larryllix

Maybe I have told you this before but, you have classic bad neutral symptoms. We have found customer services with neutrals poorly, or not even connected by electricians, to the grid supply transformer and the earth / ground was carrying the neutral current. This causes all kinds of noise in the home, usually indicated by lights that are too bright, flickering, or too dim, and sometimes affected when another load is turned on. In some areas it's possible to have the utilty come in, and place recording instruments at your service panel. These may not be advanced enough to find noise though, but could trigger service personnel to check all neutral connections between your panel and the transformer neutral bushing.

I find any time I have multiple devices with the same first word the re-ask is a problem. It seems that when the following words are not completely clear, or even clear, Alexa will ask again and when given the exact same phrase, is OK with that. But I have found the more successful syntax is ...Alexa...turn on/off xxxxxx. The syntax ...Alexa... Turn xxxxxx on/off malfunctioned about 50% of the time, for me. The end of the device name is harder to parse and parsing would have to be done back to front then.

Don't upgrade your ISY, change your admin console to the matching version. Go to your java console and clear the cache including applets. Also delete your admin.jnlp file. Now go to the announcement of the version you have installed in ISY and click on the appropriate link that will install your matching admin console. Then when they match, you can backup and upgrade, repeating the above.

Your UI and firmware versions do not match.

This sounds like the high medium and low words are confusing the parser next to On.. Try ....Alexa. Turn On Fan Low

Maybe they have provided a method of support for their fine res screens but I see apps (ISY) having to build in custom sizes of fonts and that shouldn't have to be built into every app. It would seem with this generation of unlimited hardware nanotechnology Font size, in pixels, needs to be abandoned. Imagine an app knowing font sizes for every resolution of device based on the old dot matrix printer heads? We are doing that now. Seems like an absolute size of character should be in order and the OS converts it to whatever is needed to display it that big. OTOH the next step would be angular size at your eyeballs and now the OS also needs to know how far your chair is away.

Yeah. That string of confused numbers must be the account or username inside the Hue Hub. I followed somebody's instructions here and the example, to get it going, was to use ISY994user, so I did that. Since it worked I had no reason to ever go back and edit it. I have a hard enough time remembering stuff when I can't cut'n paste text.

Maybe MS could supply screen drivers to make their Windows operating system hardware independant (of their own hardware yet?) like they introduced in 1980 something and other OSes introduced in 1960?

The "More Reply Options" adavnced posting editor has an upload mechanism for pictures. There is a size limit though. I use 10 Mpixel photos reduced by 25% each axis in .jpg format and they seem to be fine but the originals get rejected. Once you upload a picture it is in your media library available in the usual editor.

IIRC as with most of these peripheral devices you have to set up security, at least a user or device name before any other device can talk to it. If a 200 code is being returned then it is accepting the protocol header, anyway, but the problem is more likely that no ON code is being sent so the bulb will never light up. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

You must have put them there. Must be the default name of your hub and you "just got it going" and now it is later.

Been a long time, and I am not sure exactly sure what you are asking but, "ISY994user" is the user name in the Hue Hub that I set it up with.

Here are some of my resources I am using. You will need to copy the protocol things exactly. I use variable substitution so that one NR can do many similar functions so that only a few resources are needed. I don't share between bulbs until UDI changes the way the caching of NR commands is done. Right now if you change variables right after the call the last call may use the new values. Note the bulbs need to be turned on as in the text box. I use three NR for each bulb = On, Off, and Set. Set requires variables to be set up first, while On and Off only require the NR call.

Then whatever hardware you are sending to is confirming that the packet was intact and formatted correctly, and probably understood. I assume this is the Hue Hub.

I don't know where you are seeing this response but it is a standard ACK = acknowledgement. Code 200 = OK. This means the intiator sent a packete of information and the reception end sent back an acknowledgement. = everything understood.

In my ten MS units they are all set about 60-75 for darkness setting. To get a faster response and avoid the 5 minute sensor adjustment delay you can tap the link button seven times quickly to force the MS to send it's latest dark/light detection to ISY, for calibration testing. There is still about a 5 second delay to dark/light changes but not 5 minutes with this method.

Double tap down causes the attached load to go immediately Off without any ramp. Any ISY intervention would be after the load turned off.

A double tap sends a Fast On or Fast Off. These are options in programs. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Most use a RPi CPU for Polyglot. Complete instructions can be found on the polglot website. That can be found in some other threads here. The NR module is about the easiest if you can find a screen shot somebody has posted. IIRC the NR module did cost $49 but is offered included as a subscription with the ISY Portal and is the easiest way to implement an Amazon voice appliance....and well done too.

Most of your programs are disabled and I see nothing to call them as a subroutine either. The enable/disable affects the triggers in the IF section. Without a trigger the program will never run automatically. Your variables must be State variables for this to work. You did mention they are but most of us prefix our Stat variable with a small "s" like this $sVariableName.

Polyglot, running on another computer (RPi?) has a Hue Node to make the devices look ntaive in ISY by installing a node for Hue. It was set up originally as as the native parameter style, so I just use NR for mine with colour tables so the variois styles of bulbs all match colours.

How many programs and variable? I am guessing about 300 programs, and 350 variables, for mine. On my smaller 2.1GHz single core 1 min 15 sec to load admin console, with login. 2 min 50 seconds to load programs. Most time is spent creating variable and scene widgets.

I recently thought about switching my Asus to Merlin to resolve dropping the WiFi frequently but after reading user complaints many have reported it did not help the problems. However I did find one thing that has solved my router drop out problems. With the Asus router you can reserve too much QoS bandwidth and when to many QoS app are running the router just shuts down. It runs much better with the automatic QoS (oxymoron) or just shut the nonsense off completely for everything except your VOIP, with minimal bandwidth reservation, as needed.

I have a Netgear Nighthawk AC1900. The ventilation with them sitting horizontal on a table doesn't seem to be adequate for summer months and mine overheated. This caused me a lot of grief for a long time trying to find this problem. I finally placed a CAO Tag on the surface of the router, and every time the temperature hit 42C my LAN started crapping out. My printer would stating warming up doing it's self-checks and devices would disconnect and heal etc.. If you can keep it cool enough it's a great router. I also found the antennae are not sufficient to turn on the 5Gz and 2.4GHz to 100% simultaneously. It now works much better at about 25 or 50% with much better range on the 5GHz, strangely enough. From what I can figure the signals must be overloading the capabilities of the antennae system. I had so much trouble with this router I bought an Asus to replace it. I thought it was the power supply crapping out but when I would change PSs it would cool down and work for a few days again. I have it back working again now and it works fine in the winter or if I keep a stream of air through it in the summer. It really needs to be mounted vertically due the bad ventilation design when horizontal.

Mine does that very frequently if I have two devices with the same words in the name. It seems if Alexa can't make out the second word absolutely it favours the first one only. Usually saying exactly the same phrase gets it.