larryllix

If no change in status is had status will not trigger the program to keep track. Control will count signals sent regardless of status change in the end device.

Some brands of devices turn on by themselves so you don't have to use an app to control them. You just flip the switch of and then on and the bulb or appliance will come on. I avoid these types of devices.

Local pushbuttons and the dimmer circuits are two different style devices in the same container. The dimmer circuitry does not send out command signals as a slave type device, only the pushbuttons and rocker switches on SwitchLincs, etc. send out commands when operated. Sensors send commands also when a change is detected. Commands are detected in ISY by use of "control/switched" and position of dimmers and contact outputs are detected by "status" in program logic. This takes a while to become accustomed to the difference.

I learned my lesson with X10 modules years ago. Hue bulbs do the same stupid thing but the MiLight bulbs and strips don't. I have mostly MiLights now. This feature is designed to have the bulbs on a switch so you don't have to walk around with an app glued to the side of your head. I have a power up program for ISY that turns my Hue bulbs off, so I only have to tolerate a few minutes of operating room conditions in the middle of the night.

He did say "....but in the morning you find your microwave clock blinking?"

Which ebay? That item isn't found.

You started with 480v and then stated 120v or 277v. Which is it? You also haven't stated what type of load you want to switch and that is important. The unit referenced by Apostolakisl will work fine for 120 and 277 volt incandescent lighting loads but not for motor loads. It should work fine for 240 volt resistive loads also. Motor starting inrush current as well as counterEMF voltages, when turning it off, will likely burn the unit out very quickly.

Yeah, I have many of the X10 keychain dongles and only some have had one battery change since the 1980s and still work. I have two RemoteLinc 4 rocker keypads and both get used about once per month, maybe. The oldest one has been recharged about 4 times in the last year and a half, and the other one has been recharged twice in the last year since purchase. They really need to be double sided taped to the side of an end or night table so they are in a consistent place for reliable usage but then the charger would need to come to them, every charge.

Mine go dead about every 4 months whether I use them or not.

That's a setup flaw. ISY hasn't been told what you want it to know. Once ISY knows all the links and connections, ISY will then know and there won't be any hiding that from ISY. ISY can poll the dimmer circuit to see what level it is, at any time, regardless of how it got that way, with a query of the device.

This can happen with Windows after some time the admin console goes to sleep. I usually find my icons at the top of the Admin Console greyed out and some statuses do not update. Did you try a fresh admin console run?

The external sensor can be selected in the 2441ZTH and it does send the temperature back to ISY but ISY has no support for this function so the data is lost. Als,o the internal sensor data is not sent back to ISY, when "External" is selected, and the external sensor readings are only sent as 1.0C degree resolution. There was a previous thread about this, about 5-6 months ago, and some events traces were posted demonstrating this data.

Also those motor devices in your house are closer to the electronics. The suppression for those devices would best between the offending device and the sensitive device like right on the same receptacle circuit. The whole home suppressor may help but not the best location in those cases. It's hard to handle everything without suppression in multiple specific places.

One program could do it by calling itself If $Allow_to_Run is 1 Then Repeat for 4 times Set 'Outlet' On Wait 2 hours Set 'Outlet' Off Wait 1 minute Repeat 1 times Wait 16 hours Run (if) program.self Else Set 'Outlet' Off

Wow! I thought my Switchlincs could do a decimal shift multiplication function. I guess x10 means something else. From the Swichlinc manual --------------------------------------------------- Remove X10 Address 1) Press and hold Set button until it beeps LED will start blinking green 2) Press and hold Set button until it beeps LED will start blinking red 3) Send the X10 address 3 times (with or without commands) SwitchLinc will double-beep and LED will stop blinking 5) Test by sending X10 on and off commands SwitchLinc will no longer respond

Let me repeat that! I just looked at the photo.

Then a reader gadget has to go on the float indicator for crude levels that will not see change, replace the float indicator completely, drill a hole into the tank and mount another sensor in the hole. What it sounds like you really want is a flow sensor in the supply tube, from the tank, or just time your furnace running motor.

You removed the wires at the fixtures nullifying the purpose of the testing at the switch wires. Since the "Soon to be defunct" switch wiring was all dead I conclude you have the 3way switches in the neutral and more rewiring will be necessary to make a SwitchLinc work. The feed to the light string will have to be found.

How about some pressure gauge sensor under a leg?

No.The IoLinc should go across emitter and collector. The speaker should go across from emitter to base but the base needs a resistor in series with it or you'll burn out the transistor base emitter junction. The emitter should be common. Transistors are current devices and need to have a resistor to limit the current. say about 1K. YMMV

We monitored liquid levels with Nivotube sensors. Very expensive for home usage with it's analogue complete range reporting. Maybe you just want a float switch that install in place of the tank float indicator to indicate a single level.

I run all my 11 coloured light strings and bulbs off one SwitchLinc dimmer and ISY as well as the other SwitchLinc controlled ceiling light sets and ceiling and lamp Hue bulbs. about 17 parts in total. The main Switchlinc does it's bulbs and all the rest join in, ramping together. I have Christmas coloured themes, Easter, Halloween, TV watching (random colours), and the seven basic colours, combined with dimming and ceiling lights all in scenes. Wife likes them now and knows how to change colours and dim them all from the same switch. On dull days we use the double tap up to turn them all on 100% and the room looks like an operating room table with about 200 Watts of white LED light. Sure helps the dull day blues we get here on this foggy mountain.

Not a problem. I assume you are talking an Insteon MS?

I use the MiLight system with these strips. They are cheap and give really good light and easy to control from ISY or the hand controller that comes with the system. Make sure to get the RGBWW strips. I had several RGBW and once I saw the RGBWW strips I replaced all of the RGBW ones I had installed. About 3300K and nice working light. No Insteon dimmers required. You could use a SwitchLinc switch though but wouldn't need to. The strips come in various waterproofing styles. These (IP67) have a silicone case around them. There are also encapsulated styles and bare. You will regret the bare first time you have to wipe them clean. Look for the SMD5050 designation for any of the case styles. 5metre strips come with a connector on each end. I cut my in two pieces and threw the mid section away. I haven't found a way to put new pins on the left over pieces. Don't get the snap on connectors...they don't work because the pins are spaced wrong for LED strips and they all know it but still sell them for these. I have a bag of them = garbage. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-5M-RGBWW-RGB-Warm-White-IP67-Waterproof-5050-300-LEDS-Strip-DC-12V-/322105912828?hash=item4aff022dfc:g:pkUAAOSwu1VW6d8b This takes a 12v 3-5amp power supply with a 2.1 x 5.1 mm DC plug on it, Get the two wire plug. I had to cut all the ground wires off my first bunch. They dpn't go into extension cords and power bars well. It's an all plastic case anyway. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-12-Volt-DC-Power-Supply-5-Amp-5A-12V-Adapter-LCD-CB-/280869637201?hash=item4165228c51:g:riMAAOxyMxpRx6fJ a strip controller for each LED section and a central WiFi bridge by your router or anywhere http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-2-4G-LED-RGBW-Controller-WiFi-iOS-Android-APP-MiLight-for-strip-light-/222068569322?var=&hash=item33b45174ea:m:mlMSh2MK0Hhd_89PHakpQKQ I used these silicone clips to hang them underneath things. Adhesive just falls off the first time you heat them up. They are transparent. IIRC SmichaelJ (HuddaDudda) got some hard track for them that may be easier and more expensive to put up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pc-12mm-Silicone-Holder-Clip-For-Fixing-3528-5050-5630-RGB-LED-strip-Light-/351706042877?hash=item51e35051fd:g:zQUAAOSw8RJXDLA5 I connected them with this adapter from the controller to the strip. Note NOT 4 pin!! I got white cable units but didn't find them quickly. The pins are double ended plain pins so female is not an order time worry. Get all male if available. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-100-Set-5-PIN-Connector-Cable-Cord-for-3528-5050-RGBW-RGB-WW-LED-Strip-Light-/221490092631?var=&hash=item3391d69a57:m:mwk1T8abkNDmalVv_bhmoqQ These bulbs match the colour and use the same WiFi bridge unit. They come in 6 watt and 9 watt. get the 9 watt for the brilliance. Nice light! http://www.ebay.com/itm/E27-Milight-2-4G-6W-9W-RGBW-White-LED-Bulb-Group-RF-Remote-WIFI-Controller-/231637306974?var=&hash=item35eea8ce5e:m:mVUKHbQjiQdP5YPmIS-67og BTW: One WiFi bridge can only control four groups of bulbs/strips each. I use two controllers for 11 different LED strips/bulbs. Some share the same group address and there is no limit to how many per group address. You will need the network module or RPi gadget to control them. I have drivers written on RPi but don't know how to hook them to ISY yet. I can show you how to create the udp packets in about 5 minutes. They are so easy. Note: there is no blending to make pastels but after using these and Hue I am over that fantasy and couldn't care less about that. You want glowing rich colours or real good working white with excellent dimming and tone. These have that. Oh and they won't come on in the middle of the night when the power blinks like Hue bulbs do. They remember where they were left.

I was referring to this statement you made "Anyway I realized that the wall controller only has 2 wires going to it and there are 2 lit buttons (door and light). Wall Console - Series II Model: GWC-2 Part #: 35661R" and all the comments I made were about the wall control. The lights in the Operator mechanism are not related to the wall control. They run off the operator mechanism.