larryllix

Now you can install it back in the metal box, still with the cord on it to prove the box is affecting comms.

It doesn't sound like you are missing anything in your technique so.... In a last ditch attempt...maybe disconnect it and wire it somewhere else? then "gone bad"?

OK. With your lack of success I just wondered. The device has to be powered up with the button held in so a time gap with the power on and the button NOT pressed will make the factory reset fail. Unless you have two people or can reach both at the same time, turning the breaker off should not work either. I know factory restting wall switches is harder to do than most other devices. I always have to use a small screwdriver to press the button indeep enough but you are getting some beeps, indicataing you probably are. Sounds defective to me.

Just pressing the button in will not factory reset devices. From the manual Factory Reset Factory Reset clears all user settings from ToggleLinc Relay, including INSTEON scenes, on-levels, ramp rates, X10 addresses, etc. 1) Pull out ToggleLinc’s Set button to create an air gap. 2) Wait 10 seconds. 3) Push in Set button and hold it. Do not let go. ToggleLinc will begin to emit a long beep. 4) When beep stops, release Set button. A few seconds will pass. ToggleLinc will double-beep. LEDs will return to normal brightness. The connected load will turn on.

ISY will still have the image with links for the device. It will re-install them into the device and make a new and clean image inside it.

Not here. Alexa doesn't recognise my city anymore. for temperatures or weather. It did for a while some time back but not anymore. She can say "Canada" to ask for what city, though. She will have to learn about provinces and State though. The city of Waterloo is found in about 13 states and two or three provinces.

I had about a dozen skills. the only ones that come to mind were 20 questions, a drink mixing skill, and the rest I can't remember. I don't think it matters which ones except the more word seraching involved with any skill, the mre CPU time it shoud take to check if your command belongs to that particular skill. None of them were useul as I could never remember the vocal syntax without having it written down somewhere. That isn't going to happen.

All of them Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

I got fed up with Alexa sitting there thinking about every command for 20 and 30 seconds only to ignore me, give the multiple device excuse, or finally do what I asked. I loaded the setup app and deleted every skill except the ISY 2 skill and it works like new with very quick responses. It makes sense that the Alexa firmware has to search through, not only your ISY devices, program, scenes and variables but all your other skills to see what fits the best. I could never remember the vocal syntax of all those cool skills, so good riddance to them. Welcome back decent and cool ISY control, again. I wonder when the new octacore Amazon Echo with active cooling will be released?

Stick a tiny piece of garlic inside.

The thermostat idea isn't a bad idea. I mean we turn out every light at 3-4 AM on an all-else-fails last resort, so why not the thermostat too? However...I wonder if having a false temperature setting is a real possibility and more dangerous of self inflicted pain, than resetting it every night? My newer stats have range limits for remote setting, so that help give a sense of some security. ohhhh... there's that data security argument again... Now you've got under my skin with this one.

I am thinking I read in a SmartiePants blurp somewhere that Insteon Rf is only good for about 15-20 feet module to module. I have a real hard time over 15 feet through my brick to an outside wall SwitchLinc with my mini-remotes. It would be easier to yell through the window. Alexa! ...Tell password O-I-C-U-8-1-2 Unlock front door! ....OK

No. The holder of the patent loses when no security is used and China copies your devices. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

See you looking out your front door 4:00 AM. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Over the last few years we have seen a few people posting they were going to hack the Insteon protocol and demonstrate how it could be done. From a few very smart people none have ever came backand shown that it can be done yet. The White Papers that people incorrectly assume are the gospel truth, apparently are not, and almost every aspect of the protocol is not completely as written, in the Smartie's white papers made available to the public. I consider the Insteon protocol already just as safe in the as even banking security system protocols. The end result isn't worth the amount of effort it would take, for the perpetrator's end gain. Even with the so-called rolling code garage door openers, tooted as such a big security feature. It turns out they have to allow a hundred or so different codes because they may not have been listening when some other device (another car remote) caused the predefined (and well known sequenced) list of codes to "roll". I am of the same opinion as many others. Most security is only a "feel-good" hype for the users. When the encryption password has to be sent during the same comm session, it's all just hype.

Thanks, but not for Canada. I ran a test case and their 9v adapter for $3.95 suddenly becomes $9.95 with a total, inlcuding shipping of $25.75 I found in making up plug together cords, the barrel connector to 9v battery clip adapter was always wired backwards and stated for charging 9v batteries not battery eleimination. IIRC I never did find one that offerred the correct polarity. I concluded I would have to make up all my own cords. Project stalled so far, but I bought stock in a battery company, instead.

Thanks. I've been looking for a series of parts to make these up cheper but by the time you get all the xtensions and adapters the price gets high. This unit apears to be wired for a 9v charger, to for charging a 9v battery and is the wrong polarity to use as a battery substitution. This is noted in several of the review feedback posts. I found this in my reserach before that the sellers just dont understand there is a polarity difference between a charger and battery substitution supply.

You mean all those spare original MSes are worth a lot more mone now? When then good-bye to bitcoin investments and hello relic Insteon coins?

First you have to mentally divorce the modes of the mini-controller with any loads you control. On/Off 8 buttons, 4 buttons, only changes what command codes the mini-remote puts out. Your ISY program can deal with any style. Toggle could be used directly as the toggling is already done. Write a program to detect On, and a program to detect Off codes. You are correct. They could get out of synch if another source of control is being used with that scene or devices. It would only take a second press of that button, in that case I like to use the 4 button mode and detect the signals. Each of the four buttons can now send six commands to ISY. Fast On, On, Fade up, Fade Down, Off, Fast Off. Your programs can still control one device from one button (of eight sides), They may look a little screwy detecting an Off and turning a scene or lights On. With any style command received it is easy to write two programs to toggle a load. A disabed program needs to be used to avoid oscillation detecting it's own controlled load If ....Control ButtonX is Switched On Then ....run program (if) Toggle Else ....--- Program Toggle (DISABLED) If ....Load is Off Then ....Set Load On Else ....Set Load Off Now with my Echoes I don't use these mini-remotes anymore.

Universal power supplies usually only tolerate down to about 90vac. A range of 240vac down to 12vac would be incredulous. I believe that was Stu's point. Electronic items that can live on 12vac tend to be very sensitive to small 12v (5% x V) spikes on a 240vac system.

I would suspect there is ONE resistor or capacitor they change for 240/120 vac models. However, digital CPU based, multimeters do it without switching the input circuitry from uVolts to 1kV. hmmmm... most (I have used/repaired) have one hardware switch ranges to change to the most sensitive scales there, so the designers must have had a problem there too but the input ranges are amazing these days.

It's the new industry standard. "Dreamware" You put out a product telling the potential buyer hows wonderful it is but don't actually state any actual features. The customer has to look at the box or advertising and dream what the brag means, conjuring up all kinds of features in their heads. How does this help the manufacturer? - Features are not nailed down. They can put a product on the shelves, years before the firmware is stable. After all, they didn't actually state that feature was there...they implied it and the customer dreamed it. - customers always dream higher features and quality than exists. - The box can be created for the product without Engineering people having any limitations - Hopefully the product will have better or different features than expected, until the firmware writing company was decided upon and contracted to do it. Just look at the manual in the box.... ......"For more information than connecting to a 120vac source properly , see www.dreamware.com"

If the LampLinc really runs on 12vac, it signifies one sensitive range circuitry, 12vac to 150vac operating range? Very impressive! If that is the actual case, we should be hearing a lot more about LampLincs burning out frequently with 120vac system usage surges and spikes. It's quite possible, but even multi-meters have a hard time with inputs to cover wide ranges like that. SH equipment doesn't have that reputation, with some other equipment. OTOH: Doorbell transformers rated at 16vac have been measured up to 30vac, because it isn't critical and some manufacturer found they can rate the output voltage at 110vac input and full rated load on the secondary. Small core transformers are very poor efficiency and voltage stability with such low iron content.

Ships from and sold by RC3434.

Do you have a good and recent ISY backup?