larryllix

I don't know Gary. I tried to make everything work here. My wife said, "I'm retired. You go get a job, instead!' but.... the latest WAF is "Alexa. Turn on the Christmas Tree"

Yeah the logic can get very complex and you can actually lose strands of hair on your head. I have some logic I stumble on every time I read it again but I know it works and I have worked it out with paper logic, but still it looks wrong. The triggers can stretch the strict boolean algebra also with their double purpose, conditional and trigger, from the same statement. oberkc's logic was my first thought also, but I was just lucky with a sudden idea. I'll brag once you prove it valid, but if it doesn't work...I was never here!

You'll like it. It obsoletes wall panel touch screens, mini-remotes, and many other remote inputs for most applications, except where you have a room full of people talking and you want to demostrate. It will make an *** out you every time with a room full of chatty people and it's severe ADHD.

You should be able to combine the conditions into one program...I think. As long as you use time frames. Other event triggers are never true unless they are the centre of attention, so will not work with AND. If ...from sunset -30 minutes ...to sunrise next day (thanks Stu) AND ...from 5:00 PM ...to sunrise next day then ...turn lights on ...wait 12 hours ... run else below else ... turn the lights Off

Make sure you have factory reset the beast before anything to do with ISY linking. Factory. You will have to have it close to a dual band Insteon device and in the linking mode. Then take it out if linking mode when done. Make sure you reboot admin console as it can time out with no indication except no updates for anything, without any warning.

In conjunction with Paul's comments above... That is what scenes are for. This is how it was done before ISY intelligence came along. Each Insteon device can hold about 250 different scenes. I have a scene that contains all my lights as well as my back doorbell. For an alarm almost every light in my house, and wrap around desks, flashes on and off as well as 4 beepers and my back doorbell. Simple....just turn scene On Wait 2 seconds, turn scene off. I have two other scenes, one for all upstairs and one for all downstairs. If they ever get messed up...just right click the device and select Restore. ISY reigns supreme again.

I totally support Scott's CAO Tag idea. They are awesome! They do their own thing and yet stuff variables into ISY with temperature resolution down to 0.001 degree. Humidity is standard and motion/position on most, but Light sensors are available = ALS. but..... you will need the Reed unit for an attic, with remote probe. The regular and Pro units have a range up up to 185 degrees F, while the Reed with probe will tolerate 256 degrees F. The sold probe is a standard 1-Wire probe available on ebay for $0.99. Your attic will most likely fry the regular Tags.. As an example I put a common remote for a wireless thermometer outside on my deck in the snow and a dark painted block of styrofoam, with a clear Pyrex baking dish over it. It went up to just over freezing that day. When I got home the thermometer was registering no connection. I went outside in the snow to see what was wrong and the snesor plastic case had melted and ruined the electronics. I have an out building with the south side roof slope covered in double wall poly/acrylic plastic. Underneath I have dark painted metal sheets with snake formed 3/8" tubing. When the sun shines the water comes out as steam if I don't pump it fast enough. It can be dangerous with boiling water = steam blowing pipes apart. Caution with the heat. IMHO you will need a passive probe and electronics out of the attic space.

I have two Insteon wireless thermostats that I only use for probes. I have two Venstar T7900 stats that control some parts of my heating system. The Venstar have a schedule built into them with adaptive intelligent recovery which I do not use as I find stat logic too stupid. I use ISY to perform adaptive intelligent recovery as well as adaptive intelligent setback so that the house is cool enough to sleep on the milder nights. I haven't found a stat that can do that natively, yet. This us based on the current outside temperature and wind speed influence on the house's temperature change speed. If the ISY algorithms fail the later stat programming does it anyway. These are read and controlled by NodeLink on a RPI.

Two taps gets the MS back to normal mode.

The link was for an On/Off module. My comment was to compare the price and details with the Smarthome deal, and that in Canada it was not as good of a deal as aartech.ca single units. My closing comment may have confused the point. Here is the result in USD for the On/Off 4 pack deal. Multiply that by 138% for CDN ($243.23) and possibly add HST and then Bond fees for collection of it. Then you have to run to the post office to get it instead of being dropped at your door. With no warranty that's no deal.

As per Gary, above. Put each MS into linking mode and let the writing complete, one MS at a time.

If your MS is included in the scenes you are modifying, ISY will attempt to be write to your MS, every change, inorder to change the link information.

From my experience with HomeSeer II, if you are not a hacker type with no programming prowess, HS would stump you very quickly on these items.

You are showing in Canada. https://www.aartech.ca/2635-222-insteon-appliance-module.html This will be cheaper and faster for you, than SmartHome, even with a single unit purchase, and you will have a valid warranty that you will be able to get service with. The three pack dimmers at aartech.ca is a very good deal. They are excellent to deal with.

Strange!There is no mention of the discount on the item page and the Visa checkut never mentioned any discount for me. Nice one!

Vapourware!Link takes you to $139.99 at staples.com

We have further discovered that Alexa constantly makes mistakes on event times. I had an appointment yesterday at 10:45 AM and despite Alexa confirming the correct time each attempt, she logged the appointment in my google calendar at 2:00 PM 1:45 PM 1:00 PM on three separate attempts, one three weeks before, one the previous week, and once the previous day. This is making the event keeping by Alexa, untrustworthy, and therefore, useless. The times are lied about, and the dates are changed from the initial confirmation, to the final confirmation, during the same creation session. The dates seem to be a problem attempting events outside of the next week, further into the future. Alexa substitutes the same day of the week in the closer week. This has become regular occurrence now and all event bookings have to be checked with another method. When discovered to be incorrectly booked, a second and third attempt sometimes results in the same error.

2:00 AM happens twice in the same night, each year in the fall time change.

We have been finding the event handler making mistakes more frequently. You set an event for a certain date, then Alexa confirms the date and asks for time and description. The last thing Alexa does is repeat it all back to you, for final confirmation, but with a date one week earlier than confirmed previously. This is very annoying and sometimes it take five or six tries to make Alexa confirm the correct date, without subtracting a week in time.

Almost every device I have out of about 75 devices ends in "lights" without "several devices" reports anymore. I did have a lot of that until I took out many shorter forms of the names. I had many options for some devices eg. "Kitchen lights", "Kitchen bar lights", "Bar lights" This seemed to confuse the parsing algorithm, as it also finds the same words in a longer vocal phrase. Taking some of the shorter ones out resolve the problem for me. I found the phrasing "Alexa. Turn on xxxxxx" is much more reliable than the verb last, also. Using "the xxxxxx" works just as well as "the" seems to be an ignorable word. I have also found talking above a horizontal line to Alexa's side grills gets a lot of confusion, as well as talking to the corded side, both make her very deaf.

MS units are not capable of sending LowBatt Off, only On. UDI has created a workaround by faking the Off in ISY. See Michel's post above.

Sometimes antenna angle can help penetrate certain RF barriers.

Bienvenue et bon chance, mon ami!

Typically router signal strength is lower from routers on 5GHz and the signal doesnt seem to be reliable as far away. Try your 2.4GHz LAN SSID instead. I am having trouble with mine also and my 2.4GHz band is getting crowded.

Right click on the low battery node in the device tree and select query. It should be set to Off. Note: You cannot query most battery devices. ISY will set the Off sicne the low Batt signal never sends an Off, only an On. I have not found motion sensors to be reliable sending LowBatt signals. The red LED, on the front, will flash multiple times (instead of once) when it sees motion, but that may not be reliable either. When you do the seven tap Dark/Light send signal test you must change the level each time. If it was dark last time and still dark no change will be seen. You must alternate dark/light, wait 3-5 seconds, and then seven taps, each test.