larryllix

The IR Transmitter I received supported the beep duration right up until the firmware inside crashed and I am waiting for the R MA final papers. Maybe Supernan could make use of it with enhanced hearing.

With the new Dot on the shelves for $50 and many other brands to kick them around some, I figure the price will drop permanently to some lower price. This looks like Amaxon is testing the waters to find an acceptable price level for the public. Interesting times ahead for HA.

As per Gary above but they are more for hardwiring into a control circuit. No user buttons and just wiring terminals, like an industrial application would demand. DIN rail is a fairly worldwide standard for mounting terminal blocks and small electronic components...transducers, fuse blocks etc..

Because AND has a higher order of operation than OR it is logically assumed you are doing this If ( From Sunset + 15 minutes To Sunrise + 15 minutes (next day) And 'Outside / DetachGarageNorthDoor' Status is Open ) Or 'Outside / DetachGarageSouthDoor' Status is Open Follow Stu's fix above

I had the same sentiments, but broke down and tried the Portal. Works extremely well, and may teach you a few lessons about how to make it work smoothly. Even though I detest subscription fees, I recommend to try it for the first two years while you work on it.

Welcome to the forum. Motions sensors for security usually have terrible placement for home automation, so some may be suggesting you have two systems in place. You can draw your line anywhere you like, depending on the security you feel the need for, and that makes you FEEL safe. After you install titanium bars on every window and reinforce all your doors with multiple chains, install a secret backup generator and many other paranoia things, you can always worry about that sniper bullet coming through your window, if you need more to worry about. It never stops. eg. Don't ever use mobile phones to call for help, because the first thing attackers will do is jam all the airwaves. (sarcasm). Don't use grid power as attackers could hook up a generator with high voltage and kill all residents touching a lightswitch. (sarcasm) Securitry warning stickers on windows accomplish about 95% of what needs to, and can be, done. They keep the kids out. The rest may think they have a reason, and you aren't going to stop the determined ones if you have property worth stealing. That is why the stickers are held so tightly to the security companies proverbial chests. They know this factor, and some will admit it. This is neighbourhood dependant. If bullets frequently fly, you need an amoured tank, or move away I know several people with professionally installed systems that were robbed while in their backyards barbecuing. Why wasn't their alarm system on to protect the purse hanging by the front door? There is always a twist, and there is always insurance. Match your needs with your installation costs. Another factor to consider is, when you get that alarm, what do you do? Worry about it until you get home? Calls the cops and have them charge you for a crying wolf? Call a neighbour? If you have a security company system get the alarm, is the phone not being answered really a reason to call the cops? Best two clues? If an intruder is about to be nasty to your daughter, how much time do you have while they call your number and ring it ten times. Maybe you are forced to answer with your password at gunpoint while the intruder monitors? Lions, and tigers, and bears... Oh My!

I do the same using my ISY as a home security system to report intruders when I am not home. I use it for water leaks in four places as well as motion in ten places, heating failure and a few other things. The biggest problem that I have run into is false MS alarms. I have resolved that by allowing one but not two different MSes to detect motion before taking more drastic action. First one I get a notification and then lockout for some time to avoid nuisance flooding while you are away. Second MS within a set time causes alarms and lights. Light sequences can also be set up to appear like somebody walking though the house in the middle of the night. I use a KPL to activate and deactivate the system with a four key press code. That is posted in a thread back a year ago. This does fail occasionally and has low WAF. Usually a second try at code entry does it though. The combination KPL is also used to clear well pump and washing machine lockouts, with different combinations. The usage for that is multifold, and combos of 2,3,4 or more keypresses are possible, but I have a noisy environment at that end of my house, being over top of two PV inverters, so I wouldn't recommend more than a 4 keypress combination. I formerly used a double tap Off, on the SwitchLinc while already Off. Very easy to implement. As you may get flooded with, it is not a good quality security system but it's better than what I had before it.

That logic always give me some problems also. If ( Control 'KPL Buttons / Becca KPL.B' is switched Off Or Control 'KPL Buttons / Michael KPL.B' is switched Off Or Control 'Front Door' is switched Key/Manually Locked ) ​ AND Control 'KPL Buttons / Becca KPL.B' is not switched On AND Control 'KPL Buttons / Michael KPL.B' is not switched On AND Control 'Front Door' is not switched Key/Manually Unlocked Then Set 'Front Door' Lock Set Scene 'Front Door Deadbolt' Off Else Set 'Front Door' Unlock Set Scene 'Front Door Deadbolt' On The top three conditions are always false unless one trigger is being processed. When any one triggers the whole logic becomes true. The bottom three line are always true unless a trigger is being processed. When any one triggers the whole logic becomes false. Reverse the condition and you have to reverse the logic to keep them equal (deMorgans theorem). Not(A or B or C) = Not(A) and Not(B ) and Not© It won't be nice if it rains, or snows, or sleets. = It won't be nice if it rains, and it won't be nice if it snows, and it won't be nice if it sleets.

hmmmm.. something tells me that logic doesn't work. If I use ... Control XXXX is NOT switched off it will run the else section when an Off control is received. However if use status ....Status is NOT off won't it run the Else section when the status if NOT off? I don't think that applies the same logic but I would try ...Status >= 1% for each line and see what happens. I know there is some discrepancies between some devices using "0%" or "Off" not triggering properly but I can't remember which devices were involved, or the correct logic, that has to be used in each case. BTW; You need a Wait in the then section before turning on the LED, especially if any of these lights are turned on by a battery operated Insteon device. I just had my first ALL ON in three years and the cause is felt to be just that...a battery operated Insteon device sending out multiple signals, like they do, and a program turning on a KPL LED simultaneously. yeah it was 2:15 AM and a few dozen lights went full on. WAF was real low when it woke her up.

You have a line ....Wait 4 minutes in each program, that has nothing to wait for.

What mode are you using for your KPL button? Most use non-toggle On mode so that the operation and control of the LED is more straightforward. It sounds like you have toggle mode enabled.

Bingo. That would be my opinion, also.

In your first program, when activated, it turns your light on dim...now it is not off, causing the else section to run and your first program to become False. As an alternative you can just detect the dim signal from the switchlinc and run the scene. You can shut them all off with a double tap off which causes a more universal feeling to the operations for users. Long tap down for dimming. Single tap down for Off Double tap down for more Offs I try to keep this fairly consistent throughout my house for better WAF and my own memory. The same applies for tap up. The programs become a lot simpler and do not require any status checking anywhere.

Your motion sensing device may be sending Off signals. This should be blocked usually. Use control xxxx is switched On to retrigger your timer every time motion is sensed. Using status may cause problems where your MS has a dead time and your wait time turns the light off. Also status will run your else, every time the MS times out. Using control allows your program to control it better without ever running the else section. The retrigger time on your motion sensor may have a dead time in it that can cause you dead time spots.

Welcome to the forum!! You don't say what platform you want it for. I assume this is for an iOS device.

What firmware and UI version are you using?

Try turning off one set before each trail and then test. Rotate the off set tested for each trial. Run several for each unit test. There may be a problem with a warm ballast/circuitry vs. a cold one also so length of time on may be a factor. This could help you identify which one is making the worst noise and the problem or one of the problems. Try a movable dual band unit right beside or on the same circuit as the outdoor lighting that is the problem to attempt to boost the signal at that point in the wiring. One of those medium base light splitters 1 male:2 female, comes to mind, with a med.base to plug in adapter and an Insteon plug-in module comes to mind for testing.

That usually indicates communication signal problems. Are some HID lamps?

I beleieve I followed the process laid out in the ISY wiki and it wasn't too bad excpet for the "what account are they referring to' in many places. When multiple accounts and places are involved every mention of an account has to be specified in complete detail. Yeah, typists lament.

Not ISY related! My wife tried this four times and I tried several additional times, also. Alexa confirms the date interim as Nov. 11th, when it asks time, or other clarification, but when you say 11:00 AM it confirms with November 4th, every time. Wife called me over and demonstrated this several times more, and then I tried it myself. Sometimes it confirms the date November 11th, when it asks for more information and yet everytime it finalises with ..."OK , you have an event on Friday November 4th, at 11:00 in the morning called Test Appointment. Right?" Try it and you can always say "No' upon the final confirmation. We have had suspected wrong appointments from Alexa, before, but never one we could repeatedly observe making a mistake.

Big task to take on. What is an ISY Portal? What is an Amazon Alexa account? I use the supplied app as the only way I know to make adjustments to the Alexa setup. The acount allows me to download the app if I am located in the right goegraphic location. Not to be be nasty but people familiar with a process usually have a hard time explaining things to newbies, that seem so obvious to them, once they have done them. Big job.

Have you tested your lights via manual control from the ISY admin console?

So you just remembered what version was on it previously but there is no notification. I thought maybe I had missed something ....again. [emoji3]

How are you aware of a firmware update?

Yeah. I am expecting an answer back within 48 hours effective over a week ago.