larryllix

Yes. You would be dumping the new owners into a technology way over their heads. Sure they a fascinated by it and they want it but look how long it takes others to get to that point. It is asking for a world of hurt. The new owner should start into the advanced level that you leave them but I would eliminate every fancy feature you can for them to start with. If the new owner ever comes up to speed, he/she can buy their own fancy peripherals and you will be free of training and retraining that is about to happen. Cripes! I left a security system in my last home I sold and with all the default setups and passwords restored back to the manuals I left for the new homeowners, and written instructions what to do, I still heard threats of suing for a system they could make use of. It finally went away after I informed the real-estate agent where the info was, again. People just want things to work magically and they may step on anybody they can blame for their own incompetence.

It's usually pretty easy to decide when to notify the human and cause alarms. The difficult part is deciding when to reset them, so they can activate again. You will have to decide when that should occur. immediately - that was your complaint. after a time after the temperature returns to a defined tempearure (hysteresis) never a combination

Please paste your programs here so we can have a look without guessing too much. You can copy to clipboard with a right click on the program in the program tree. Off the cuff. Have you forgotten to use From 12:00 AM to 7:00 AM (next day) ?

Welcome to the forum!!! Program1 If temperature <= 80F Then turn A/C off notify my owner run (If) program 'Reset' disable This.Program Else ---- Reset (enabled to run at startup) <--- need to always cock this baby or it may not fire. if ---- Then Wait x hours turn A/C On? enable Program1 Else ----

The main clue there is "New". Every Insteon device should be factory reset before installing into ISY. The factory leaves these things with unbelievable qualities that you may never see again. I had one MS send the opposite status. Alas! It is easy now. Just factory reset the device, and then use Restore (right click on the device in the device tree) in the admin console. It will restore the settings ISY "believes" should be inside the device. Takes about 2 minutes. Be sure to only do one battery device at a time and put it into "Linking mode" before trying to write to any battery device. Start with the odd unit and proceed to the rest as time permits.

The "On" level is changed twice per day. The On times are the same and use the exact same method...MS ---->Scene On--->Dimming Device. The On level from the MS is immediate no matter what level of brightness is used.

Read down about four posts.

Alexa announcements operate from NRs and not programs (like this one) directly. You need to set up a set of NRs, each with a text and then use them from your program.

Sorry! Skills are just for Alexa. My google Home stopped communicating with the ISY Portal for a few months and google support told me on several occasions they never heard of UDI or the ISY Portal. The ISY Portal started complaining with a similar error about 4-5 months ago and some here thought it wasn't required anymore. My GH HA started working again by itself, months later after destroying my googel account and starting over with another one, and I just gave up on it being reliable. Since I have many Amazon units here, only 3 GH minis, and Amazon trusts people to set their own parameters I have been avoiding GH for HA lately. Great games and quick wikipedia connections though.

Google Home asks you to link to your UDI account the only first time you install the skill. After that, google makes an assumption you want the same account. If it is incorrect, starting over may help, or google may never let go of that account address and you may have to contact google support to modify it. Have you built. saved, and downloaded your google home device spoken translation table in ISY Portal yet? This appears to be a good account connection but bad data table linking.

Amazon by far. I have had lots of problems with google that I didn't have with Alexa. Main problem is google wants to apply their artificial intelligence technique to home automation. That means guessing at what it thinks you said and grouping all devices by any common word...like 'lamp' so that a command with a common word in it may affect all devices containing that name. This makes very frustrating HA operation. Google doesn't seem to allow any calendar account except your google one. Try using that on two mobile phones without sharing email. Alexa allows other brands of calendars without complaining. Most of the time you just guess with google as they don't think users should know anything that 'they will handle better than you can' or should I say 'you are allowed to handle'. 'Total control...end to end' was nothing compared to what google controls while hiding it.

The details given are not always enough to troubleshoot a wiring as complex as I believe this is becoming. I also recommend an electrician to sort you out. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I think you would really appreciate the difference between a constantly on guard device that listens to your every whim vs a cell phone that you have to get out of your pocket, turn it on, run an app, wait for the app to connect and then talk to it, maybe after pushing a button to activate it. We accumulate shopping items by voice, stuff calendar event into our mobile phone calendars, ask it for jokes, games, language translations, etc.. etc.. and the list goes on as we find more for it everyday. Now we use our multiple Alexas'a as a PA system to call the grandchildren up for meals. Get one when they go on sale. You won't regret it.

Insteon scenes were designed before ISY existed.

Another set of switches is not based on anything 4 way. It is based on the idea that nobody would wire two sets of 3 way circuits all in the same two boxes. It would serve no purpose having two switches beside each other with the same function. I suspect there are two more 3way switches elsewhere involved, and three 3 way circuits involved. Each box shown contains one end of a 3way circuit as well as a common 3way circuit shared between the boxes shown. The usage of 4 way switches in the bottom photo shows somebody used irregular practices.

I have never heard of a California 3 way. I don;t think these are old timers but rather old 4 way switches 4 way switches will work the same as 3way switches if you don't mind paying $30 a switch instead of $4. @trevorst: if you are not a good electrical troubleshooter you may consider getting an electrician with a good reputation. At this point (assuming all wires are disconnected and hot) I would find the breaker for the circuit. Turn it off and tape it over so it doesn't get flipped by accident. Get your meter out and prove all wires to be dead. Test to the metal boxes. Prove your meter still works, elsewhere. Hook your ohmmeter/buzzer from each wire to it's metal box. Touch each other end of wires to the metal box at their end until you can locate the one buzzes/shows continuity. Mark both end s of the wire with a cable number eg: A, B, C, or C1 etc... You may need to find the cable that feeds the lamp fixture by checking for voltage first and then using a continuity tester across the black and white of a cable (probably 14/2). Turn out all the bulbs to see if the continuity stops when the last bulbs is loosened. Mark that cable or wires say...."L" for lamps. Once you have done all that you should make yourself a diagram on paper of what you found and post it here. Perhaps somebody can make sense out of it and we can continue.

At one time I had posted a suggestion to have a small square debug area in the admin console under the program Tab, that we could place 2 or 3 variables and their current values for debug purposes. The idea was pooh-poohed at the time, and I cannot find the posting now. You could start a new thread in the suggestions thread, and see if more support will happen this time around. It would be nice to debug while watching programs and variable results (even a pseudo flag) on the same screen.

It should be noted that in the Admin Console, Programs must be loaded first before the variables Tab will show up. Variables are part of the program grouping in the ISY.

Since there are four 4-way switches being used for 3-way applications, and two switches are mounted in each box beside each other, you must have three switching circuits involved. The third switch is not being shown. This is based on having four switches at only two locations. This is not a useful wring layout and there must be more switches involved.

If Alexa hears the right words Then ....

I find just the opposite. I have about 30 items in my home called "XXX Light". If I ask Alexa to Turn on/Off any light there is no confusion. However if I ask Google Home to turn On XXX Light, it will turn on multiple lights up to the whole house because every light has the word "light in the name. I gave had to rename most of my device for GH and I just avoid using my three GH minis as much as possibe now. GH can also not support a different calendar fron the original account holder. If I give my wife access to my calendar she can access every google aspect of account, my location, email, and how long I spent anywhere I ever went. After months of trying to get some real support I just gave up. Google always just professed they didn't know.

I think there was some confusion there. Paul asked 'Can you share the program(s) that calls James_Front_Entry_Text? ' The question wasn't about other programs calling the same notification, it was about other programs calling this program. Use the admin console search program find to locate any occurrence of the program name text. This happens to all of us. We have some old forgotten program we forgot to hit save when we deleted it months ago. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Alexa apps love to use the invisible menus that come and go depending on which way you hold your tongue. They drive me crazy. I just got off the phone with Alexa support trying to give a second person access. It was so simple but they don't like to tell you which account they are talking about. We signed in and out of Amazon about 6 times before it started to work. Still some hangovers from having a fake US account too.

Programs have a copy to clipboard option on a right click. Paste here

In the Alexa app and website, at the bottom of the list of devices you will find a "Forget All Devices" and a "Discover"