larryllix

For the love of Pete....factory reset all your devices, one by one, while you are at the device, and then link them into ISY, following the mwester post above. The ISY link removal has already made a mess of any links inside the devices and a cleaner slate will be appreciated down the road. Those devices will all have had links to the old ISY and maybe X10 addresses as well, that should be cleaned out, as well as the CPU firmware reset fresh.

Another thought. Some Insteon MSes send erroneous On signals when their batteries are getting low. It's just possible this may be an issue here.

Yeah, Last trigger it should complete with any amounts of retriggering. I suspect you have somethng in your scene Offs that isn't working. Test them manually from the admin console. That program time schedule cannot run anything except Else, ANDed with a control/switched line. A control/switched line is never True to other conditions, only when it triggers itself.

It's in a menu under the amazon alaexa app.All units run the same firmware. The upgrades are automatic but are dished out on a slow list basis.

If your device is a motion detector, retriggering your program, a second program will be called and retrigger the same as one program did, cancelling further program lines from executing. A trigger, whether from being called by another program, or an internal If section trigger event line, makes no difference. Two programs will not help that problem. You need to have an MS that doesn't retrriger on motion until the the Waits are all done, or a disable the first program from the second to lock out further action until done, and then re-enable the first program again.

It can only run True when the And Control 'Front House Security-S' is switched On is triggered. Any other time it is Fase and with AND logic, the whole If section logic statement can otherwise never be True.

Nice! Glad it is working for you. Yeah the update on those stats suck, unfortunately. Thankfully, ventilation is not that critical usually and shouldwork just fine.

I am sure Amazon was bombarded for requests for this feature. It will make timers so much more useful. I await my upgrade to their new server bank.

IIRC the thermostat has to correct the status to get the program's attention. The temperature will have to change about 1.5C or 2F degrees. Then when the stat sends the new temperature ISY will check all programs that use it and evaluate your program. If it is true the program Then will run. If possible set you condition to what you want ">=75" and then use the cold and hot air from a hairdryer on it. Careful not to over heat it past about 90 though. Watch the temperature coast after you take the heat away. You have your program correctly input. You're almost there.

There is no Canadian accounts. Amazon never approved usage in Canada and very little is supported yet. Alexa doesn't understand provinces yet. Only a few major cities are supported for weather in Canada. Seems to me you came up with a new feature a month, or so, before many others got it. Amazon has dished out new features on a few-at-a-time basis the last time, so I should expect this later. My Echo and Dot firmware matches the other ones rahnee posted. The internal firmware does not do the voice parsing or phrase interpretations. It should be the cloud software doing the upgrade.

I am using v5.0.10. YMMV.It's been a few years since I have seen the "old" method, but it should be obvious. If you can't see temperatures in degrees then you may be trying to use the logical output contacts.

Sounds reasonable and good to me but you should post this in the Product Requests thread.

This is a hands on learning process... Just start a new program called say..."Temp.high" by selecting the tabs "Progrms" and "Details". Now at the bottom left click on "New Program" and then type over top of the generic name it creates in the program tree. Select "Condition" box In the If section use the pulldown menus to formulate the line (in successive pulldown menus) Ignore the "And" menu Select "status" Select your stats name" Select "temperature" Select ">=" Select "80" Click "Add to if" at bottom Click "Action" Selecet "Your devices" Select "your fan name" Select "On" Click "Add to Then" at bottom Click the "Save Changes" button on the bottom left of the admin console Test it, by right clicking on the "Temp.high" program name in the program tree (left) and select "run Then", checking if the fan started running. Create another program named "Temp.low" Repeat the above but using "<=" and "75" and add it to the If section Repeat above for Then section with a line 'fan name' and 'off' Save that program and test 'Temp.high' as above, checking the fan stopped. Watch it for a few cycles using hair dryer hot and cool on the stat to test function. Don't cook it! Your done! Now laugh at how easy it was. You really can't do anything very bad and delete is a click away. Let us know how it goes.

Do you have a Nest thermostat installed without the "C" wire?

I have never looked at my LED on the ioLink. I only look at the status in the admin console.My closed status show On when the door is closed and the reversal option is not checked. Just looked. It's on the ceiling up 12 feet. Green LED is on, while the door is closed. I have no wiring in the C, NO, or NC, as I don't control my garage door from the ioLink. No real need for it and too dangerous until the All ON gremlins are resolved. The contacts can be wired either way but programming just has to match your status changes. There is no advantage to either NC or NO usage. There is no advantage to LED on when the door is closed or open. It's just an indicator of a closed contact.

All my Echo/Dot vocal commands go through ISY, with it's more supreme intelligence. If I had it turn the stat off, I would probably have a timer and sensing of bad temperatures to turn it back on, again. As it is, I don't allow my Echo/Dot to control my thermostats. I fiddle with them spring and fall and use the automatic feature in them to regulate the temperatures. This took some time to get there, though, making sure they were installed mechanically correctly, without draughts, and setting experimention. In addition, deep windchill compensation, intelligent recovery, and intelligent SETBACK, programs using ISY, helped. ISY is your friend.

I used the N.O. for the ioLink and programmed my own programs with no Status reversal that causes so many middle of the night problems. It wouldn't matter to me. I would just call my status point with the proper logical name. GDO.closed or GDO.not.closed GDO.open could work, also... but a very small open crack could cause my automatic garage parking program, in my Lamborgini RPi, to sense it was OK to slide underneath it.

OMG! Post #3 was all lies!You older than 35 also?

Programs are in the pulldown menu in the ISY Portal. Verbal on runs Then, Verbal Off runs Else Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

None of that works with my Echoes or Dots. I thought maybe certain names for timers may be the answer but sadly no. I tried your "set egg timer for three minutes" exact wording but I only get the generic timer with the response "Three minutes. Starting now"

The echo verb list is very limited to basic words. You'll need a program to operate the mode changes.

Second thought... One program will not work with a dead band gap. Every time the stat reports a different temperature that condition isn't true it will run False. Three states are needed for a deadband, and Then / Else only offers two states. Two programs can offer three states. >=80 program Then code, <=75 program Then code, both >=80 program False code and <=75 program False code (no code = deadband)

Sure. Easiest is two programs. One greater than or equal to 80 deegrees to turn the fans on, and one program less than or equal to 75 degrees to turn the fans off. The two programs could be combined with a dual logic to trigger Then and Else but it would take some thinking to generate the negative logic to run the Off/Else command. Even if the program misses the trigger point either one will still run with the next temperature change send as a self-backup. Not sure what options are available in admin console right now.

You own Amazon and Aphabet and yet you stillwork for Apple? BTW:Your linked webpage hangs my Chrome/Raspbian browser when it attempts to load the video. IE 11 and Chrome/Android works fine.

....and what Stu said but make sure any conductor coming into your house has a good ground wire to the same point as your electrical service. This means phone, cable TV or whatever is connected to your Router. Sounds like it came in on one service and got your equipment, looking for ground. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk