larryllix

Having read that I better check my device list to see if it has accumulated any garbage! I know I had to clear the list out once but I didn't think it was a usual problem. BTW: The "clear all" is at the bottom of the device list in the Alexa app. Dumb place to put an option at the bottom of hundreds of devices. *SIGH* I have been getting some duplicate complaints, lately again. Thanks for the reminder! EDIT: Yup, I had a few duplicates, Some marked (offline) and a few that had old versions of my device names. I know this causes Alexa confusion with it asking "I found several devices with that name". This should clear that up again. BTW: There is a sort by "name" at the top right of the list and you can see whay similar names you have installed to help troubleshoot this dup identification problem.

I kind of wondered and was going to mention that but busy running out the door to do chores in my garage which I have been avoiding. Now it is starting to snow and my snowblower will be stuck behind a tonne of stuff...LOL Gotta' love forums with the confusions of wording and meanings. LOL

That could be managed with programs name correctly to change heating/cooling also. I just don't have a need for it and don't want to risk the security problem having my thermostat changed by guests or grandchildren.

You win! I have never used Alexa with my thermostats. My ISY adjusts them automatically (with draught compensations based on house windchill) with deviations from my programmed schedule and I only have to make a manual adjustment about twice per year. I am also using Celsius temperatures and Echo cannot handle fractions or decimals so it's is kind of useless for me with full degree jumps. Keep trying and best of luck. You will get there.

I doubt that is supported from the Alexa skill. IIRC this was discussed in a former thread. A good request for features to UDI would be have the skill able to set a variable. Then people could detect the change in any ISY program and do whatever they wanted with it. A solution for all devices and applications.

Are to trying to vocal control a program or directly to the device? I doubt the Echo interface supports analogues other than light levels. The direct temperatures I have used successfully were only other skills that connect direct to the manufacturer's cloud support, not the ISY skill. Try a simple higher or lower program. If you are using v5.0.x you can read the setpoint into a variable, increment it and write it back. My inc/decrement temperature ISY functions have never worked for my two 2441ZTH units. Actually no ISY functions work for my newer unit.

Nice! Oh look, first typo I have ever seen from Michel! He isn't a bot!

Can you set the temperature from ISY in a program?

Imagine the topic had raised concerns about problems with basement dwelling in Iowa and Florida or you could just respond to the OP and not increase the off-topic post count more.

You must have a really old ISY model then.... Just kidding. Apologies. I was confused with Rpi. I plugged my ISY in about three years ago and have only seen it a few times, since. Yes the ISY uses a small barrel / coax connector of some sort. I didn't want to interrupt it to look.

Can't help there. I only run about 80 vocals. I was running many more with multiple vocals for each device but that was confusing Alexa, asking for clarification all the time. It was getting annoying. You mentioned "If you delete all". There may be a time limit safety on so many devices at once. Did you try discover multiple times in sequence? Stu may have larger quantities.

Please post example photos of soldering the wires to the microUSB connector.

Maybe try it with the ecobee3 skill disabled? Perhaps the ecobee3 will not allow that many connections at one time.

Fire, smoke, bronchitis, CO2, Radon gas, SADS, illegal Florida? Basements? Underwater? LMAO!!!

I only buy alkaline batteries and they **were** (years back) leakproof, mostly but they are making them cheaper and I have had a few, leak slightly, over the years. Thanks.

I checked that. There is no backfeed. They must be diode ORed in.

I left the batteries in mine. Now I also have battery backup.

See Techman's post #10 for alink to the usual solution. The Vacancy sensor can only be an energy saving requirement and not a safety requirement. I doubt they will care as long as something turns the lights off. If the On process can be manual then the automatic On isn't going to matter either.

Welcome to the forum....again. You don't mention your geographic location. This could make things a lot easier.

Really? You mean we have been paying big bucks for the silly IO/Linc to get a status contact input all this time??? Why didn't you say so before? ...like two years ago? OMG! Awesome!

Exactly and I agree. In a Switchlinc and most Insteon devices ...status comes fromthe dimmer circuitry ...switched ON/Off comes from the paddle. Nothing else can tap the paddle. When you turn on the dimmer from any source the status changes. It sends no switched signals. When you tap the paddle it sends a Control/switched. It has no status.

My son has one of those vacancy sensors in his bathroom. PITA having half an MS. Else section runs when the logic in the If section evaluates as false (in boolean logic) This will happen when a time frame is over (from-to). Since the MSes can only generate a "swicthed On" signal they only generate a True when the signal is received and False all other times. This means when the time frame "To" generates a True the MS conditions are False and run the Else section anyway. In the end the combination says If either MS sees motion...AND the time is between From and To, run the Then section, turning the lights on and restarting the Wait timer. Also, if the triggers from the time frame are exactly those times but no MS signal is present (not possible) run the Else section This program already contains the watchdog timer Teken was posting about. Confused yet?

You cannot detect vacancy. You can only detect occupancy. Vacancy can be assumed after lack of motion (or other) detection after some selected time. It is important that your MS is positioned to catch the most and slightest motion so that is crosses the sensing from side to side. If it is a commercial endeavour I would install two MS units, maybe on walls 90 degrees to each other to be as sensitive to motion as possible. Enable software configuration for the MS units and disable Off and dark only options. Use "switched" for a retriggerable timer action If ...( ...MS1 is switched ON ...OR ...MS2 is switched ON ...) AND ...from 7:00 AM ...to 1:00 AM (next day) <--- this will switch off lights if the wait fails because it logically evaluates to False running Else Then ...turn lights On ...Wait 30 minutes ...turn lights Off Else ...wait 10 minutes ...turn lights Off

I have the other view. I hate the look of the KPL. Although it has it's uses and may look OK in those applications. eg. fan speed control where there are multi-levels of speeds, maybe light levels. Think about a stranger, guest in your house that you would have to explain to them how to turn on a basic light switch! The WAF is not there either. They don't like to be "trained". I think a light switch doing light based jobs is what we expect and can be laied out to work as similar to a mechanical switch as possible. I have a large Gathering Room with one main switchlinc dimmer. That same switch performs 8 different functions that take very little training. That same switchlinc controls, 7 Insteon overhead flood lights, 5 Hue bulbs, 4 MiLight bulbs, and 5 RGBWW LED strips, including colour schemes. tap down = everything off double tap down = turns off all white ceiling potlights, and turns perimeter Hues, Milight bulbs and strip coloured to a seasonal theme determined by the date/season for festive lighting only. long tap down = Movie mode with very low whites and coloured perimeters similar to above long tap up = all white lights semi bright double tap up = all white full briliiance (like an operating room with about 300W of LED) tap up = toggles between TV mode and reading mode (a little brighter over the chairs) This is done by switch control programs that set a state variable to values between 0 and 20 and nothing else. Constant variables help clarify usage there (see below) I use a bank of programs in a separate folder that only recognise those state variable values and set the whole room to the desired effect. I use scenes for the Insteon bulbs and call them but there are many more non-Insteon bulbs that take NR, and Nodelink on a RPi, as well as my own NRbridge.py on the same RPi. Scenes are not necessary but make it quicker and more simultaneous than just programs. When you borrow a light for some alarm etc.. you only have to replace the value in the control state variable and everything is forgiven and back to the way it started again. WAF is high due to just tapping the top of the switch to turn lights on and tapping down to get lights off. If you want more light tap up again. Double tap up for even more light. We use that for dull days and the depression is much less on so many grey days we get. I could mesaure the difference, I am sure. And yet, the same lights are used for movie watching late at night with multi-coloured themic lighting to set the mood. Greazer, the variables are a good start toward the way I would do it again. You have simplified your package a fair bit. Looks good. I do find the tap down to turn things On counterintuitive though. Make sure you use a wait on that one. BTW: Most of us prefix variables with $s.xxxxx or $i.xxxxx. I only prefix state variables with $sXxxxxxxxx and not integer variables, so I/we don't get caught with the huge difference in function later. I also prefix constant variables (integer) with prefix $cXXXXXXX to keep all these values easy and not confused.

I was thinking that too but I think there were other GDO threads going on at the same time.