larryllix

Use "control/switched".If they are not responding then you have comm problems. It sees the light on command from the switchlinc and can be retriggered. Status only has one signal when it first occurs and won't retrigger. If . . Switchlinc is switched ON Then . . Wait 4 hours . . Set SwitchLinc Off Else ---- I use a clean-up program at 4:00 AM every day that sends on Off to every device in the house with Wait 2-3 seconds between each for better success.

Thanks Gary. So the biggest part is going to be the "splitter", being, in your case, an Ethernet router(s) or switch(es) with so many ports.. This is going to take some electronics "savvy" to get the probes and boards and PS wiring together. For a wired solution with less "splitter" cost, I think I would prefer the 1wire sensor network string into one PCB with Ethernet.. For a non-hobby plug'n play type solution, I prefer the CAO Tags with such high accuracy, reliability, and distance, except for the battery aspect. The CR2032 are 3 for $1 so that is cheap enough. The battery in the one in my "cook-house" vehicle glove box has only lasted about 8 months now and will need to be replaced shortly. The other three in cooler spots show no signs of wear yet and will last years.

I use CAO Tags for the same but... what common hardware/hub/software is needed for the ardiuno technique you are using?

You could do something with isolating the On portion of your idea but not the Off. Wire the Kitchen to the SwitchLin Set the SwitchLinc level at 0-1% brightness. When you single tap the kitchen light would turn to 1%, and a program detecting it woul turn on the Dining Room Switchlinc When you double tap the Kitchen light would go on full, and no program would affect the Dining Room light. Off? Can't figure a way to do that one nicely. One tap would turn off Kitchen and two taps would turn off both using a program for the Dining Room light control.

The only thing I have found with USB cables is that to get the wires into that itsy-bitsy timey mocroUSB connector the wires inside the cables are about #30 AWG stranded wire. They are very hard to terminate and break very easily. If you get a WallWart type with a heavier cable on it the wires are much easier for you to strip and terminate in the terminals, let alone have some physical strength. Wire colours can be any colour inside the cable. Use a meter to determine polarity. As I stated, except **both** wired and wireless Insteon thermostats are cheap looking, cheap operation, and fairly cheaply prices.

I don't see any mention of SwitchLincs from Teken???The bulb problem was a halogen lamp plugged into something. SwitchLinc is a built in wall switch. SwitchLinc was introduced by a hit'n run and doesn't seem correct. EDIT: My mistake. The bulb thread OP did use a very early version of a SwitchLinc to control his outlet.

Good points. Any lower current rated wallwarts are usually analogue transformer types now and produce heat.Almost every switching type adapter is a minimum of 10000mA now. USB was initially spec'ed as max and current limited at 500 mA but now the sky is the limit on those poor little contacts in that itsy-bitsy microUSB plug. Cut it off.

Any USB charging system will do the job. Sorry I try to avoid shopping from American online stores due to shipping scams they run but here are some I have found. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/AC-100-240V-0-3A-DC-5V-2A-EU-US-Plug-USB-Power-Supply-Adapter-Charger-HS-/111710348261?var=&hash=item1a0274a3e5:m:m5_zZY58d21rPsm8r6-n4eg http://www.ebay.ca/itm/US-5V-AC-DC-Power-supply-Adapter-For-G-Box-MX-2-M8-MXQ-MX3-Android-XBMC-TV-Box-/281932052443?hash=item41a475b7db:g:hgkAAOSwLzdWTus1 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/USB-Switching-Power-Supply-Adapter-Charger-AC-100-240V-DC-5V-2A-10W-US-EU-Plug-/361704993157?var=&hash=item54374c3185:m:mWQPBDxSif1tWMTvpj060AA https://www.amazon.ca/HDE-Adapter-External-Electronic-Charger/dp/B00DTTROY4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473620040&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+adapter http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Sale-DC-5V-2A-2000mah-AC-Power-Adapter-Wall-Charger-for-Android-Tablet-PC-MID-S-/171854362635?hash=item280351780b:g:94AAAOSwPcVVoHab https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=5v+adapter Mine were from old wireless phone handsets.

My 2441ZTH units (I have two) report temperatures in a one byte (8 bits) value 0 - 255 value = 0.0 - 127.5 degrees C. There is no negative values as it is not possible in the protocol. I don't think 0.5F resolution is possible, only 0.5C resolution. Despite forced sending testing showing about 1.5C change before sending, ISY always seems to be accurate to sensor temperature. I wouldn't use an Insteon thermostat for main HVAC in my home. I use them for sensing probes, backup = anti-freeze protection, and humidity control ventilation. Non-critical applications. Stusviews uses them for fireplace control.

Please read post #2 again. You are asking all the same questions I have already answered there. Thanks

Yes. It has to be a State variable and it will trigger program every time it changes. You don't read the temperature from the stat. It tells you (ISY) the temperature when it changes. If AC stat temperature > -999 Then set $sVariable = AC Stat, Temperature set $sVariable init to AC Stat Temperature <---survives power failures Else -- If $sVariable <= 20.0 <---stat provides hysteresis Then turn heater On wait 100 hours turn heater Off Else turn heater Off

I have to assume you mean the 2441ZTH. I had to bring it through the back also. I used some small hex nuts to raise the stat off the wood wall to accommodate that. I used a 5v adapter to run it and left the batteries in. They don't appear to get used when the AC is on and no backfeed into the batteries, is apparent. It works well. I cut the plug off and used the bare wire into the terminals in the stat. ISY does not retrieve the temperature from this device. Insteon is not a polling system from the master. Insteon is a report by exception system from the remote device. When the temperature changes about 1.5 C the stat sends a new temperature. ISY is blind after a power cycle until the stat reports a change. Many don't like this. You can memorise the temp. in a variable easily with v5. Now use the variable in your programs. Humidity is sent on a regular timed basis. IIRC about 1 minute for AC and 5 minutes for batteries. The 2441ZTH is not too bad, lacking fancy features, and looks, but the updating has to be understood or frustration results from users.

In a previous house I used a few X10 switched outlets. Most burned out running cabinet lighting, and had to be replaced, poor quality. After selling my home and having to take them all out, I never purchased any for my Insteon system, when Plug-in modules are so easy to unplug, repurpose, and take with you. I would not use smart outlets again and I wouldn't want to scare prospective buyers away when selling next time. After a previous home sale I removed all my X10 switches, worrying that the buyer would demand them back. The day of the closing inspection the woman walked right to a cluster of switches where many X10 switches were, and said, "What happened to the switches?" I told her they were part of a security system that wasn't operable anymore (BS) "Well, Good! I thought I was going to have to get an electrician to replace them all". This house I will have to worry about prospective buyers being scared off by an alternative PV solar energy system.

That what the power on feature was designed in for, regular switch operation, same as the X10 modules were. This is so people don't have to use some app on a cell phone, but rather can enter a room, and flick the switch off and then back on again, to get normal bright white lighting. This way, real people, without the neck problems, can use them too. They didn't make the lights come on with a power outage as a feature. It was a bad side effect they didn't know how to avoid without more engineering time. The price is already ridiculous. My Hue bulbs run off an Insteon SwitchLinc Dimmer.

The accident was more from a user having an unsafe device that shouldn't have been on the market. and a few other factors. Then tried to blame it on technology. It was an attention getter. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17477-insteon-almost-burned-my-house-down-now-isy-problem/?hl=%2Bburned+%2Bhouse

In the local URL interface ther eis an Install Admin Console option, IIRC I have to leave it open until I exit the Admin Console or it doesn't install.

It is pretty sad but apparently SH has been upping the quility, or trying. OTOH all electronics can be "worn out" early by dirty power. They are only designed to handle so much distortion and noise, or less. You have a lot of lightning strikes in your area? Got bad service grounding? Got a bad neutral in your house? Got a noisy UPS or inverter? Got bad connections on receptacle wiring? Bad switching power supply in another electronics piece? These are not the PLM's fault. It's just the canary in the mine that shows it first. I mympathise with you but the problem needs to be solved without your wallet every time.

Insteon does not use a three-way configuration like the exclusive Or function of hardwired switches. Insteon uses logically OR connected switches to operate the bulbs. Either can turn the lights on, and either can turn the lights Off.

Run the links provided under the thread announcing your version. When Admin Console runs it installs the icon but I have found it on my Desktop, startup menu and a few other places, lately.

PLMs are known to have poor quality power supply filter capacitors in them, and some think power supply noise could affect the memory of the PLM. When the PS caps go bad PLMs lose their links, for sure, so there is a relationship there that electrical noise could also get through and do the same thing. Electrical noise is higher frequencies that is hard for the PS capacitors to filter out and can accelerate premature failure.

I just installed a lamp as "audo video" and this worked just fine for me."Alexa. Turn on audio video" "Alexa. Turn Off audio video" Do you have code to perform your command in the Else section of your program, to be activated by your Off command? Try it with a device temporatily and see if it works there. (remove program audio video first)

Only takes about 5-10 minutes and will last you a lifetime, ...and for only pennies per day!

V5 has the features. Three things you should know. - Backup - Backup before - Backup after

You won't even know you switched.Unfortunately you won't appreciate not having decimal values and math, Repeat While constructs, comment lines, faster program processing, and many other advance features from v2-4

I wouldn't have missed an hour of V5.0.4 but I have no Z-wave and apparently that is a deal breaker for many.