larryllix

A motion detector and one Switchlinc dimmer can replace the 3 way function with the bonus of ISY knowing you are home and not having to touch a light switch spreading nasty bacteria Who wants to touch switches and mark up walls in the dark anyway? Wife and I make jokes when we travel to other homes now. ' OMG! You have to get up and push on the switches here! Imagine still having to get up and change channels on the TV?' Sent from my SGH-I257M using Tapatalk

OTOH: If you went purely Zwave you would need the Zwave adapter PCB that plugs inside the ISY994 (your model already has it) and then the PLM for Insteon devices would not be required.

When starting out and you need massive quantities of some things. Looks for the multi-packs(4-8 units) from amazon.com, sharthome.com, costco.com Watch for special from time to time. Many are reported here in this forum. or if in Canada the *.ca equivalents and aartech.ca for best service and prices. You will need larger quantities of wire-in SwitchLinc dimmers (come in non-dimming and dimmer modules - I only use dimmers), LampLinc plug-in dimmers, OnOffLinc? plug-in modules (3wire plugs). Motion Sensors, LeakLincs are also available in multi-pack. Welcome to Insteon, ISY and the forum! .and oh yeah......Zwave too.

I would use two state variables to determine the fan speed and lamp level. Then I would write for programs for the fan and four for the light level (if desired) I would then dedicate the top buttons a-b to the lamp levels and the c-d button to the fan speed. Each time you press the top button on the right side the lamp would brighten one notch. Same with the second from top for the fan speed. Double clicks for all four possibilities could turn the fan full speed On or Off and/or the lamp full on/off to avoid the extra clicking. The programs all look like this (4 speeds for fan, 4 levels for lamp) If $s.FanSpeed = 1 Then set Scene.fanLow On Else --- and If $s.LampLevel = 3 Then set Lamp 100% Else -- Now your receiving programs for the buttons would look like this (1 for Lamp, 1 for fan) If control miniRemote.b is switched ON AND $s.LampLevel < 3 Then $s.LampLevel += 1 Else $s.LampLevel = 0 <----this would cycle the sequence to Off after Full brightness. Eliminate for stay at 100% Now any program you want to change the speed of the fan or lamp you just change the variable value and it's like ISY magic ...it happens all by itself! Questions or clarity? Just ask! Now you still have two buttons to spare. You can even do it all on one button but the operating process gets goofy.

LOL. You counting the "triple tap" trick in there too?

In four scene mode each rocker switch acts exactly like a SwitcLinc on the wall. This keeps a consistency when a SwichLinc and a Mini-Remote operate the same devices. Each button can produce six different codes. Fast On, On, Brighten, Dim, Off, Fast Off. Here is a program to turn lights On and Off from four different devices. Fast On/Of are combined with On/Off to perform the same duties. PorchAndDeck Lights.manual - [iD 0083][Parent 0017] If ( 'Foyer / Front Porch Lights' is switched Fast On Or 'Foyer / Side Deck Lights' is switched Fast On Or 'Gathering Room / GathRm KeyPad.D' is switched Fast On Or 'Master Bedroom / MBR KeyPad.D' is switched Fast On ) And 'Foyer / Front Porch Lights' is not switched Fast Off And 'Foyer / Side Deck Lights' is not switched Fast Off And 'Gathering Room / GathRm KeyPad.D' is not switched Off And 'Gathering Room / GathRm KeyPad.D' is not switched Fast Off And 'Master Bedroom / MBR KeyPad.D' is not switched Off And 'Master Bedroom / MBR KeyPad.D' is not switched Fast Off Then Disable Program 'Porch Lights.auto' Set 'Foyer / Front Porch Lights' Fast On Set 'Foyer / Side Deck Lights' Fast On Wait 6 hours Run Program 'PorchAndDeck Lights.manual' (Else Path) Else Set 'Foyer / Front Porch Lights' Off Set 'Foyer / Side Deck Lights' Fast Off Enable Program 'Porch Lights.auto'

You will find MobiLinc and other remote apps will cut the names off at the last an actual name of devices. No folder will be shown so another technique is usually used. I don't use any deeper than two folders and my devices include the folder name in their names ie. Utility Rm/MS.lowBatt.Util, MBR/MBR Lamp, MBR/MBR Lamp.auto This way when the remote apps sort them alphabetically similar functions can be found on one page. I seldom would want all devices in a room to be on the same page when mobile even though I file them on ISY by room for programming and development usage. When I get a text message about a low battery, I want to see all 10 MS units n one page for investigation. Similarly when something moves in my house while away I want to see all the MS programs one page. This is based on experience with false MS triggers. If somebody was in my home more MS units would be triggered and I need quick access, not time consuming page changes.

Yes. very good points! I have seen people using the =+ 1 program line to make a 0 into a 1. That is also a dangerous construct due to the reasons stated by Stu above. Note: OP used the opposite logic so $PoolHeating is not 0 would match the OP program.

You have to write a program to receive the Fast On command from the SwitchLinc. There would be no point in sending it a Fast On because it only has one speed and no dimming facilities. SwitchLincs can produce six different commands.

Unless the halogen is one of these 12v bulbs (MR-16) that goes into a can with a ballast that can't be dimmed.

IIRC there was a discussion about non-dimming SwitchLinc devices and they still produce Fast On commands, They just can't dim and may not respond to them...... but ISY will.

Yes, it should resolve that problem but the variable is still the loose cannon as it can shut off your pools heat if it changes. Do you have any ISY REST hits from other devices or mobile apps that hit on ISY variables etc.? If your variable became 0 and stopped your pool heat cycler it should have shown up and notified you. Also when the variable became true again the pool het cycler should have self-started again??? as long as it is a State variable. That would be the final check. You sure the variable is a State variable. This could all be resolved by it being an Integer variable type... please?

I just noticed the title of the thread using "State Variable" ...ooops! I denote my state variables with a prefix $sVariable, my Integer variables with nothing, $Variable, and my constant variables as $cVariable. Many others use this style $s.variable and $i.variable. These techniques help to keep the confusion down when reading programs, a year later. Back to topic: You still need to find out what is causing your program and probably the variable to change.

What is controlling the control variable $PoolHeating ? If you enable the run at Initialisation, would the variable condition be true at that point because the IF sections is run and the logic needs to be true at the same time. If the logic fails your loop will never run until you change the variable. If the variable is not a State variable there is no trigger for the program, ever, and the program will not run Then or Else. I have always been very leery of programs that don't retrigger automatically. There are too many sneak factors that can make them fail, as you may be discovering. With absolute times you can also be sure the pool will be the best temperature when you need it. ...and the program will always self trigger despite unseen circumstances for the variable and/or program. HeatPool - [iD 0039][Parent 003E] If { time is 12:01 AM or time is 6:01 AM or time is 12:01 PM or time is 6:01 PM } AND $PoolHeating is 1 Then Set 'Pool Equipment / SupplyValve' Off Set 'Pool Equipment / ReturnValve' Off Set 'Pool Equipment / Polaris' Off Wait 1 minute Set 'Pool Equipment / FilterPump' On Set 'Pool Equipment / PoolHeater' On Wait 2 hours Set 'Pool Equipment / FilterPump' Off Set 'Pool Equipment / PoolHeater' Off Else -----

Yes it should but if your variable ever glitches Off/On the cycle will be broken. I would add some times triggers to your If section, also to ensure retriggering after power cycling and other unfortunate cycle stoppers. I would also use andyf0's method (lose the last recursive line) as it is more structured and apparent approach.

Very nice! Sounds like the best plan so far, inside the house with the IOLinc = no wall penetration, standard parts =very little fabrication for those not so inclined, minimal interference with existing function, and no electrical warranty voiding or electrical safety hazards. Bravo Apostolakisl ! Note: Plastic venting parts may not be approved for gas appliances (I see no mention of restrictions even on lowes.ca) but gas dryers can just take a SynchroLinc plug-in for their 120vac requirements.

OK Thanks for that. I misunderstood it was a clamp-on sensor. Doing some research I have come across a clamp-on water flow sensor but the 1/2" model has a lower measurement limit of about 1.0 gpm, way too high for my purposes. Looks like it would take a connect inline unit with the paddle wheel. Rollin'... rollin' ....rollin' on the river.

Obviously you can't have a "clamp-on" with water shutoff features but do you have links to the clamp-on versions? The Water Hero website only lists three other models that get soldered or threaded inline with the pipes. It would be good to detect water flow in an existing pipe to resolve an elusive (8 years now) problem that I have with a tankless water heater system.

I doubt wiring any light fixture without a switch, or some other air gap device, would pass electrical code and can be dangerous when you have to change a light bulb.

Are you using a condition in your "If" section based on the status of the light you are controlling?

That looks much better. A small housing of bent aluminum on top of the vent to conceal a sensing contact and wires leading in through a small sealed hole through the house wall would look pretty professional. If the housing was bent to look approximately the same shape as the existing vent cover it would not even be noticed. I haven't used that style of dryer vent for years. Most went to the multiflap style to prevent lint clogs. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.provent-dryer-vent-kit-with-ul-listed-duct-4-inch.1000502400.html OTOH, I have seen birds lift those flaps and fly into the dryer and bathroom exhaust vents to nest without even slowing down and yet they are almost impossible to lift with your fingernails. Yeah, I had big problems with that when my last house was new.

Do a search in your programs for occurrences of the notification raw text. We know it came from ISY to get text with that exact wording. Perhaps your logs may show something. I am not familiar with the logs capabilities but there should be something recorded. You may find some old lost program you experimented with when you set up the notifications? Some other program may have been switched to the notification in question, through a miscued deletion of some kind , but the search should find that one.

Most of the drier vents these days are run in a flexible spiral wire bound with plastic or aluminum. A flapper mounted inside the pipe could have a small rare-earth magnet mounted on it and be detected on the outside of the pipe with a reed contact or even a GDO kit. An IOLinc would be needed, anyway, to get it the Insteon level anyway. With a gas drier it wouldn't be good to play with the CO2 venting and the pipe would be made of solid aluminum or some other more substantial metal. The magnetic flux may have trouble penetrating the solid aluminum and the gas vapours may "dissolve" the metals used in the flapper so select metals would need to be used etc..

If you are having success with an outside of your LAN address (via Internet) here is what I did, Open the Amin Console and when the "ISY Finder = Not found" box opens, quick click on the "Add??" button (before it continues and loads the AC) and a text box input will popup. Enter your LAN address and port for your ISY and click "save". This may take a run or two to memorise where the button is to beat the software in action. Now, every time you run the Admin Console and the ISY Finder pops up you will have to double click on the URL (IP address) of your choice.

Here is what I did in my previous house to grow grass seed. Later several neighbours commented about how fast the seed grew (impressed) I gave the soil shots of water every hour depending on how many MS sensors detected light (analogue brightness from digital signal count) so I wouldn't flood the soil but just keep it damp. Now this was just for watering purposes and not where my whole house depended on it but what would the worse case be if the valve was stuck on with closed taps or with a leak you are trying to prevent massive damage from? - I installed a powered controlled valve inline with my plumbing, on the basement ceiling. These have a bypass valve for all-else-fails of the electrics or otherwise. For a complete bypass I had length of copper pipe that would double plumbing union connector in it's place. Something like this https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1-inch-npt-jar-top-valve.1000769546.html - I installed a receptacle box in the basement ceiling on a passing electrical circuit. Basement ceiling light? - I installed a plug on the end of the leads from a doorbell transformer (24vac) - I connected the 24vac secondary of the doorbell transformer to the solenoid valve - I plugged an X10 Appliance module into the receptacle and plugged the doorbell transformer into the X10 module. - I wrote software (HC2000 X10 home control software) to feather the lawn watering times and wrote in a remote keypad to turn on the water control for 15, 30, 45 minutes, and then off, dependant on 1, 2, 3 and 4 clicks on the remote keypad button so I could water the lawn without running inside to flip the bypass lever on the valve or access software. With the valve, ApplianceLinc, doorbell transformer, bit of wiring, surface box, clamp, receptacle and cover the whole thing should cost you under about $100. This would shut off your whole house or sections or both with multiple units but you would still find a few minutes and a few gallons of water dumped on the floor, depending on top of the hill or bottom of the plumbing etc.. If you look at sprinkler controls you may be able to get a multiple valve unit for a decent price that would act as a plumbing manifold but would be at a central point on the plumbing incoming so no advantage may be seen. I would suspect these sprinkler system valves should be fairly reliable as a leak with them could net similar damage. OTOH they may be designed for outdoor circumstances and no guarantees would be offered. Mine was in place for about 10 years, with no problems, especially not exposed to weather, before I removed it and took it to my new home. Still in a junk box here. Ohhh... and it was lawn grass seed...honest! ADDENDUM: Here is the same type of valve that has an inline flow shutoff for burst waterlines. I am not sure if power is even needed for that function to work. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.34-infpt-auto-inline-vlv-nfc-gbx.1000404810.html