larryllix

Nice! In the original programs you had a 20% detection, and have sinced removed the logic. What was the objective of that dim level? BTW: I define constant Interger variables so that things look like this. (personal preference) If $sMasterBathFan is $cTRUE Then $sMasterBathFan = $cFALSE You can base logic on the state of another program and avoid the variable usage, but I prefer the variable technique myself. You do get 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 minutes with multiple On taps though. You may want to make a limit on that and a cancelling double tap Off too.

OUCH! A wash in some weak cleaner (Varsol is the old standby but rubbing alcohol may do it), let dry thoroughly without any power, and possibly replace the SD memory card after testing, would usually work depending on how the powered up state affected the wet connections. I would definitely try it but I live in electronics repair for 50 years. I've been known to scrub boards with contact cleaner and an old toothbrush, blow off with compressed air, let dry and power back up many times. LOL but that was mainly for electrical grid, sensitive CPU protection equipment that kept hundreds of $million$ worth of transmission lines safe and lights on.,. not important stuff. EDIT: I forgot to mention to keep any difference of voltage (statics) away from the PCB. This means you don't wear synthetic or wool shirts, you hold the board continuously with one hand while washing it with the other. Then you touch the surface with your body (hand) you will set it in down on to dry, before the board touches the same. Grab by the edge of the board, not the chips.

Have you contacted UDI support? I don't think we I have ever heard of an ISY going belly up before. (turn it over again? )

The Belias programs have been argued, reviewed, and edited several times to get the bugs out. However, my beef is they are very cryptic by using numbered programs and meaningless variable names. My suggestion is to copy the Belias system verbatim, and then use ISYs search and replace features to install sane names, that mean something to you later. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Lead solder was never a good conductor and created problems for high current applications, (power grid connections, protection grounding clamps) . High current through a poor conductor material created the possibility of vapourising the solder and blowing the connection apart. High compression connector manufacturers claim a hermetic seal between metals. Thermite welds are used for some connections and bonds the metal pretty well.

I must admit, many of us would tape the wire nuts, especially if they are outside with dampness, or subject to vibration as in power transformer circuitry. We never wanted our nuts to fill with water, or oil in some cases. Open side always went down inside the boxes to further avoid liquid problems. Some electricians taped every wire nut connector, every connection. I think with the new wing types untwisting would never be a problem. You can get a lot of torque.

I strip mine about 2 inches long, Slide on a Marr connector, tighten the screw, trim the ends flush with a fine saw, file them smooth, and then spin on the cap, especially if I know oberkc is coming over for a beer later, and I may have to leave him alone where my wiring can be seen. I am installing a metal detector for my guests soon. The wire nuts with the directions stamped on every one cost a bit more, but avoids the confusion of two directions for us old guys. I mean I can't keep anti-clockwise and counter-clockwise straight. First they don't tell you which end to look from for the direction of turn, and I have all digital clocks.

With twisting them together before hand I have found half of my connection fall apart when putting the wire nut on them. After years of superior experience I discovered the fix for this strange phenomenum and found that geisen is only half right. What I found was the half that didn't work I did by holding my Linesman pliers in my left hand whereas all the wire nuts where I held my LinesMan pliers on my right hand improved the connection. ...always pretwist your wires the same direction as the wire nut twists!!! Who's the wire nut now? :) Food for thought? :)

Where is Chubby Checker when you need him?

After trying those a few years back, I threw out all my Marrettes Those are just so much superior to use and for function. I never pretwist my wire with pliers. After you are done installing these connectors the wires are twisted fully and hard to get apart anyway. My wife burnt the back her hand on a receptacle with push in connections, years back, when they were all the rage in the 70s.

What is the latest version? I had that problem a few versions ago but not the last few versions.

I just tried my son's Dot and Granddaughters Dot. Neither of them support named timers either. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Thanks. I was beginning to wonder why it never worked for many of us.

Did Amazon actually announce this ugrade?

At this point I would state that if you ever have problems with other appliances/electronics around the house it would be time for a serious look at your electrical system. Maybe just tightening ground and neutral connections. Possibly look into some disturbance protection on your electrical system. Make sure your cable TV, phone, or any other conductive incoming line into your house (used or not) is all connected to one good grounding location, You don;t want lightning disturbances looking for a place to go somewhere, go through your equipment.

I have used another brand of the same style. Those are awesome connectors. I wonder if the push-in ones linked too are approved for use in Canada, Self grabbing connectors have caused many overheating problems in the past. I haven't seen them here but most of my shopping has been at HD and electrical supply houses, where they may not be apparent unless asked for.

They only report changes. If you haven't forced any changes (testing) then ISY is still blind (shows blanks) by nobody telling it anything yet.

I have never used or even seen a fanlinc relay. I find it hard to believe that they could get a 8.25 uf and a 4.75uf @ 250vac caps in that tiny box! Technology has changed a fair bit since my power supply electronics days. I guess I was basing my conclusion on only one live connection to the fan and complaints about motor hum. I concluded a triac dimming circuit possibly in error, further disproven by finding the voltage dropping large caps inside. I take it this is one device you haven't examined the published schematic for?

Larger capacitor values conduct more current casusing the motor to have more power and go faster. Make sure to use non-polarised capacitors suitable for AC application. I thought the fanlinc was triac dimmer style circuit operation, not series capacitor voltage drop.. People using it have reported fan motor hum, classic of triac dimming.

Everything needs to be tested. Even still, we all get caught while away sometimes. Put the sensor on the counter with a puddle of water and tap the button after drying off to clear the statuses.

Have you power cycled the PLM yet? Bad PS capacitors like to bid their final farewell or heal somewhat after a rest sometimes.

Welcome to the forums!! As per the usual database and spread sheet ordering in MS products, UDI has implemented the technique to mouse click on the top line where the titles of the columns are.

One thing to keepin mind is that the backwashing requires fast flow to "fluff up" the resin beads and break down any calcium clumping. A sensor that creates any restriction make damage your softener function, and in the latest case I saw last year, all the plumbing fixtures in the house. Insurance does NOT like to pay for home owner negligence replacing every clogged water fixture. It's mainly at the tee intersection restriction for the three hole fixtures and steam heads in showers may require replacement of all stall tiling to access. It can get complicated real quick.

I would have called support first. This is very rare.

As a matter of inerest here is how I got around the log usage with ISY. A simple calcualtion of %RH divided by a factor of 5 was offered elsewhere but the curve gets way off at one end of the range. Note how this line has been used as an inline If/Then condition to fudge any humidity over 45% ...Repeat While $Variable > 45 This is to bring dewpoint resultant at that end of the curve, closer to the actual conversion curves . I use three programs like this, for conversion of inside, outside and cold cellar %RH humidities to dewpoint humidity readings. Sync.DewPoint.in - [ID 0128][Parent 0101] If $sHouse.humidity <= 100 Or $sHouse.temperature <= 100 Then $House.dewPoint.scratch2 = 100 $House.dewPoint.scratch2 -= $sHouse.humidity $House.dewPoint.scratch1 = $House.dewPoint.scratch2 Repeat While $House.dewPoint.scratch1 > 45 $House.dewPoint.scratch1 -= 45 $House.dewPoint.scratch1 *= 0.7 $House.dewPoint.scratch2 += $House.dewPoint.scratch1 $House.dewPoint.scratch1 = 0 Repeat 1 times $House.dewPoint.scratch2 /= 5 $House.dewPoint.scratch2 -= $sHouse.temperature $House.dewPoint.scratch2 *= -1 $sHouse.dewPoint.in = $House.dewPoint.scratch2 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')