larryllix

That looks much better. A small housing of bent aluminum on top of the vent to conceal a sensing contact and wires leading in through a small sealed hole through the house wall would look pretty professional. If the housing was bent to look approximately the same shape as the existing vent cover it would not even be noticed. I haven't used that style of dryer vent for years. Most went to the multiflap style to prevent lint clogs. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.provent-dryer-vent-kit-with-ul-listed-duct-4-inch.1000502400.html OTOH, I have seen birds lift those flaps and fly into the dryer and bathroom exhaust vents to nest without even slowing down and yet they are almost impossible to lift with your fingernails. Yeah, I had big problems with that when my last house was new.

Do a search in your programs for occurrences of the notification raw text. We know it came from ISY to get text with that exact wording. Perhaps your logs may show something. I am not familiar with the logs capabilities but there should be something recorded. You may find some old lost program you experimented with when you set up the notifications? Some other program may have been switched to the notification in question, through a miscued deletion of some kind , but the search should find that one.

Most of the drier vents these days are run in a flexible spiral wire bound with plastic or aluminum. A flapper mounted inside the pipe could have a small rare-earth magnet mounted on it and be detected on the outside of the pipe with a reed contact or even a GDO kit. An IOLinc would be needed, anyway, to get it the Insteon level anyway. With a gas drier it wouldn't be good to play with the CO2 venting and the pipe would be made of solid aluminum or some other more substantial metal. The magnetic flux may have trouble penetrating the solid aluminum and the gas vapours may "dissolve" the metals used in the flapper so select metals would need to be used etc..

If you are having success with an outside of your LAN address (via Internet) here is what I did, Open the Amin Console and when the "ISY Finder = Not found" box opens, quick click on the "Add??" button (before it continues and loads the AC) and a text box input will popup. Enter your LAN address and port for your ISY and click "save". This may take a run or two to memorise where the button is to beat the software in action. Now, every time you run the Admin Console and the ISY Finder pops up you will have to double click on the URL (IP address) of your choice.

Here is what I did in my previous house to grow grass seed. Later several neighbours commented about how fast the seed grew (impressed) I gave the soil shots of water every hour depending on how many MS sensors detected light (analogue brightness from digital signal count) so I wouldn't flood the soil but just keep it damp. Now this was just for watering purposes and not where my whole house depended on it but what would the worse case be if the valve was stuck on with closed taps or with a leak you are trying to prevent massive damage from? - I installed a powered controlled valve inline with my plumbing, on the basement ceiling. These have a bypass valve for all-else-fails of the electrics or otherwise. For a complete bypass I had length of copper pipe that would double plumbing union connector in it's place. Something like this https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1-inch-npt-jar-top-valve.1000769546.html - I installed a receptacle box in the basement ceiling on a passing electrical circuit. Basement ceiling light? - I installed a plug on the end of the leads from a doorbell transformer (24vac) - I connected the 24vac secondary of the doorbell transformer to the solenoid valve - I plugged an X10 Appliance module into the receptacle and plugged the doorbell transformer into the X10 module. - I wrote software (HC2000 X10 home control software) to feather the lawn watering times and wrote in a remote keypad to turn on the water control for 15, 30, 45 minutes, and then off, dependant on 1, 2, 3 and 4 clicks on the remote keypad button so I could water the lawn without running inside to flip the bypass lever on the valve or access software. With the valve, ApplianceLinc, doorbell transformer, bit of wiring, surface box, clamp, receptacle and cover the whole thing should cost you under about $100. This would shut off your whole house or sections or both with multiple units but you would still find a few minutes and a few gallons of water dumped on the floor, depending on top of the hill or bottom of the plumbing etc.. If you look at sprinkler controls you may be able to get a multiple valve unit for a decent price that would act as a plumbing manifold but would be at a central point on the plumbing incoming so no advantage may be seen. I would suspect these sprinkler system valves should be fairly reliable as a leak with them could net similar damage. OTOH they may be designed for outdoor circumstances and no guarantees would be offered. Mine was in place for about 10 years, with no problems, especially not exposed to weather, before I removed it and took it to my new home. Still in a junk box here. Ohhh... and it was lawn grass seed...honest! ADDENDUM: Here is the same type of valve that has an inline flow shutoff for burst waterlines. I am not sure if power is even needed for that function to work. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.34-infpt-auto-inline-vlv-nfc-gbx.1000404810.html

I just know from the last leak I had to open the LS and shake and pat the excess water out of the inside. If the liquid is deeper than 1/8" the LS will have moisture inside it that may play havoc with the PCB and/or the battery contacts, oxidizing them badly and ruining the LS for the next time. The case needs all the breathing holes it can get to dry out excess moisture after a leak detect.

I have a whole house well pump on an OnOffLinc that will sut it off based on 4 LS units around the house. Since I have an open hydronic system with over 3000' of 1/2' PEX ful of water my system will run for almost a half an hour on a depreciating pressure basis. The drains in select basement spots should look after most of that and limit the depth of flooding. Sure there will be some damage and a neighbour would get called in but imagine coming home after your water poured into the basement full ON for a week and your bathing suits all need to be washed? I also have one beside the washing machine to shut off the washing machine power. We had some problems with the drain pump clogging a while back and shutting off the machine usually closes the valves and stops the centrifugal water level rise from spinning. Notifications are sent out with notices what to correct and to use codes "AAAA" and "BBBB" on the KPL to reset the power to devices, so ISY wouldn't have to be entered via the Admin Console, for a non-HA person involved. Always think about the recovery. It may be a false alarm or really minor. Make sure notifications include enough information, including how the resolve clues.

You need to create two scenes, one with both lights at 100% and one with both lights at 20%. Each scene needs to have one switches as a controller. Playing with the On level for each switch will only affect that switches local operation and not the other responder. To affect both you need to adjust the levels in the scenes created..

I have never been that impressed with Elon Musk. His Power Wall hype started a year or so ago and I did some research. Per kWh of storage the Power Wall averages about ten times the cost of other current technologies. Telsa like to give the impression you just plug in the Power Wall into any receptacle in your house and away it goes saving the world. He has a huge following of uneducated yuppies drooling after every word he says. What you really get, is an under sized battery bank that would never power any household , and a charger to charge a 300-450 volt battery bank. Now you need switching circuits, grid-tie inverter and safety lock-out devices before generating anything back into the grid. Suddenly you have another $15K on top of this expensive battery and charger , for this to even work When you start to compare what this actual box contains: I have a 6.6 kWh flooded battery bank for less than $380 CAN and the Power Wall offers a 7kW battery bank for $3000 US if you buy 100 units as a distributor. That was the press release price at the time. Here's the real kicker. The maximum load you can put on a Telsa Power Wall is 2kW, enough to run one fridge and a few light bulbs. I assume it will take short overloads while the fridge compressor starts up. My small flooded battery bank will take a 70kW load for a few minutes and not damage it. LioN batteries are very restricted to how fast you can charge them. Huge solar PV banks cannot force charge these things so oversizing would be a requirement of LioN batteries. They explode. This Power Wall was designed to hype the elitists with Telsa cars to attempt to delay charging of the car batteries to when electrical energy is cheaper, after complaints that the Telsa hype was untrue about the economy of the cars. To power a home using Power Wall units would take about 5 or more units and the difference between on peak and off peak rates, you could save with those, would never pay the cost of the energy saved for the rest of any of our lives. Never mind the cost of replacing them every ten years. So far no battery system can ever store energy as cheaply as the grid can produce it. When they crack that barrier things in the energy world will change. The LioN battery technology is a good step towards that but Elon Musk borders on a con man. Very brave and a leader, though. Maybe multi-level marketing schemes will come about with Telsa next. Currently they have opened a chain of stores handling their jackets, bags, shoes and other Telsa wear paraphernalia across North America. I wonder if Disney is watching? A lot off topic here but that scam the energy uneducated people stuff really annoys me.

Use "switched" instead of "status" If "status" is actually wanted then use "Not Off" or "> 0" If one SwitchLinc is used to control light2 with Status, and then light2 is turned off, but then wanted back on from the first SwitchLinc, "status" will not operate the second switch via a program. "Switched" will trigger a program every time the switch paddle is operated. "Status" will trigger a program only when the switch turns on the light. Note: Earlier than v5.x ISY versions use Control switchlinc is switched 'On' while v5.+ uses switchlinc is switched 'On' The 'control' word may be disappearing.

You talk about cloud control? Send in the cloud!

That happens over at cocoontech all the time. Lately it has started to happen occasionally here too. You select a word and hit backspace and the whole post is empty.

Not a problem!. That's what the forum is for and most enjoy helping, even Paul, as he has nothing else to do in his prison cell..

If mfranzel is not electrically oriented, at all, I would recommend he get an electrician to do this. Even clamping on a CT to a conductor in a panel full of live connections. I wouldn't recommend he even open the cover himself. Even as experienced workers in this field, doing it every day for decades, we never opened a live panel without insulated gloves and flash glasses, Too many of my co-workers created flashes opening old panels with breakers and wiring falling apart.

Welcome! Yeah what Paul stated above, but don't forget that jumper 5, in the back of the MS, sets remote setting control via software, or else only the MS hardware, inside, can affect settings.

For more mechanical ease of construction you can use the extra wire in the other hot conductor to wrap around your electromagnet also. You just need to wrap that wire around the opposite direction of the first wire. This will take up some slack created by the first wire and increase the sensitivity of the loop count. We are still playing with unapproved electrical wiring devices so some electrical knowledge and safety situational thinking is required to make this work and keep things safe.

Yes, when you run the browser access for the first time it loads the Administration Console java applet onto your desktop for you convenient usage next time. When java updates sometimes, or whenever you upgrade your ISY firmware version the java applet has to match the version of the f/w. Trouble is java like to hang onto everything and use the existing stuff. This causes problems with ISY. If you run Windows, go into the Control Panel and looks for the java icon. Under the first tab "General" at the bottom there is a button "Settings" that has the clearing of java junk on the pop-up box. Look for the "Delete FIles". Check all boxes for a clean slate.

Try clearing the java cache completely and reloading the ISY UI. I don't see what this would do but if java updated on you it could destroy the current setup. Report back so people know your situation.

Sorry. I wasn't attempting to imply that you proposed it, but rather that it would violate the warranty etc.. My bad, for shortcutting the wording there. I have edited that to clarify.

I have several old dryer motors that I have used for venting and miscellaneous bench woodworking tools. They are all 120vac motors despite coming out of 240vac dryers over the years. The timers are also 120vac synchronous motors, as well as the lamps in the drums. There were no 240:120v step-down transformers in any dryer I have taken apart.

I have a 120vac gas dryer so do not have your problem. If I had a 240vac dryer my method would be (as Apostolakisl stated as a warranty/safety voiding operation) to open up the dryer, find the motor 120vac leads and install a 120vac standard receptacle, if there is not already one there, put a plug on the motor leads and plug it into an Insteon SynchroLinc. This would detect anytime the motor is running but not the drum lamp or timer etc... I can detect the drum lamp to detect when the door is left open too long but that wouldn't be as easy to catch with the mentioned technique. Blocking the dryer vent with a mechanism may be a problem but seems like a clean method if you are not electrical but mechanically inclined. Don't try this with a gas dryer as you could CO2 poison the occupants. Edit: Apostolakisl statement clarification. Appeared opposite of intention.

Was there a particular reason to check if the lamp was off before dimming it? You could just take the line out.

Welcome! You can do this by direct coomunications between MS units and lamp devices. It is fast and you can control the brightness by predetermining it before the MS sees motion. It can get complicated for newbies but the forum is here and many can help you if you feel adventurous. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/16056-motion-sensor-speed/?hl=%2Bdirect+%2Bscene&do=findComment&comment=138658

I experimented for a few months with HS2 using an Insteon Hub and found some of the logical constructs missing.` I switched to ISY about two years ago and felt much better about a smaller energy usage machine that didn't threaten to fail constantly with old moving mechanism parts and a way over complicated OS than needed just to do a controller job. In the end ISY feels more reliable, professional and user friendly, while HS2 felt more like a hack project out of somebody's basement with promises of doing everything. ISY has no virus software written for it that I have heard of. Larger OS systems abound with virii threats.

I have four LS units and none have failed yet in the last or so I got my first one. Insteon device are very reliable once you get over the initial quality assurance phase (month or so) What does fail is programming that is not fully tested. I think we are all guilty of that occasionally. Even when tested there is some sneak thing that can happen down the road that you never thought of but... consider what would happen if you didn't install the LS in the first place. I have been lucky with only a few leaks that wet my basement and the floor in the laundry room. I can write programs to protect things fairly reliably now and trust myself but it's the little side effects that get caused, like resetting the alarm system I wrote for it, not being able to reset the alarms, reset the water back on, alarm lights getting stuck on etc.. etc.. Those things become harder to test. Time will heal this after real life events but you can be far away and be embarrassed when your house lights all flash for an hour and the neighbours come with guns.