larryllix

Maybe MS could supply screen drivers to make their Windows operating system hardware independant (of their own hardware yet?) like they introduced in 1980 something and other OSes introduced in 1960?

The "More Reply Options" adavnced posting editor has an upload mechanism for pictures. There is a size limit though. I use 10 Mpixel photos reduced by 25% each axis in .jpg format and they seem to be fine but the originals get rejected. Once you upload a picture it is in your media library available in the usual editor.

IIRC as with most of these peripheral devices you have to set up security, at least a user or device name before any other device can talk to it. If a 200 code is being returned then it is accepting the protocol header, anyway, but the problem is more likely that no ON code is being sent so the bulb will never light up. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

You must have put them there. Must be the default name of your hub and you "just got it going" and now it is later.

Been a long time, and I am not sure exactly sure what you are asking but, "ISY994user" is the user name in the Hue Hub that I set it up with.

Here are some of my resources I am using. You will need to copy the protocol things exactly. I use variable substitution so that one NR can do many similar functions so that only a few resources are needed. I don't share between bulbs until UDI changes the way the caching of NR commands is done. Right now if you change variables right after the call the last call may use the new values. Note the bulbs need to be turned on as in the text box. I use three NR for each bulb = On, Off, and Set. Set requires variables to be set up first, while On and Off only require the NR call.

Then whatever hardware you are sending to is confirming that the packet was intact and formatted correctly, and probably understood. I assume this is the Hue Hub.

I don't know where you are seeing this response but it is a standard ACK = acknowledgement. Code 200 = OK. This means the intiator sent a packete of information and the reception end sent back an acknowledgement. = everything understood.

In my ten MS units they are all set about 60-75 for darkness setting. To get a faster response and avoid the 5 minute sensor adjustment delay you can tap the link button seven times quickly to force the MS to send it's latest dark/light detection to ISY, for calibration testing. There is still about a 5 second delay to dark/light changes but not 5 minutes with this method.

Double tap down causes the attached load to go immediately Off without any ramp. Any ISY intervention would be after the load turned off.

A double tap sends a Fast On or Fast Off. These are options in programs. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Most use a RPi CPU for Polyglot. Complete instructions can be found on the polglot website. That can be found in some other threads here. The NR module is about the easiest if you can find a screen shot somebody has posted. IIRC the NR module did cost $49 but is offered included as a subscription with the ISY Portal and is the easiest way to implement an Amazon voice appliance....and well done too.

Most of your programs are disabled and I see nothing to call them as a subroutine either. The enable/disable affects the triggers in the IF section. Without a trigger the program will never run automatically. Your variables must be State variables for this to work. You did mention they are but most of us prefix our Stat variable with a small "s" like this $sVariableName.

Polyglot, running on another computer (RPi?) has a Hue Node to make the devices look ntaive in ISY by installing a node for Hue. It was set up originally as as the native parameter style, so I just use NR for mine with colour tables so the variois styles of bulbs all match colours.

How many programs and variable? I am guessing about 300 programs, and 350 variables, for mine. On my smaller 2.1GHz single core 1 min 15 sec to load admin console, with login. 2 min 50 seconds to load programs. Most time is spent creating variable and scene widgets.

I recently thought about switching my Asus to Merlin to resolve dropping the WiFi frequently but after reading user complaints many have reported it did not help the problems. However I did find one thing that has solved my router drop out problems. With the Asus router you can reserve too much QoS bandwidth and when to many QoS app are running the router just shuts down. It runs much better with the automatic QoS (oxymoron) or just shut the nonsense off completely for everything except your VOIP, with minimal bandwidth reservation, as needed.

I have a Netgear Nighthawk AC1900. The ventilation with them sitting horizontal on a table doesn't seem to be adequate for summer months and mine overheated. This caused me a lot of grief for a long time trying to find this problem. I finally placed a CAO Tag on the surface of the router, and every time the temperature hit 42C my LAN started crapping out. My printer would stating warming up doing it's self-checks and devices would disconnect and heal etc.. If you can keep it cool enough it's a great router. I also found the antennae are not sufficient to turn on the 5Gz and 2.4GHz to 100% simultaneously. It now works much better at about 25 or 50% with much better range on the 5GHz, strangely enough. From what I can figure the signals must be overloading the capabilities of the antennae system. I had so much trouble with this router I bought an Asus to replace it. I thought it was the power supply crapping out but when I would change PSs it would cool down and work for a few days again. I have it back working again now and it works fine in the winter or if I keep a stream of air through it in the summer. It really needs to be mounted vertically due the bad ventilation design when horizontal.

Mine does that very frequently if I have two devices with the same words in the name. It seems if Alexa can't make out the second word absolutely it favours the first one only. Usually saying exactly the same phrase gets it.

With 18 of them operating here, I have no Insteon problems and no filters. If you don't want RGB, then just turn on white. You can get JUST white strips and you might save $1-2 on them. A smaller PS might be used but I doubt they are any cheaper. I never turn off my power supplies. I would have to reach behind cabinet or climb on counters to get at the plugs. They are all switching supplies so they draw next to nothing when off. I measured all the power draws for this and posted it about a year back. If you want neat appearance and waterproof, I wouldn't cut these strips into segments. Just bend them around the corners and tie wrap them to the frame. Some rounding will be necessary to not break the PCB inside.

admin/admin should work after the Factory Reset you just did. Try powering down your ISY and PLM again. Power up the PLM first and then after about 15 seconds power up the ISY. Try again. You programs and setting will be gone. I hope you have a backup.

I play with my programs frequently, but in view of the 15-25 minutes to boot the admin console and run the backup, I try to backup after major changes and maybe once per week, if I am in that computer location. UPDATE: OK I exaggerated for my faster 8 core machine. I timed it this time... ... it took 45 seconds for admin console to load, and 3 minutes 20 seconds for backup to save the file, total 4:05 I don't use my slower machine for backups as the times listed initially are just too brutal. Love that XML! I have been caught with an out of date backup once and it wasn't fun.

ISY firmware v5.* has other options to generate a date without year internally and self dependant. However v5.* is beta software yet. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17157-more-flexibility-in-schedule-setup/

Sounds like you might have missed the "Controllers' part of the setup advice.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19913-magic-ufo-controller-for-rgbw/page-1?do=findComment&comment=189572 See new post #199

Two Outback 3.6kW inverters with no problems.