larryllix

That is what I thought you were implying. If the event viewer is showing successful reception of the command, but your programs are not successful, then either your ISY is corrupt, or your program is not working as you think it should. You stated "Monitors four Leak Sensors in house - under Kitchen Sink, behind Washer in Laundry Room, above Washer in access space between floors behind removable panel in ceiling in Laundry Room, in Garage behind Water Heater. Test is LampLinc module 2456D3." Does this mean you are only showing one of the four programs?

People keep tooting this stuff with security but I see many holes in it, at this point. This person has to sit in wait of me to randomly sign into my ISY, intercept and decode packets between my remote device and ISY, using their own certificate? How would they get a certificate into my ISY to transmit? If they can do it at the receiving end how would me having a certificate at my receiving end make it secure? I can't say I understand all this stuff well but it always sounds like something imagined. It has to be more complex than what I just scenarioed (word?)

If only one, maybe two sensors are required the simple 2441ZTH Insteon thermostat is about the cheapest and most PnP. Humidity is sent on a regular basis, and can act as a heartbeat. Temperature is sent on about a 1.0 C change. The units are not compact, great looking or particularly cheap but easy to implement. Two AA batteries will run it or add a small 5v USB charger with the microUSB plug cut off the end if you can strip and connect wiring into a terminal block. If the power fails, the batteries just kick in and the updates are slower. https://www.aartech.ca/2441zth-insteon-wireless-temperature-humidity-sensor.html http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html

I am not sure I reading this problem correctly but.... How do you know the Leak is sending a DON signal? Somewhere in the Leak Sensor's history they changed what the button does. I have two older units and two newer units. The newer units can send WET or DRY depending if you tap the button quickly or hold it for a second or more. When attempting to clear my detection programs, after testing, a short tap cleared the older two unit's WET signal but resent the WET signal ON for the two newer units. A longer tap on the two newer units cleared the WET and sent the DRY -On signal. Having said all that above, I may have the logic backwards with the short vs long tap reversed in my head. It's been a while now so do some experimentation with the length of tap..

That is all the same in Canuckistan, here. HD has a policy not to take back used lightbulbs or other half consumed products. I have bought products from the Canuck Home Hardware chain and taken them back to HD for a profit without any card or receipt. I have also attempted to return products to HD that they have changed brands, or style, (UPC code) and the scan just turns up, "Sorry, not our product"

I believe if I would have lied and stated the bulb didn't work it may have been a different story but I tried to tell them their new Utilitech brand bulbs were garbage and get my money back. I think the brand name migrated from Lowes back a year or more ago,

Proven used.

If I query a scene would I expect to get something that wasn't known before?

I don't bother with all that nonsense. In Chrome I just hit advanced and click ignore the warning each time. I know I am no going to hack into my own equipment and if I did, I wouldn't cause any damage anyway.

How do you "Query the scene"?

I brought a bad led bulb back and the newbie looks at the tip and found a scratch and told me the policy is not to return any bulbs. Now this was their cheap Utilitech brand and I told them it was junk. It took three seconds to light up. That was probably the clincher, returning for bad quality, not defective.

HD will not take lightbulbs back. I had one didn't know what to do and just slipped me a replacement once without any records but since they just tell you to call the Cree number on the package.

5.0.3 will be beta also. There will be a long road before a RC version will be out. OTOH after running v5.0.1 and v5.0.2 I would have no problem relying on either version for serious applications. Any problems I have seen were just gui and very minor.

If you have been operating bulbs with a starting ballast and the gap was not making good contact the contacts could be welded together now. Contacts that fallback under weakening spring pressure and not by a driving force mechanism are usually not a good design and tend to do this. Add some manufacturing oils and dust and a surge creating ballast and you have a burnt contact.

At this point I have to believe UDI's words that a signal collision is responsible but without complex testing of Insteon signal collision generating equipment this isn't going to happen. SH would be the only ones capable of performing these complex tests as they hold all the technology close to their chests and UDI isn't even allowed to use SH's chip without permission. How could anybody else even know what it does? How could UDI even know what the code running the serial port driver and protocol is? Why would SH even care to do this testing when it isn't their problem? My guess is they all are right but the problem is with such a simple and poor serial port protocol the ISY has some problem with the buffer crashing or overrunning and an ALL ON signal is created for the PLM. It doesn't have to be in the Insteon signal. I could be in the interface to the ISY.

Thanks for those tech heads up Brian. If I knew how to get the glass off, I would have been into them by now, because I don't expect much out of the Cree help line, although I haven't bothered yet, experiencing the receipt demand right up front. My guess is they have installed poor grade caps also and the power supply shows voltage dips amplifying them at the light output due to soft start circuitry and no soft off design.

Yes. Very stable but lots of gui stuff incomplete.

Just signed out and back in to Tapatalk. Let's see but I don't know how i could sign in to a user account that was never created.

As per the flavour here, I have my thermostat set for day and night temperatures and can override any errors in Insteon or ISY judgment after a period of time. I also have remote control of ISY and thermostat and alarms from other monitoring devices to alert me. For setback I use a program to set the temperature early to accommodate my comfort levels. This is always a compromise between being cold before bed and being hot in bed as my home drops heat very slowly and even the two degrees takes about 6 hours. It has a hard time hitting the night temperature on day warmer than freezing. If ISY totally screws up, my stat will kick the night time temperature at 11:00 PM anyway. For recovery I do the same thing in reverse. My stat is set to day temperature at 10:00 am as a just in case setting. In my programs I consider wind speed and outside temperatures as factors. The other factor is a measured speed at which the house drops degrees and rises degrees. I also use a wind compensation for my temperatures because it is very windy where I live and it creates cold draughts in far corners of the house from the windows. I increase the running temperature by 0.5 degrees C, the finest increment on the T7900 thermostat and then return them after 45 minutes. BTW: The windows are deepset design, latest modern heat saving technology, available in this area, so no need for the window R-factor discussion. Frequent winds over 50kph with outside temps of -20C make cold panes. My air handler fan motor is ECM and I run a cycler on top of that kicking in at regular intervals when heat/cold is not circulating the air,

Most install the thermostat themselves. They run at 24vac for most systems If your thermostat runs baseboards or has larger wiring on the terminals it could be 120vac and you should get an Electrician if you are not confident in doing this. There are many threads on this forum about wire colours and connecting them. I would suggest taking a picture of the wiring in the back of the stat and posting it here, in a post. Need to use the "Use Full Editor" editor though.

As per Techman above, use Insteon 2441ZTH to send temperature and humidity to ISY. I wouldn't be comfortable having Insteon signals operating my HVAC equipment for heating but I would be comfortable operating the HVAC circ fan to even out the temperatures. If your Insteon system fails the furnace may not turnoff and be stuck on. I would save that for direct wired reliable equipment only. Having said that I do modify the temperature on my Venstar thermostat but the stat has regular time quadrants during the day where it sets the temperature back to it's schedule.

Unfortunately the beep parameter does not function so it isn't a good feedback.

I am not sure how you would do this as I have never used queries for devices. You could run a timeout program that the humidity update keeps reset but that would depend on the humidity changing constantly. A long timer could be used to perform this but may not work perfectly. If the humidity sensor sends the same RH every time the program will not get triggered, If humidity >= 0 <---- just this may be enough to trigger the Wait reset Or temperature >= 0 Or heat contact is switched 'On' Or cool contact is switched 'On' Then Wait 60 minutes Send a notification 'Stat comm failed' Else ---- I have been tracking and controlling my humidity here for the last month and it wiggles and bobbles continuously but I am mechanically attempting to keep it constant. Opening a door for 5 minutes causes a drop for about 3-4 hours. It's below 0 C here and very dry when the air is heated inside.

DDNS services do not access, or have any knowledge of your ISY's IP address on your LAN. Those addresses never get outside of your router onto the Internet. That isn't the way DDNS works. The DDNS service only knows your ISP created and issued IP address, issued to your router, after your app or router contacts the DDNS service web service with it's ID information..

The 2441ZTH sends a humidity update as a heartbeat every minute, or longer if on batteries.