larryllix

The Belias programs have been argued, reviewed, and edited several times to get the bugs out. However, my beef is they are very cryptic by using numbered programs and meaningless variable names. My suggestion is to copy the Belias system verbatim, and then use ISYs search and replace features to install sane names, that mean something to you later. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Lead solder was never a good conductor and created problems for high current applications, (power grid connections, protection grounding clamps) . High current through a poor conductor material created the possibility of vapourising the solder and blowing the connection apart. High compression connector manufacturers claim a hermetic seal between metals. Thermite welds are used for some connections and bonds the metal pretty well.

I must admit, many of us would tape the wire nuts, especially if they are outside with dampness, or subject to vibration as in power transformer circuitry. We never wanted our nuts to fill with water, or oil in some cases. Open side always went down inside the boxes to further avoid liquid problems. Some electricians taped every wire nut connector, every connection. I think with the new wing types untwisting would never be a problem. You can get a lot of torque.

I strip mine about 2 inches long, Slide on a Marr connector, tighten the screw, trim the ends flush with a fine saw, file them smooth, and then spin on the cap, especially if I know oberkc is coming over for a beer later, and I may have to leave him alone where my wiring can be seen. I am installing a metal detector for my guests soon. The wire nuts with the directions stamped on every one cost a bit more, but avoids the confusion of two directions for us old guys. I mean I can't keep anti-clockwise and counter-clockwise straight. First they don't tell you which end to look from for the direction of turn, and I have all digital clocks.

With twisting them together before hand I have found half of my connection fall apart when putting the wire nut on them. After years of superior experience I discovered the fix for this strange phenomenum and found that geisen is only half right. What I found was the half that didn't work I did by holding my Linesman pliers in my left hand whereas all the wire nuts where I held my LinesMan pliers on my right hand improved the connection. ...always pretwist your wires the same direction as the wire nut twists!!! Who's the wire nut now? :) Food for thought? :)

Where is Chubby Checker when you need him?

After trying those a few years back, I threw out all my Marrettes Those are just so much superior to use and for function. I never pretwist my wire with pliers. After you are done installing these connectors the wires are twisted fully and hard to get apart anyway. My wife burnt the back her hand on a receptacle with push in connections, years back, when they were all the rage in the 70s.

What is the latest version? I had that problem a few versions ago but not the last few versions.

I just tried my son's Dot and Granddaughters Dot. Neither of them support named timers either. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Thanks. I was beginning to wonder why it never worked for many of us.

Did Amazon actually announce this ugrade?

At this point I would state that if you ever have problems with other appliances/electronics around the house it would be time for a serious look at your electrical system. Maybe just tightening ground and neutral connections. Possibly look into some disturbance protection on your electrical system. Make sure your cable TV, phone, or any other conductive incoming line into your house (used or not) is all connected to one good grounding location, You don;t want lightning disturbances looking for a place to go somewhere, go through your equipment.

I have used another brand of the same style. Those are awesome connectors. I wonder if the push-in ones linked too are approved for use in Canada, Self grabbing connectors have caused many overheating problems in the past. I haven't seen them here but most of my shopping has been at HD and electrical supply houses, where they may not be apparent unless asked for.

They only report changes. If you haven't forced any changes (testing) then ISY is still blind (shows blanks) by nobody telling it anything yet.

I have never used or even seen a fanlinc relay. I find it hard to believe that they could get a 8.25 uf and a 4.75uf @ 250vac caps in that tiny box! Technology has changed a fair bit since my power supply electronics days. I guess I was basing my conclusion on only one live connection to the fan and complaints about motor hum. I concluded a triac dimming circuit possibly in error, further disproven by finding the voltage dropping large caps inside. I take it this is one device you haven't examined the published schematic for?

Larger capacitor values conduct more current casusing the motor to have more power and go faster. Make sure to use non-polarised capacitors suitable for AC application. I thought the fanlinc was triac dimmer style circuit operation, not series capacitor voltage drop.. People using it have reported fan motor hum, classic of triac dimming.

Everything needs to be tested. Even still, we all get caught while away sometimes. Put the sensor on the counter with a puddle of water and tap the button after drying off to clear the statuses.

Have you power cycled the PLM yet? Bad PS capacitors like to bid their final farewell or heal somewhat after a rest sometimes.

Welcome to the forums!! As per the usual database and spread sheet ordering in MS products, UDI has implemented the technique to mouse click on the top line where the titles of the columns are.

One thing to keepin mind is that the backwashing requires fast flow to "fluff up" the resin beads and break down any calcium clumping. A sensor that creates any restriction make damage your softener function, and in the latest case I saw last year, all the plumbing fixtures in the house. Insurance does NOT like to pay for home owner negligence replacing every clogged water fixture. It's mainly at the tee intersection restriction for the three hole fixtures and steam heads in showers may require replacement of all stall tiling to access. It can get complicated real quick.

I would have called support first. This is very rare.

As a matter of inerest here is how I got around the log usage with ISY. A simple calcualtion of %RH divided by a factor of 5 was offered elsewhere but the curve gets way off at one end of the range. Note how this line has been used as an inline If/Then condition to fudge any humidity over 45% ...Repeat While $Variable > 45 This is to bring dewpoint resultant at that end of the curve, closer to the actual conversion curves . I use three programs like this, for conversion of inside, outside and cold cellar %RH humidities to dewpoint humidity readings. Sync.DewPoint.in - [ID 0128][Parent 0101] If $sHouse.humidity <= 100 Or $sHouse.temperature <= 100 Then $House.dewPoint.scratch2 = 100 $House.dewPoint.scratch2 -= $sHouse.humidity $House.dewPoint.scratch1 = $House.dewPoint.scratch2 Repeat While $House.dewPoint.scratch1 > 45 $House.dewPoint.scratch1 -= 45 $House.dewPoint.scratch1 *= 0.7 $House.dewPoint.scratch2 += $House.dewPoint.scratch1 $House.dewPoint.scratch1 = 0 Repeat 1 times $House.dewPoint.scratch2 /= 5 $House.dewPoint.scratch2 -= $sHouse.temperature $House.dewPoint.scratch2 *= -1 $sHouse.dewPoint.in = $House.dewPoint.scratch2 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Yeah. Dew point is only necessary where you compare two humidity levels. I calculate mine, dynamically, using ISY programs so Logs are not happenin' there. My usage is my cold cellar running at 10-18C degrees, and if you bring in warmer and lower RH% air, very often you will increase the humidity RH% as the temperature drops. Use SOAP RPN, I do not. To do the work for me, I like my computers.

There is a troubleshooting chart based on the LED pattern. Not sure where to find it but Google is your friend. First try a power cycle of the PLM and ISY. PLM gets powered up first for a few seconds, and then ISY. If that doesn't work, try a factory reset. Research how to do it, so you have better access to proper troubleshooting information. I hope you have a good backup file. If you factory reset it, you will need the factory password, reset the location information and then use your back up file.

That's awesome! Many people will have usage for that find. Softeners do a lot of clear water flushing at the end of the cycle but the salt could be a problem for some internal part maybe. Hopefully not, Price is excellent too. You da' man!