larryllix

Operate turns on any lights I give it but not off. Seems it is meant to be a toggle function. Open/close and On/Off works for any light program, device scene for me.

What computer OS are you running?

The Network Resource module allows many different Ethernet based protocols to be sent out only. Basic ISY can send eMail. NR also allows logging files to be created inside ISY from the eMail function call. With the REST interface built into ISY, variables, programs, devices, and scenes can be controlled and read externally. State variables cause program executions to trigger when they change value. Integer variables do not saving ISY logic engine cycles. Both variable types can be used for conditional value logic.

I thought about the same thing with an On/Off plug-in module instead of a single-band IO/Link that has such a limited output and input voltage range.

I found out quite early that "Turn Lights On" was very intermittent. I trained myself to always say "Turn On xxxxx" now and it is much better. I figure the parsing finds the On/Off first and makes more intelligent assumption about the device then.

I only use the GD status via IOLink. I didn't see the need to be able to close it for afar, yet. X10 was put into the IO/Linc of the factory QC tested it and can react to noise as it is very insecure. Always factory reset your devices before personal usage! Ignoring warnings given to me, in the past, I have had Insteon devices do things they shouldn't be capable of, before factory resetting them.

I found many of the softer sylables are often not heard. Frequently I find "Alexa, turn on TV Lights" ....I have more than one device with that name! Then I say the same thing again and it is no problem. All my lights and light scene programs have "lights" as the last word. This seems to be a big problem constantly sometimes and other days it never misses. Environmental noise or cloud congestion? We are getting to like "Alexa, add cleaning compound from Canadian Tire" and have it show up in our both our cell phone lists within a second.

If the IO/Link is sensitive to X10 commands from a neighbour would they show up in the ISY logs? Was it factory reset before linking to ISY? Do you have any X10 devices?

Nice! May your balls not be kicked by others!

Yeah, I have installed a few Plug-ins for the repeater effects to strengthen my Insteon network, Eventually electrical uses can be found for these key units, like freeze heater backup for the utility room etc.

Use "control/switched".If they are not responding then you have comm problems. It sees the light on command from the switchlinc and can be retriggered. Status only has one signal when it first occurs and won't retrigger. If . . Switchlinc is switched ON Then . . Wait 4 hours . . Set SwitchLinc Off Else ---- I use a clean-up program at 4:00 AM every day that sends on Off to every device in the house with Wait 2-3 seconds between each for better success.

Thanks Gary. So the biggest part is going to be the "splitter", being, in your case, an Ethernet router(s) or switch(es) with so many ports.. This is going to take some electronics "savvy" to get the probes and boards and PS wiring together. For a wired solution with less "splitter" cost, I think I would prefer the 1wire sensor network string into one PCB with Ethernet.. For a non-hobby plug'n play type solution, I prefer the CAO Tags with such high accuracy, reliability, and distance, except for the battery aspect. The CR2032 are 3 for $1 so that is cheap enough. The battery in the one in my "cook-house" vehicle glove box has only lasted about 8 months now and will need to be replaced shortly. The other three in cooler spots show no signs of wear yet and will last years.

I use CAO Tags for the same but... what common hardware/hub/software is needed for the ardiuno technique you are using?

You could do something with isolating the On portion of your idea but not the Off. Wire the Kitchen to the SwitchLin Set the SwitchLinc level at 0-1% brightness. When you single tap the kitchen light would turn to 1%, and a program detecting it woul turn on the Dining Room Switchlinc When you double tap the Kitchen light would go on full, and no program would affect the Dining Room light. Off? Can't figure a way to do that one nicely. One tap would turn off Kitchen and two taps would turn off both using a program for the Dining Room light control.

The only thing I have found with USB cables is that to get the wires into that itsy-bitsy timey mocroUSB connector the wires inside the cables are about #30 AWG stranded wire. They are very hard to terminate and break very easily. If you get a WallWart type with a heavier cable on it the wires are much easier for you to strip and terminate in the terminals, let alone have some physical strength. Wire colours can be any colour inside the cable. Use a meter to determine polarity. As I stated, except **both** wired and wireless Insteon thermostats are cheap looking, cheap operation, and fairly cheaply prices.

I don't see any mention of SwitchLincs from Teken???The bulb problem was a halogen lamp plugged into something. SwitchLinc is a built in wall switch. SwitchLinc was introduced by a hit'n run and doesn't seem correct. EDIT: My mistake. The bulb thread OP did use a very early version of a SwitchLinc to control his outlet.

Good points. Any lower current rated wallwarts are usually analogue transformer types now and produce heat.Almost every switching type adapter is a minimum of 10000mA now. USB was initially spec'ed as max and current limited at 500 mA but now the sky is the limit on those poor little contacts in that itsy-bitsy microUSB plug. Cut it off.

Any USB charging system will do the job. Sorry I try to avoid shopping from American online stores due to shipping scams they run but here are some I have found. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/AC-100-240V-0-3A-DC-5V-2A-EU-US-Plug-USB-Power-Supply-Adapter-Charger-HS-/111710348261?var=&hash=item1a0274a3e5:m:m5_zZY58d21rPsm8r6-n4eg http://www.ebay.ca/itm/US-5V-AC-DC-Power-supply-Adapter-For-G-Box-MX-2-M8-MXQ-MX3-Android-XBMC-TV-Box-/281932052443?hash=item41a475b7db:g:hgkAAOSwLzdWTus1 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/USB-Switching-Power-Supply-Adapter-Charger-AC-100-240V-DC-5V-2A-10W-US-EU-Plug-/361704993157?var=&hash=item54374c3185:m:mWQPBDxSif1tWMTvpj060AA https://www.amazon.ca/HDE-Adapter-External-Electronic-Charger/dp/B00DTTROY4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473620040&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+adapter http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Sale-DC-5V-2A-2000mah-AC-Power-Adapter-Wall-Charger-for-Android-Tablet-PC-MID-S-/171854362635?hash=item280351780b:g:94AAAOSwPcVVoHab https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=5v+adapter Mine were from old wireless phone handsets.

My 2441ZTH units (I have two) report temperatures in a one byte (8 bits) value 0 - 255 value = 0.0 - 127.5 degrees C. There is no negative values as it is not possible in the protocol. I don't think 0.5F resolution is possible, only 0.5C resolution. Despite forced sending testing showing about 1.5C change before sending, ISY always seems to be accurate to sensor temperature. I wouldn't use an Insteon thermostat for main HVAC in my home. I use them for sensing probes, backup = anti-freeze protection, and humidity control ventilation. Non-critical applications. Stusviews uses them for fireplace control.

Please read post #2 again. You are asking all the same questions I have already answered there. Thanks

Yes. It has to be a State variable and it will trigger program every time it changes. You don't read the temperature from the stat. It tells you (ISY) the temperature when it changes. If AC stat temperature > -999 Then set $sVariable = AC Stat, Temperature set $sVariable init to AC Stat Temperature <---survives power failures Else -- If $sVariable <= 20.0 <---stat provides hysteresis Then turn heater On wait 100 hours turn heater Off Else turn heater Off

I have to assume you mean the 2441ZTH. I had to bring it through the back also. I used some small hex nuts to raise the stat off the wood wall to accommodate that. I used a 5v adapter to run it and left the batteries in. They don't appear to get used when the AC is on and no backfeed into the batteries, is apparent. It works well. I cut the plug off and used the bare wire into the terminals in the stat. ISY does not retrieve the temperature from this device. Insteon is not a polling system from the master. Insteon is a report by exception system from the remote device. When the temperature changes about 1.5 C the stat sends a new temperature. ISY is blind after a power cycle until the stat reports a change. Many don't like this. You can memorise the temp. in a variable easily with v5. Now use the variable in your programs. Humidity is sent on a regular timed basis. IIRC about 1 minute for AC and 5 minutes for batteries. The 2441ZTH is not too bad, lacking fancy features, and looks, but the updating has to be understood or frustration results from users.

In a previous house I used a few X10 switched outlets. Most burned out running cabinet lighting, and had to be replaced, poor quality. After selling my home and having to take them all out, I never purchased any for my Insteon system, when Plug-in modules are so easy to unplug, repurpose, and take with you. I would not use smart outlets again and I wouldn't want to scare prospective buyers away when selling next time. After a previous home sale I removed all my X10 switches, worrying that the buyer would demand them back. The day of the closing inspection the woman walked right to a cluster of switches where many X10 switches were, and said, "What happened to the switches?" I told her they were part of a security system that wasn't operable anymore (BS) "Well, Good! I thought I was going to have to get an electrician to replace them all". This house I will have to worry about prospective buyers being scared off by an alternative PV solar energy system.

That what the power on feature was designed in for, regular switch operation, same as the X10 modules were. This is so people don't have to use some app on a cell phone, but rather can enter a room, and flick the switch off and then back on again, to get normal bright white lighting. This way, real people, without the neck problems, can use them too. They didn't make the lights come on with a power outage as a feature. It was a bad side effect they didn't know how to avoid without more engineering time. The price is already ridiculous. My Hue bulbs run off an Insteon SwitchLinc Dimmer.

The accident was more from a user having an unsafe device that shouldn't have been on the market. and a few other factors. Then tried to blame it on technology. It was an attention getter. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17477-insteon-almost-burned-my-house-down-now-isy-problem/?hl=%2Bburned+%2Bhouse