larryllix

Here is a shot from one of my scenes. Note you adjust levels in the scene, not the devices under it. If you don't see the "Apply changes to all devices" option, you are not in the right place to make scene adjustments. All devices, including ISY, manually and programmatically, operating this scene, get the same levels used, every time the scene is operated. They are all operating the same preset in the devices not inside ISY. ISY just makes it easy to preset the values in your lightswitches.

Welcome to the forum and the ISY world!!

Here is a scene level changer I posted some time back in another thread. ----------------------------------------- MBR Lamp Level.adjust If From 10:30:00PM To 9:30:00AM (next day) Then In Scene 'Master Bedroom / Motion.MBR' Set 'Master Bedroom / MBR Wall Lamp' 15% (On Level) Else In Scene 'Master Bedroom / Motion.MBR' Set 'Master Bedroom / MBR Wall Lamp' 70% (On Level) ----------------------------------------- Note how the Blue highlighted "scene"" is not actually a scene at all but is on the scene pulldown menu. When the scene is activated the level in the scene is effective for the devices it controls. When you adjust your levels in your scenes, manually, make sure you are adjusting the scene levels, at the top of the scene and not the device levels under the scene container on the next lexical level.

I use one notification to write the column headers each month for a new file. I use another notification to write the data to the same file each time a variable changes. I use mwareman's script and some plug-ins to view the data on a chart. I have discovered a lot of flaws in my HVAC system using these methods.

Did you set the scene up using ISY? If so just access the scene and change the On level or do it in a program.

You can do that right at the switch by dimming it. It then remembers the On level next time you use On or you can tap it a second time to override that level. For automatic setting use the programs as above responders suggested. Welcome to ISY and the forum! Keep asking.

I had a problem like that with factory resetting my ISY. You may have changed your registered email address with UDI and you are now locked out sending help to the wrong email address. You would have to remember your old email address and password to get in, and then update both. or Contact support and have them completely reset your account to your new email address.

ANOTHER UPDATE: A TV program turned on Alexa tonight with the words "The legs are" (English accent). We backed the show up and repeated half a dozen times and Alexa responded every time with confusion. After that, I placed the Echo on top of the offending speakers and it works much better. I can talk to Alexa successfully with the TV on but needing a bit of a raised level of speech while deep TV show background music is playing, even a very low volume levels. It seems the Echo is very sensitive to bass frequencies and my TV speakers produce a lot of deep bass. Turning the bass tone down on the amp has helped slightly, also. More moving around and sound tailoring is coming, yet.

The app already displays every word that is spoken as it understands it, if you can get it's attention. When this happens badly, it doesn't understand it's own name to get it listening. Good idea though. This could help by getting it at the fringe reception zone and then experimenting.

I need to inhale more chemtrail so I can forget this whole thing. I have forgotten who started it now.

Doesn't Zwave "being instantaneous" only mean certain brands, that report updates, and then the cost of Zwave switches is higher than Insteon switches?

My Echo is on the top of a bookshelf type desk topper and a few feet from the ceiling. My first thought was talking up to it and also sound waves resonating between the cabinet top and the ceiling but I brought down to the desk surface and it is only slightly better.

They made you believe that.

Chem trail mind control is a co-ordinated effort between all governments of the world since jets fly over all countries, from all sources. It appears to be working as you have forgotten the leaked documents.

There is now an alexa skill for the ventstar T5xxx through T7xxx series thermostats. These can aslo be controlled by the ISY using Nodelink/Venstar. ISY programs can be aware of changes and make them. http://venstar.com/smart/alexa/ Not good for Celsius users. Echo can only understand whole integer temperature values, and cannot control modes, fan, or humidity, just basic temperature. It does work though and may be a good idea that voice controls can't change modes on the stats.

How did you know what mics are for what and where they are located? I will have to experiment further with my SANGUNG TV on and my Onkyo playing a different source. Maybe Samsung TV's produce some mind control sounds, for the government, co-ordinated with the chemtrails the jets put out and we just exposed it.

I can successfully give Alexa instructions from another room if I raise my voice about 50 feet away but if my TV is on almost no manner of yelling at about 2 feet away will get a response. I have found that the Echo likes a deeper male voice and is very responsive at interpreting my voice over most noise However if my TV is on via some large tower speakers, even at a very low volume Alexa just turns a a deaf ear. I am beginning to wonder the Onkyo receiver generates some kind of noise that interferes with it. Perhaps my receiver is generating some sub-sonic noise that is saturating the microphone inputs? After setting it up and rehearsing a bunch of commands I attempted to demonstrate the thing to some guests and earned a bunch of Echo enemies in the process. I could see them shaking their heads and saying "what a waste of money" where Alexa wouldn't even take the most basic of commands spoken to her from 2 feet away. I pulled her down from the top of the desk cabinet and put her on the desk for a talk-downto position with a slightly better response but what an embarrassment. Anybody else found a dramatic change in response like this?

Mine seems a little early also but if you check online sources you will find 9:00 for GTA is correct by most sources. EDIT: I see you are not in Toronto. If you use the correct Lat/Long for OS you will get 9:12 PM

You will need a common "C" wire for any smart thermostat. The Nest stat and some others advertise that you don't need a "C" wire, and can use it without one, but the battery (or carry-over capacitor) in it goes dead if your A/C or heat is on too long, each cycle. Both my sons using a Nest experienced this, and had to run a new cable to get power to their stats in the middle of the winter when long furnace run cycles are experienced. Another item with Wi-Fi stats, is they generate electronics heat inside, and the sensing has compensation to make it read the correct temperature. If any draughts from the back hole or room breezes are experienced the sensor cools down and the room temperature may vary all over the place. It's the nature of the beast that didn't happen with lower energy or mechanical thermostats.

This could be done with the internal ISY logging facility via the notification technique also. There is a thread on this back a few months ago with mwareman, myself, and others. Here you go: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/7269-logging-variables/page-1

I have a lot of MiLights and Hue bulbs mixed into my Gathering Room Insteon lighting so I found I could not used my scenes with Alexa. After adding in spokens, for all my main SwitchLinc method programs, I found my scenes useless and removed them from Alexa control. If you only have Insteon (and possibly Zwave), the Scene method is probably best. My programs just operate the scenes plus Network Resources for the non-ISY-native lighting. However, I do have a range of program for differing lighting levels that can be Alexa operated, same as from the SwitchLinc so I don't use the percent factor. I find the spoken commands for level clumsy.

Ouch! Keep reading here and asking questions. There is a lot of hidden nuances.

Maybe moved the dual band device that was echoing the rf only signals coming through the small exit places between all the metal?

I have four of these Leak sensors. The two newer units are tap length sensitive. IIRC a long tap sends Wet On, Dry off, and a short tap sends Wet Off, Dry On. or maybe verse visa? This caused me a lot of confusion when testing.

Trouble with these complex systems, and my home has five zones using these stats, is that when you have a problem, the "pros" come in, have no idea what to do, do not understand the system, and just offer to rip it out and put in a system they understand and can work with. http://tekmarcontrols.com/images/_literature/546_d_06.pdf I am a logic control system guy and love this stuff but.... Two of my stats have about 500 settings in each one that most people have never heard of and can't begin to know how to set them. With that in mind, I was trying to replace my main stat with something more simple for the WAF, and remote control and HA but simpler is just that, no features that you become dependent on. Each winter and summer I change my stats to a custom setback schedule to suit the profile of the season for best HVAC. Removing a simple feature like shared schedules means I not only have to go around and change every schedule in five stats, I have to reprogramme them twice per year and document the schedule I determined from last year. How about schedule profiles? I have not only vacations and home profiles, I have several home profiles. I keep remote bedrooms on much lower temperature settings, when guests are not present. With that profile, the bedroom zones are on vacation settings, while "main" zones are running normal schedules. With a flick of a setting, "Guest" profile is entered, and suddenly remote bedrooms are in sync with the main part of the house, following their custom temperature settings for morning, day, evening, and sleep times. Without stats that talk to each other most of this isn't possible. I could give this up and get five smart thermostats and dedicate an ISY or some other logic control box to the job. It would be much cheaper than the $1200 thermostat I am using. Do I have the energy to do it? Not any more or the foolishness to attempt it.