larryllix

Screen shot. Then use the Full/Advanced editor button bottom right

Seconds would maje a lot nore traffic and i.o jams on the ISY. ISY has lots of spare cpu power but i/o is the biggest bottleneck usually. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

The CAI boards don't need anything else. The ISY Rest variable stuffer code is built right in to it. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

I agree. Seems to be a typo. Status should work as a simple logic filter (no triggers) and control / switched works as well but control / switched will always be False and always run Else (depending if any other OR logic doesn't override)

The status On line will cause you troubles if you ever add another line to the then or in the else section. When you change the status the program will trigger again and run Else immediately. No further lines after the set Kitchen Light to 100% (if you added one) would execute. The line isn't needed for your case anyway. You can try it this way to see if you like it. Set the local level to 10% on the SwitchlInc to start with, by holding the paddle down to the lowest level you can get it to. Tap it off. Tap it on. Come back after 10 PM and try it again or change your time frame to test during the day. Don't forget to set the time frame back Have fun with it. You can't break it If Control 'Kitchen lights' is switched on And from 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM then Set 'Kitchen Lights' Fast On Else No Actions

You program should never be true with two Switched On triggers. Take one out and only use one. One of tricks I have used is to set a long ramp of the light with the 100%. Say about 3-4 seconds. Now when the switchlinc Control On is detected and the time frame is met, turn the light on to 10% with a fast ramp on. Actually thinking back...the opposite works better. Set the level so that the local (paddle) light level comes on at 10%. Now with one program using the SwitchLinc control On beat the 10% with a fast On which is 100%. You won't even notice the delay and the local level will not be reset to 100% with a Fast On. You can test this technique at the SwitchLinc. Hold the paddle to get the 10% and then turn the switchlinc off. Now double tap the paddle up. Turn off, then back on with single taps. It remembers.

The login via the ISY portal is the same as the ISY Portal login, not the ISY login. If you have forgotten, then use an automatic password fill-in from your browser and change your login to something you can remember. Creat a short email with the info and mail it to yourself, saving it in an obscure and not obvious folder. Keep a note book in your desk drawer?

When you call another program you specify which section (If, Then, or Else) you want to run, whether disabled or not. "Disable" only disables the triggers in the program, in the If section. Everything else works per normal.

Just a reminder that this ISY Portal button will display the last option you selected in the pulldown. IOW:"Portal Login" or "Go to My ISY" may not be on the button shwoing, unless that was your last selected option.

Easiest and cheapest yet. Put a push rod arrangement with a float at the bottom end and an Insteon door/window sensor at the top end of it. A few brackets with holes and some threaded rod could do it. For the float a toliet float may screw right onto the end. Battery monitoring signal security should be easy and already done by others. To work with Apostolakisl's idea above, a float switch used for sump pumps (and readily available) could do the job. Most just work by tilt position and the wires could be directly connected by cutting off the dual plug/receptacle adapter that comes with item. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.mechanical-float-switch-10-sump.1000668933.html

Being involved with overcurrent protection matching curves for 34 years, I would disagree with the assumption a higher quality fuse would likely damage the SynchroLinc. I don't think anybody can assume the Synchrolinc would be damaged, and the SynchroLinc design makes it very unlikely. Opening up my SynchroLinc I see a fuse, a calibrated current shunt, and some #14 AWG wire between the supply plug and the receptacle, all rated to carry anything that can be plugged into it, except for, maybe the fuse. The nameplate on my SynchroLinc states 120 vac at 15 amperes. No mention of incandescent only or motor loads either. This is likely due to no electronic components or contacts involved in the circuit. Nothing in this circuit is incapable of handling short term surges of 5-10 times that any typical motor would draw. In addition the SynchroLink is plugged into a house circuit with a breaker circuit than will allow 10,000 amperes for a very short period. The SynchoLinc did not require a fuse in it's power circuit design, if plugged into an already protected for 15 ampere circuit. The fuse should have been for the sensitive electronics. Pass the CSA / ETL/ UL approval faster? Who knows? The conductors in the synchroLinc were approved to carry the rated load, and therefore a surge of 20-30 times that for a few seconds, is not likely to damage the conductors for that same reasons given previously.... good conductor metals have a longer damage time curve than any slow blow fuse. Otherwise, slow blow fuses wouldn't exist and this is what they are designed for....to limit the amount of time a particular current that can flow without damaging equipment. It's all about understanding overcurrent protection curves. No suggestion was made to increase the rating of the fuse, only the time curve that the fuse will allow. This is standard procedure and acceptable code practice with any fused distribution panel to replace standard fuses with slow-blow, or dual element fuse types, where a motor load is connected. Many dual element fuses blow at lower currents than their fast-blow counterparts given the same current ratings. They are consider better protection. However, supporting your point. (and a good warning) People should not change electrical designs, on an assumption that it should work, especially putting in electrical protection when they do not understand the potential consequences. There are other solutions for most people.

Mechanical electrical conductors are very long slow blow curves. Contacts and electronic parts aren't making them hard to match destruction curves for protection designers. Aluminum wiring is worse due to it's exponential resistance to temperarure curve. Copper can glow red hot and not vapourise due to the opposite curve style. A slow blow should never be a problem for a piece of copper conductor wire with a CT core around it as the thermal curve of a slow blow fuse is shorter than a simple conductor. YMMV Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Maybe it was you then. A slow blow style of fuse should have been installed for the manufacturer. This tells us how cheap The Smarties are in manufacturing products. Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

Caution that Apostokisl? added in other posts... SynchroLincs contain a wired-in, non-replaceable fuse inside, that can blow from the surge of sump pumps. This would leave your sump pump not functioning at all. I would watch the unit very closely for the first few dozen trials of test runs and avoid usage of larger sump pumps on synchroLincs. I have been running a clothes dryer on mine and although I have had a lot of failures, and it has become totally unreliable for reporting correctly, a fuse has never blown in two years of operation.

You are commanding the light to go on with those levels at those particular times, not what level they will come on at, when turned on. Your OP "set to come on at" seemed to indicate differently, wanting light level presets for when they do come on. Is this what you wanted to do?

OK. some basics. Always, always, always! factory reset any Insteon device when it is new. They come out of the factory doing impossible things that shouldn't even be possible sometimes. Sometimes they work great forever. Sometimes they act up a month later. Some have X10 code installed in them and can be operated by neighbours. Load the admin console and make sure your Firmware and User Interface match versions! Mismatch will cause you all kinds of problems. Admin console top menu | Help | About This one is a very good tool provided by your friend, ISY. In the admin console, displaying the devices tree. Right click on the device and select Diagnostics | Show Device Links table Give it a minute and see the list of links installed in that device. It should be terminated with an all 00 00 link. Click on "Compare" at the bottom. ISY will read and compare what it thinks the device should contain, with what it just uploaded from the device. IF they differ and/or after factory resetting any device, you can use the Restore function to correct any missing or bad links. In the Admin Console device tree, right click on Device | Restore Device. These links are important and there is one for every function, in every device, connected to your PLM. They all have to be correct for all functions back and forth to work.

Good to hear! I think a few of us have been caught on that one! Thanks for reporting back!

Have you checked your device link tables and compared them to your ISY link tables? Have you tried a factory reset on your devices and then restored them from ISY?

In V5.0.10 you can turn many Insteon devices RF and/or Powerine fuctions on and off from the Admin Console.

Look at the time, sunset and sunrise times in your admin console at the top of the window to see if they are correct.

One factor here in conjunction with what Paul and I posted. Have you set your time zone and Lat/long into ISY properly yet? Having the incorrect settings would cause your sunrise and sunset times to be off.

Your times may be crossed and ISY is smart enough to not even try in those cases. Use a single time. The time frame construct doesn't do anything for you as there is no code in the else section that the "until" time runs. Time frames are tricky. If another trigger is also involved, it can work as a timeframe filter but always also works as a run True (at the from time) and run Else section (at the until time) trigger, in enabled programs.

I find only the first word very significant. If the second word is garbled at all, then the first word is the only one that counts. I have discovered it is best to avoid conflicting devices like "ceiling lights" and "ceiling bright lights" with the same first word. If the words after the first words, are not clearly understood then Alexa will report multiple units found.

Most Insteon beep durations do not work as advertised. ISY just puts it out as it was defined by SH.

Read post #2 You can stop any offending programs with a right click and then edit them.