larryllix

Yeah, that's the idea. Not only to get the old programs out of the way, but turn them off while you develop new ones, without interference. If it doesn't work, or you are finished for that session, do the same with the new ones and turn the old ones back on for the night until the next development session by removing the condition or making it "If 1 is 1"

The multiple devices report is a lie. I believe it is picked out of random responses used, when it just didn't understand/parse the name to anything in it's vocalbase. I get the same thing constantly with certain names. I had a lot of problems when I had multiple vocals starting with the same word like. Blue Light Blue Mood Blue mood Blue It seems if the first word is found more than once it just gives up and doesn't parse the second word. Sometimes it seems that ONLY the first word matters and I am running out of words. I cannot, for the life of me, make anything work with T.V. or Tee Vee in the vocal work at all. Another new problem is using Alexa to operate a receiver for radio stations now. Anything with FM, or a radio station name it jumps over to it's repertoire of radio stations. After trying a few it assumes everything I say is a radio station and now I get it playing radio stations without any subscriptions. Some jerk station is named "amplifier" also Didn't happen before! There is some weird things that seem to be changing lately. I am getting a lot of just going away with no responses. I think there may be some self-learning algorithm going on to establish what is noise and what is actual commands.

The method I use is to drop all your programs into a folder and disable it with If 1 is not 1...etc.. That gets them out of the way until proven lesser than what you are doing. The usual way is to copy each program and disable all the originals. Of course you know what may come....delete all your experimentation and re-enable the originals, if it happening for you. BTW; Mine may be confusing for you at first. When I label things, I have learned from experience to make the labels meaningful. Like not calling a program "Failure" and having it run True while no failure is happening. Looking at these from a distance on MobiLinc Pro I hate seeing all my BattLow programs running True, when they should be called BattOK. You should see a lot of logic reversals, due to my Canadian persnickettyness.. LOL

Remember that Boolean logic has an order of operations just like arithmetic rules do. (BEDMAS) AND has a higher order or operations than OR does. So when we do A or B or C and D...it is implied to be A or B or (C and D) This become tougher when you do it vertically.

I sent a complete package over PM to you when you initially posted about LS monitoring not functioning correctly.

I take it you got it working and tested OK then! That is the way I started verbatim. Then I started changing names to something understandable and more sane. After that more mods happenned. LOL I still find most of it unreadable without hours of studying. Nice!

Did you know you can edit your thread title using the "More Reply Options"?

Define a State variable called $sHouse.away Create several programs to control the variable. Program Leaving.vocal If Then ...set $sHouse.away = 1 <----impending leaving Else ....set $sHouse.away = 0 Set up Portal vocals for this program and use 'Alexa. Turn On Away' (run Then) 'Alexa Turn Off Away' (run Else) To complete the task of setting the Away mode variable Program Just leaving If ....HDS is switched On/Off Not sure which way you want it. AND ....$sHouse.away = 1 <----impending leaving Then ....set $sHouse.away = 2 <-----actually gone Else ....--- Now you can write as many programs as you like based on this variable Program Just Got Home If ....$sHouse.away = 2 AND ....HDS is switched On/Off Then ....set $sHouse.away = 0 Else ....-- Now your ISY knows if you are home or not. Program Evening Lighting If ....$sHouse.away = 0 AND ....From sunset ....To 11:00 PM Then ....turn on evening lighting Program Shut All Off If ....$sHouse.away = 2 Then ....turn off all lights stuff Else ....-- I think you will eventually find that you will need an additional variable called say.. $sHouse.vacation as they are different needs functions. I don't set my heat back or HRV off unless I am going to be gone for more than 48 hours etc...

I also use a program to flash a MiLight coloured bulb Red every ten seconds until the garage door closes, and then return to it's normal white colour and level. To be done more easily it takes V5.x, still in alpha level of development, to save levels, and restore thme to a device.

I was involved in calibrating gas detectors for many years, developing my own procedures and records. They were primarily for detection of hydrogen sulfide (sewer) gas in confined spaces. The actual detector sensor elements were actually just fuel cells combining oxygen with it's internal chemicals, and producing a relative voltage. After a year of oxygen exposure installed in the instruments they would require calibration again, and then about every year after that as the cell depreciated. Basically all these did were to detect oxygen levels, If they were outside of human exposure limits, ring some alarms and indicate oxygen levels on the display. Maybe flash an LED to indicate toxic gas(ses). The fuel cells slowly wore out on average IIRC about 3-5 years after removing them from the oxygen proof packaging they were shipped in. It wouldn't be worth it to replace thee cells in residential gas detectors so they get tossed. In these human safety units worth about $3K each it was a different story. The fuel cells were about $80 each IIRC. In later years with more serious safety concern from the Gov. safety boards people, etc. calibrated gas mixtures were used to calibrate and test these sensor more accurately at detecting the gassses the concern was for in the first place. Easliy fooled instruments, but toxic gasses or not, lack of oxygen takes the same initial evac procedures.

I used my ISY994 to setup the trigger levels for my dryer detection. I have set it at 3 Watts so I can detect the interior light and also know if the dryer door was left open too long, causing a cold draught in the house during winter weather.

Control detects the signal. Status detects the last known state from the signals received previously. If you press a button On five times, five control/switched On signals will be received by ISY, Status will only change the first time. Only changes in the watched element will cause the program to run. You can detect a button press but you cannot detect a scene change.

People tend to forget about the case, powers supply and termination facilities that are necessary to actually make use of peripheral devices, The unit you mention Xathros discovered has most of that in place and a troubleshooting screen included. This is similar to the cheap RPi for $30 that always end up costing more like $100 by the time it becomes actually usable, in situ.

The lower currents are for breaking DC currents.Contacts dont like to break DC currents as they tend to keep arcing forever and burn them off. As the contact opens the current arcs and ionises the air between them, causing it to be a conductor. As the contact gap widens, more air is ionised and the arcing tends to never stop. With AC currents there is a break in current flow every 1/120th of a second. Many DC rated contacts will have a snuffer magnet close to the contact opening that attracts the arc electrons, elongating the arc until it breaks. With relays high voltage DC is usually 120vdc. 24-28vdc being normal and usually similar ratings to 120/240vac contacts. 250vac is a class for insulation capablilities.

I created this alarm system with five different levels to make other ISY programs easier to use it. I hope this gives other ISY users the feel for the power of the ISY event trigger handling engine. It can make programming so much easier once you set up a system to handle your user created events with STATE variables It is based on a variable, making the ISY engine do most of the work. The state variable triggers the select program to alert the owners with different severities. To use I just use one line of program code. Set $sAlarm.level = 5 Remember, that my sensing programs using this alarm system, each send their own specific notifications about the devices being monitored. These notifications are only to follow, or not, with a status indication that something is being done in regards to the detected problem. This is Alarm.level = 0. The "no alarm" state and resting position all levels will reset to when done their "thing". Alarm level 0 - [ID 00E2][Parent 00E4] If $sAlarm.level is 0 Then Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' Off Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' Off Wait 1 second Run Program 'Alarm level 0.1' (If) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Alarm level 0.1 - [ID 00E3][Parent 00E4] If $sHouse.armed is $cFALSE And $sAlarm.level >= 4 Then Set 'Alarm scene flasher' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') We don't want normal house lighting turned off for low level alarms like Low Batteries etc. $sALarm.Level = 1 gives a short beep on a few buzzlincs to alert the homeowner there is something to be looked at, and a notification should have been sent from the monitoring program. Alarm level 1 - [ID 00DE][Parent 00E4] If $sAlarm.level is 1 Then Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' On Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' On Wait 1 second Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' Off Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' Off $sAlarm.level = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Level 1, beep, in-house only, for Low batteries, etc. $Alarm.level = 2, longer beeper sounds to alert of more serious problems, and that notifications were sent from sensing devices. Alarm level 2 - [ID 00DF][Parent 00E4] If $sAlarm.level is 2 Then Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' On Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' On Wait 30 seconds Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' Off Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' Off $sAlarm.level = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Level 2, longer in-house notifications only $Alarm.level = 3. Same as level 2 but with remote notifications that beepers are going in the house. Alarm level 3 - [ID 00E0][Parent 00E4] If $sAlarm.level is 3 Then Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' On Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' On Send Notification to 'Text Larry' content 'House Beeping' Wait 1 second Send Notification to 'eMail Larry' content 'House Beeping' Wait 30 seconds Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' Off Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' Off $sAlarm.level = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Level 3, In-house, and remote notifications, $Alarm.level = 4. Medium duration, beepers, flashes all inside and outside lights, noise makers, and send notifications that house lights are flashing Alarm level 4 - [ID 00E1][Parent 00E4] If $sAlarm.level is 4 Then Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' On Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' On Send Notification to 'Text Larry' content 'House Alarming ' Send Notification to 'Text Jackie' content 'House Alarming ' Wait 1 second Send Notification to 'eMail Larry' content 'House Alarming ' Send Notification to 'eMail Jackie' content 'House Alarming ' Repeat 5 times Set 'Alarm scene flasher' Fast On Wait 2 seconds Set 'Alarm scene flasher' Fast Off Wait 2 seconds Repeat 1 times Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' Off Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' Off Wait 1 second $sAlarm.level = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Level 4, short duration, neighbourhood, and remote notifications, $Alarm.level = 5. Long duration, beepers, flash all inside and outside lights with noise maker, send notifications that lights are flashing Alarm level 5 - [ID 0071][Parent 00E4] If $sAlarm.level is 5 Then Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' On Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' On Send Notification to 'Text Larry' content 'House Alarming ' Send Notification to 'Text Jackie' content 'House Alarming ' Wait 1 second Send Notification to 'eMail Larry' content 'House Alarming ' Send Notification to 'eMail Jackie' content 'House Alarming ' Repeat 100 times Set 'Alarm scene flasher' Fast On Wait 2 seconds Set 'Alarm scene flasher' Fast Off Wait 2 seconds Repeat 1 times Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' Off Set 'Utility Room / Util Beeper' Off $sAlarm.level = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Level 5, Long duration, neighbourhood, and remote notifications. $Alarm.level = 4 or 5 notification text sample SUBJECT: HOUSE ALARMING! ${sys.date} ${sys.time12} Lights flashing and noise makers going in house!

Nice! Too bad they are Bluetooth. I have other Bluetooth connections but always try to keep it turned off due to killing mobile batteries so quickly and I don't carry a cell phone on me in the house. I sleep naked. hmmm..... duct tape? Red Green would love it! Now they need a small dongle to go with it like the vehicle units. Better yet, when will under the skin ID chips be coming at every drug store? May be much better profits than vaccines.

Luckily those batteries are claimed to last ten years in LS usage. I have one report missing a heartbeat but it healed again. Now I have modified my programs to not say "Battery" and made a self reset to continue to test the next day.

I followed your logic and your analysis looks correct. It seems you have been doing a lot of troubleshooting and have a good grip on what is happening. The "Leak Startup Alert" program, having all the logic lines will always cancel the alarm notifications. Any time any one of those variables change, it's Then or Else section will run, and restart all the programs called. WET#1-BsmtEnt-HeartbeatMissed can never notify you or even enter it's 12 hour loop. Running another program will stop it where it is at and cancel any further lines of program code. Therefore, The Heartbeat monitor notification system cannot work as is. It self cancels.

It consists of holding down the rest poke hole for about 30 seconds until a certain light pattern happens. After factory reset admin/admin is required to gain access. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Resetting_Your_Userid/Password Your link gives this. Resetting Your ISY? Jump to: navigation, search There is currently no text in this page. You can search for this page title in other pages, or [ /index.php?title=Special:Log&page=Resetting_Your_ISY%3F search the related logs], but you do not have permission to create this page.

In three years only it happened to me only once with 10 MS units. I had just recently added a known technique problem and since corrected it hoping it will never happen again. Simply put,... while the MS signal is repeating several times (normal behaviour) over a few seconds, never send out any Insteon signals from ISY. This means ISY should immediately send out a lamp on signal upon MS commands detected. Use a scene between the MS and the lamp and have ISY only time it off again. There are wiki write ups, from UDI, on this problem and what to do about it.

Oh yeah, I forgot that part. Thanks Brian. The external temperature is sent to ISY (one or the other) but ISY has no reception code to use the external source values and it is only to integer Celsius temperatures (1.8 degrees F)

Factory reset it first. Then check the model number and if it is an ISY99 (no 4) only purchase older Insteon devices that are still compatible with the old version. I can't imagine anybody selling a current model but, to each his own. Some homes just aren't good enough for one. Welcome to the forum!

Yeah, the guys states there is no API and it can only be operated through it's webpage. later he says it is possible but will not release the source for his python code. It should be easy enough to view the source of the webpage generated to discover the API to control the relays via http URL calls.

Very nice find! No mention of contact rating or any API to work with. From the description it may be implying there is ways to direct control the relays but not directly stated, from what I can tell. It serves a webpage and that may have to to be monitored to develop your own. Nice to have terminals for real-world wiring. Nice price but no shipping to Canada.

Maybe you haven't switched the logic in the 2441ZTH to external, yet. One of the mode's selections shows I or E, meaning Internal or External temperature, to be displayed on the main screen. See the manual. It's been a while now so I can remember exactly where it was, but it's in the cryptic code setup modes of the 2441ZTH.