larryllix

Alexa has to understand and speak 50% French words to be allowed into Canada. N'est ce pas?

Then don't use another skill. Just use the ISY skill to command your TV via ISY programs. "Alexa. Turn on news channel" You would have to name a few programs to convenient functions and channels though.

You really need the technical information on your heat pump unit showing connections. The B wire usually would go into the B terminal. This is usually a control wire that switched the compressor system from A/C to heating and can operate in either polarity to call for heat depending on your system. It appears you need to connect 24vac common wire in the air handler to supply power to the stat. A black wire is the usual colour for the 24vac common but I don't see one. According to your trane stat manual somebody has used a blue wire = B for the common 24vac. W wire is usually white and should be the first stage of your heating. This is mostly just a guess as no wiring information for your heat pump or wiring information at the air handler is shown.

Welcome to the forum! W2 is the second stage of heating. Y2 is the second stage of cooling. This appears you have a heat pump system and I doubt the Insteon stats will handle this properly Many thermostats cannot handle heat pump switching properly as the heat is not usually staged but the backup heat may be run in lieu of the heat pump. Staging means they will run together, when needed. The Venstar T7900 has a heat pump option to accomplish this. The T7900 requires an RPi or computer on 24 x 7 running NodeLink (free) to get complete access from/to ISY. You have to know if you have a heat pump as those other B, O wires control the direction the system runs for heat or A/C. B should not be hooked to the R or Rc incoming live terminals. From the looks of the 2441TH terminals it will not operate a heat pump.

At least the dime bags of lettuce are only 10 cents.

I know and his "dawn" is a lot later than mine too.

You guys carry guns so why do you need so many more lawyers than Canuckistan? I got zapped once with a tape measure, behind a freezer (blind spot), and the tape caught the live side of the plug pin. It wasn't as bad as the one off a charged 26" CRT tube though.

I have just the HA gadget for you then https://kithub.cc/safecast-first-responders/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PPCFirstResponderLP&gclid=CjwKEAjw34i_BRDH9fbylbDJw1gSJAAvIFqUlX94Ch5t-BAlYpuKgqyoFHfxUpoNcJCbfyH0Y1gKMRoCMbvw_wcB

Well I won't dangle any carrots in front of you. You might snap! Glad you didn't mention the GMO scam. You running some kind of high pH input on your ISY? ... HA!

Careful with those pop tarts. They can be dangerous. My twelve year old son decided to make his own breakfast, years back. You put the Pop_tart down twice and the icing becomes a sticky tar-like goo that adheres to skin. Son ended up in the hospital with second-degree burns to most of one hand. We didn't beleiev it and over a few tests I became a believer. One toasting, nice icing. Two toast cycles they become sticky tar. I know you are not really eating Pop-tarts was a joke but heed the warning. Company admitted knowledge of it, but got real serious about not persuing legal action. But now that Cheerios have gluten-free oat cheerios out, they have pumpkin spice, chocolate, apple cinnamon and a few other flavours to enhance your ADHD.

I guess it's not for me then. When I pay money for something I like to see an object that I own, not rent. I only pay about $3 per day for electricity I only pay about $2 per day for natural gas to heat my house I only pay about $3 per for satellite TV I only pay about $3 per day to get some exercise at a gym I only pay about $2 per day for gasoline to drive my car I only pay about $8 per day to own a car I only pay about $2 per day to maintain my car working I only pay about $6 per day for insurance I only pay about $5 per day for coffee and soft drinks I only pay about $3 per day for phones I only pay about $2 per day for Internet service I only pay about $15 per day for property taxes I only pay about $10 per day for a yearly vacation I only pay about $3 per day for clothes on my back I only pay about $30 per day for food to eat I only pay about $3 per day for hobbies and entertainment I only pay about $10 per day to insure my car, home and lives I only pay about $2 per day for licenses and taxes to drive and exist I only pay about $5 per day for health care I only pay about $0.50 per day for haircuts The list goes on with "for only pennies per day" that somehow adds up to about $60-80K per year. I don't typically pay for software that only lasts for a short time. Been there, done that with many packages running $3-600 that promised forever but it was a lie when they changed their minds.

Check the UDI website sales page from your ISY menu options at the top of the Admin Console.

LOL. Yeah my old RCA TV just used simple iR frequencies so the fancy codes could maybe trigger a protocol, that simple.

For the iR types maybe. I somehow doubt these would use standard iR coding formats though. I had an RCA TV that used it's own format years back and no universal iR remote would ever work with it and most of the manual stated that too. The learning types of universal iR remotes would always error out, because they didn't use the coding technique that has become standard for modern iR control.

I thought about this many times. The best idea I have come up with (not implemented) is to wire them all to a 3v adapter and pulg it into an Insteon On/Off module. Many are now remote controlled and will not come on by toggling the dc voltage to them.

Electricity does not travel at the speed of light. electrons travel at the speed of light. But like the water in a house travels a x feet per second, and can take a full minute to go through the hose, the water coming out of a hose is instantaneous when you turn the valve on, with a full hose. Electrical conductors are full of electrons and when a new one tries to push it's way into the conductor, an existing one pops out the other end, at the same time. Resistance is futile, You too, will be assimilated.

Mine have taken 3-12 tries to link properly. Congrats on being stubborn!

Just pre-ordered 4 Black and 2 white Echo Dots. Christmas gifts for kids and 6 year olf granddaughter. She was emphatuated with our Echo, messing up our shopping lists, and constantly playing kids music exerpts! These things are also great for kids going to school to check their math and other learning interests, like geography and science.

LOL. I have been spending my ISY lifetime trying to get rid of keys and fobs and tracking devices and use ISY for home automation. Yeah, there is still some remote control in me, 'cause I didn't think out the automation logic enough to handle every contingency yet. Until then we need Fobs and work-arounds. No Insteon but many other systems that can patch into ISY. I have quite a few X10 units in a box from the 80s. I did use some up until about this year. For a vehicle you want a longer range too. Insteon RF hasn't been that good on some distances for me.

That depends what is on the bed!

You are right. My mini remote is larger than my keyfob too. Who has a keychain anymore? Who carries any keys for a vehicle or their house locks? Welcome to the 2st century. OTOH: Who pushes buttons on a keyfob, or even takes it out of their pocket until they hang their pants up at night? Wife never takes hers out of her purse.

I agree with giesen above. This may change depending on experience in two years. UDI hasn't made a habit out of gouging the user base in the past..

Just be very careful of the sticking to the ceiling drywall. The ceiling paint wad probably not cured when the ring was compressed into it and will tend to tear the surface paper back.

AC power doesn't change the way the Insteon wireless updates except for humidity uses a faster update time cycle.

This can be done by modifying the wiring in the both light switch boxes and the last fixture. The last fixture wiring changes must be done to not violate wiring colour codes badly. If you have potlights they almost always can be unscrewed from their racking mechanism with screws from the inside of the can, pulled down out of the drywall/frame on the wiring and the box lid snapped open. The white neutral would have to be continued by connecting to the last fixture white and the black and red reversed to how they are connected now. then you colours should be correct to the tail end switchlinc. The entrance switchlinc would need to be arranged to meet standard wiring practice colours with black connected to continue it and red on the switchlinc capped off. If you can get the last can pulled down to access the wiring then I am sure it can be sleuthed from there and made to work, provided the wiring turns out to be as pictured posted.