larryllix

My Netbook, 2.0 GHz single core takes about four times as long as yours. This is based on amount of ISY programs, variables , NRs etc. and the speed of your CPU running the admin console. Mine has slowed down greatly running java apps and is almost too slow to load admin console at all. Total time to edit a program in admin console, about 8-10 minutes now. On a 2.8GHz 8 core CPU this takes about 1/4 that time for about 2-3 minutes total.

If stat.temp < 999 OR stat.humidity < 102% Then $sStat.comm.falied = $cFalse Wait 24 hours $sStat.comm.failed = $cTrue Wait 15 minutes notify Techman "Stat lost comms!" Else ---- You don't need to know what the temperature was, only that temp or humidity changed once per day (or less).

The same thing is accomplished by just creating a change of value heartbeat program and using a Wait for the same time span. Both methods look for a change in value. No temperature or humidity save to variables are needed. OTOH. I recommend v5.

The humidity gets updated every 5 minutes on battery but ISY programming can only detect changes to the value, not that is updated. However if an allowance of say 12-24 hours can be allowed a change of humidity should happen at least once per day. Use SmokeGrub's technique (above) and combine with humidity to reset a time out or time out variable. IIRC saving a parameter field requires V5+

It shouldn't matter if two sources of pullup to 10vdc are paralleled, as long as the pulldown output transistor can carry a few milliamps from each source. It makes sense the lighting or load device provides the 10 vdc supply for a simple rheostat on the wall. Where would the electrician get a source for 10 Vdc inside a switch box anyway? The unit Apostalakisl linked to said it was a 0-10 Vdc output sourced to ground or common. There should no problem parallelling two pullup resistors on a common line provided the polarities are the same. My guess is standards specify the polarity, anyway. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Nice find! Just need en enclosure, a UL/CSA 12-24vdc power supply and a place to put them.

I was thinking of a multiple contact output device...like iolincs x 2 or one of the third party brands. EZxIO?? I can't remember the number. Make a small resistor ladder for on 50%, 25%,12.5% using three resistors. UPDATE: With two output contacts only two dim levels could be handled. 100%, 50%, 25% and Off, four states. With a formC contacts (IOLinc) only one 100%, 40%, Off. If ramping is needed a small capacitor could slide the effective resistance from one level to another.

Is that one single-gang switchbox for all the lights? I was assuming the lights cover the ceilings of a church and would have an input for each fixture, meaning multiple pairs of inputs. I wonder if the live feed from the inputs can be disconnected in the fixtures so that a separate 0-10v supply could be used?

For your application, do you have a cabinet to load equipment into or are you forced into a switch box or octagon box? Is there a central location for all the 0-10V light controls or would the controller have to be in individual locations?

Then don't use the 10Vdc from the lighting device and use your own supplied voltage, observing polarity. A potentiometer only acts a a voltage divider to accomplish the same thing. However if the 10Vdc is live to the electrical supply and the output of the 0-10V device cannot handle the rise in voltage then it's not going to work, or be dangerous. Oooops. Are you saying there is only two terminals/connections for the lighting input and it's permanently alive from an internal source? If so, you would have to disconnect the internal supply. To get a variable resistance output you may have to go to some ardiuno kit/gadget with a variable duty cycle oscillator and filter to simulate resistances.

I don't know what multi-channel means. I have no Zwave and AFAIC Insteon devices have always had multi-channel as I understand the meaning of the syllables.

That would be the only plug-in solution I can see. The 10vdc power supply would have to be an analogue unit without a regulator (good luck finding one of those antiques) and the ISY values would have to compensate for the diode bridge losses at the bottom end. The transformer might hum and/or not like the hacked up waveform coming off the Insteon dimmer. The Insteon dimmer may not like the inductive load either when it injects high frequency switching noise either. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Still sounds like a new router problem. The fancier they get, the more problems come forward. I have three newer style routers and the reason for the latest two purchase were similar problems. The newest one does things like this too. All different brands and they all need cold boots occasionally despite the 15 upgrades and Merlin new and improved, less hangs. firmware. One of the biggest factors I found, almost every summer, is they overheat with the dual core 1Ghz ++ cores. Vertically mounting the last two helped immensely.

The chart shows your blinking LED pattern indicates a poor Ethernet connection. Read suggested fixes from the chart in dbuss's post above. Reboot router, wipe connector contacts by pulling out and push back in. Ping ISY from another computer.

This could be a router problem. I had some problems like that when my router was acting up. Data makes it through most of the time but sometimes you get delays and things give up trying. I have had to power cycle my router a few times where soft reboots haven't worked. May be worth a try.

Welcome to the forum! What frequency do you have the Echo on? Try moving the Echo a few inches. Sometime you get reflections off surfaces. Are you close to an Airport or under s flight path? 5GHz modems must change channels (on most frequencies) if they every hear radar.

Awesome! I love it when a fan comes together!

Not following your wiring completely but it sounds like you connected the fan and lampbulb to the load wire (red = switched) of the KPL. The KPL red load wire should be capped off and not used for the fanlinc controller. It is controlled by Insteon signals only. FanLincs require raw power from the original black wire at the KPL.

Error log and trimmed log sent! Thanks!

My ISY Portal to ISY connection just locked up at 2:00 PM today. If ound it tonight when I got home and my Dots complained that the hub involved was not functioning. Loading the admin console, everything loaded but the message "Initialising" was displayed permanently. ISY Portal app complained ISY was down, also. All other ISY functions I tested seemed to work properly, including NRs and NodeLink. Rebooted ISY to a working system again. That is a first for me. The ISY and ISY Portal just decided they didn't like each other today. ISY V5.0.13C

Only one output at a time? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Onkyo A/V receivers have Sonos built-in in many models now.

With a binary value resistance ladder 256 levels can be produced with 8 outputs. If there is a common place a WC8 could output the analogues to what 8 lights?

There was a thread about the same thing here, about a year or more ago. I don't think there was a good solution put forth. Those controls seem to be oriented towards some studio style controller applications. There may be some transducer available that would interface an Insteon 120vac dimmer to a 0-10vdc sgnal. Perhaps a simple non-regulated power supply (wallwart) but the transformer may not lke the chopped waveform and overheat from harmonics or make noise.

0-10v sounds like fluorescent? I have one 4 x 32 W unit in my kitchen and I have thought about tearing out the ballasts and bulbs and installing a 5m RGBWW LED strip and LEDenet WiFi controller inside the cover. The white light off these WW strips is a beautiful 3000K that always feels much richer than any other white bulbs of any technology I have seen. Dimming goes smoothly right down to 1% and the mechanical switch would turn it back onto the last colour used. or....A switchlinc used but not wired to the load could control the on/off level and colours but ISY and NRs would be required.