISY Wait and Repeat are like inserting a voluntary "give up your time slice to the o/s". Early windows apps required the code writer to do regular "releases" of their time slice to make the multitasking function work since Windows wasn't a "real" multitasking o/s. In VB it was dummy = DoEvents() In C++ sleep 0
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Yes. It is a sealed metal encapsulated DS18B20 chip. They are available for about 99 cents each on eBay etc... IIRC the CAO unit is more money but comes with a convenient mini plug-in jack for the plastic Tag part.
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Note. to use a time frame over the end of the year you must use "OR" logic like this. If MM.DD >= 12.24 OR MM.DD <= 1.12 Otherwise you would use "AND" Logic like this If MM.DD >= 12.24 AND MM.DD <= 12.26 To isolate a month you would still have to use a range like this If MM.DD >= 12.00 AND MM.DD <= 12.99 (or 12.31) This will not work MM.DD = 12 because the variable will never be just an Integer in this logic.
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The point was a clarification of what PaulBates posted above. If Program1 calls program2 while program2 is still running it will start over anyway, so it isn't a complete isolation. Eg. Program1 If whatever Then Repeat every 2 seconds call Program2 (if) Else ------ Program2 If whatever Then turn On Light Wait 5 seconds turn Off Light Else ---- Light will never turn off. Program1 will start Program2 again every 2 seconds interrupting the Wait 5 seconds, regardless of Program2 logic.
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Wow! You are a well kept man! Hawaii and expensive condo? I have my GH working better (I thought) than previously. One that has me baffled badly yet. This works flawlessly with Alexa but with GH all the colours work fine except "Red" Alexa/GH Turn on red headboard. ......OK turning on two red lights. Turns on my Gathering room Red lights also. Gathering room lights are just "Red Lights". I eliminated the ending word "Lights" or GH fails on all colours by operating all programs/lights/scenes with that colour name in them. All colours I have tried work fine but GH, hearing the word "Red" turns on or off every device or program with the work "Red" in it????? You seem to be doing better with GH. Maybe you know of some type of element name or reserved word I should be avoiding? I have just given up on GH except for more entertainment items, which it mostly performs better than Alexa.
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ISY has the speed and can handle commands back to back without bogging down. However the Insteon comm channel cannot handle constant commands. I had some problems with this too. If you have a bad unit that doesn't ACK right away or noise the next command can clobber the protocol sometimes. This gets bad if a unit is unplugged and ISY seems to send it anyway. I found putting bad units at the end of the list worked but in the middle of all the units it clobbered the next three units in the program list. Bumbleshoot's 2 second delays makes it more bulletproof, if you can stand the looks of the delays. If one particular unit fails a lot, look back at what the previous units are in the list and insert delays between or move the suspect to the bottom.
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The newer Onkyo receivers have Sonos support built in. My Onkyo Receiver (a year or two old) has Chromecast built now. When I bought the receiver I don't think Chromecast even existed. I am not sure if that was a recent upgrade though as I upgraded the software about a year ago. It works well alone by streaming at the GH command and shows that info on the front of the screen. I like it but will not likely use it unless I go to unlimited Internet bandwidth at extra cost per month. I use my ISY to command the Onkyo (above) to receiver a few preset stations from Alexa and GH, the same. These are RF FM stations however but every third or fourth try GH likes to think it outsmarts me and stream the station instead of just sending the commands to ISY. The commands are completely different between the streaming command (no ISY required) and ISY commands directed to the Onkyo receiever (FM reception) excpept for one word in the name string, the nickname for the station, and again GH is using it's AI guessing to substitute what it thinks I wanted. Grrrrrr... Very annoying...so again my Alexa units get used instead, because they don't guess making errors. GH sound quality and listening quality in a noisy room is better, for sure. Nothing is perfect, except for you and me and I am not so sure......
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I keep telling you to come over to the Dark side = Alexa! What is the basic difference between the GH Hub and regular GH devices? I hear screen with clock for looks. Do you connect directly to it or via the GH app? BTW: I rebuilt my GH stuff from scratch again and the casting involving my Onkyo receiver is kind of cool. (The initialisation each time is very time consuming) I don't usually do much streaming but the synchro with four devices around the house is very amazing. This exemplifies the ridiculous price of Sonos speakers very well now. (I have none...it was some of those, or a new luxury car ) On the similar vein I see iHome stuff (brand?) is supporting Alexa using larger speakers and other gadgets where an Echo puck drops into the top of volcano holes and enhances sound etc...
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But..... If the initiating program has another trigger and runs the second program (with or without If logic lines) whatever is running (Then/Else) will stop and the appropriate section (dependant on the If logic outcome) will start from the top anyway.
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CAO wireless tags have units with cheap probes and are very reliable and easy to integrate with ISY Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
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Are your strips 24volt? I find the 12volt strips get dim at the far end when I attach two 5m strips in series. The strips come with connectors on both ends and it makes it easy to split the strips into two pieces without soldering new connectors onto the LED PCBs. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk