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If On Sat, Fri Time is 6:30:00PM I am going to hazard a guess that at 6:30 on the other days (Sun,Mon,Tues,Wed,Thur) the logic is re-evaluated and it is False stopping the Then section from running further. I haven't tested this. Perhaps other have tried this algorithm.

I had a lot of problems with the same thing way back using IE. You probably need to add your ISY IP address or URL to your antivirus software and your java setup.

"Off the 480v" is not specific and usually refers to the system only. I have never heard of lighting connected to two phases. Step down transformers are sometimes connected phase to phase and the secondary 120vac runs the lights. In Canada, many commercial and industrial buildings run 600v lighting but this only means "system" The lighting is always connected to neutral = 360 vac. This way single pole switches on the wall are required and only one pole breakers are used for each circuit. Electricians are required to change light bulbs. Older buildings were run on 600v 3 phase 3 wire and then phase to phase loads were all that were available. Step down transformers were always used for lighting running at 120vac. In later years, once the Engineers were under control, 3 phase 4 wire system were introduced to accommodate 360v lighting and the 3 phase 3 wire system are being phased (pun intended) out. The 3 phase , 3 wire systems were floating to ground, and one customer could cause a shared transformer neighbour's equipment to burst into flames when they weren't even there. It takes two to tango. Who ya' gonna' call?

Sure, buy or borrow a SmartHome Hub, programme the bulbs and take the Hub back telling them it isn't compatible. Better yet, find a friend with a Hub....group Hub anybody?

If no change in status is had status will not trigger the program to keep track. Control will count signals sent regardless of status change in the end device.

Some brands of devices turn on by themselves so you don't have to use an app to control them. You just flip the switch of and then on and the bulb or appliance will come on. I avoid these types of devices.

Local pushbuttons and the dimmer circuits are two different style devices in the same container. The dimmer circuitry does not send out command signals as a slave type device, only the pushbuttons and rocker switches on SwitchLincs, etc. send out commands when operated. Sensors send commands also when a change is detected. Commands are detected in ISY by use of "control/switched" and position of dimmers and contact outputs are detected by "status" in program logic. This takes a while to become accustomed to the difference.

I learned my lesson with X10 modules years ago. Hue bulbs do the same stupid thing but the MiLight bulbs and strips don't. I have mostly MiLights now. This feature is designed to have the bulbs on a switch so you don't have to walk around with an app glued to the side of your head. I have a power up program for ISY that turns my Hue bulbs off, so I only have to tolerate a few minutes of operating room conditions in the middle of the night.

He did say "....but in the morning you find your microwave clock blinking?"

Which ebay? That item isn't found.

You started with 480v and then stated 120v or 277v. Which is it? You also haven't stated what type of load you want to switch and that is important. The unit referenced by Apostolakisl will work fine for 120 and 277 volt incandescent lighting loads but not for motor loads. It should work fine for 240 volt resistive loads also. Motor starting inrush current as well as counterEMF voltages, when turning it off, will likely burn the unit out very quickly.

Yeah, I have many of the X10 keychain dongles and only some have had one battery change since the 1980s and still work. I have two RemoteLinc 4 rocker keypads and both get used about once per month, maybe. The oldest one has been recharged about 4 times in the last year and a half, and the other one has been recharged twice in the last year since purchase. They really need to be double sided taped to the side of an end or night table so they are in a consistent place for reliable usage but then the charger would need to come to them, every charge.

Mine go dead about every 4 months whether I use them or not.

That's a setup flaw. ISY hasn't been told what you want it to know. Once ISY knows all the links and connections, ISY will then know and there won't be any hiding that from ISY. ISY can poll the dimmer circuit to see what level it is, at any time, regardless of how it got that way, with a query of the device.

This can happen with Windows after some time the admin console goes to sleep. I usually find my icons at the top of the Admin Console greyed out and some statuses do not update. Did you try a fresh admin console run?

The external sensor can be selected in the 2441ZTH and it does send the temperature back to ISY but ISY has no support for this function so the data is lost. Als,o the internal sensor data is not sent back to ISY, when "External" is selected, and the external sensor readings are only sent as 1.0C degree resolution. There was a previous thread about this, about 5-6 months ago, and some events traces were posted demonstrating this data.

Also those motor devices in your house are closer to the electronics. The suppression for those devices would best between the offending device and the sensitive device like right on the same receptacle circuit. The whole home suppressor may help but not the best location in those cases. It's hard to handle everything without suppression in multiple specific places.

One program could do it by calling itself If $Allow_to_Run is 1 Then Repeat for 4 times Set 'Outlet' On Wait 2 hours Set 'Outlet' Off Wait 1 minute Repeat 1 times Wait 16 hours Run (if) program.self Else Set 'Outlet' Off

Wow! I thought my Switchlincs could do a decimal shift multiplication function. I guess x10 means something else. From the Swichlinc manual --------------------------------------------------- Remove X10 Address 1) Press and hold Set button until it beeps LED will start blinking green 2) Press and hold Set button until it beeps LED will start blinking red 3) Send the X10 address 3 times (with or without commands) SwitchLinc will double-beep and LED will stop blinking 5) Test by sending X10 on and off commands SwitchLinc will no longer respond

Let me repeat that! I just looked at the photo.

Then a reader gadget has to go on the float indicator for crude levels that will not see change, replace the float indicator completely, drill a hole into the tank and mount another sensor in the hole. What it sounds like you really want is a flow sensor in the supply tube, from the tank, or just time your furnace running motor.

You removed the wires at the fixtures nullifying the purpose of the testing at the switch wires. Since the "Soon to be defunct" switch wiring was all dead I conclude you have the 3way switches in the neutral and more rewiring will be necessary to make a SwitchLinc work. The feed to the light string will have to be found.

How about some pressure gauge sensor under a leg?

No.The IoLinc should go across emitter and collector. The speaker should go across from emitter to base but the base needs a resistor in series with it or you'll burn out the transistor base emitter junction. The emitter should be common. Transistors are current devices and need to have a resistor to limit the current. say about 1K. YMMV