larryllix

Some programs posted did not have the shutoff.

Are you using += ?

Factrory reset them both and do a Restore on them both. It's always worth a try and it's really easy.

I thought it was niggardly using the SwitchLinc somewhere else.

I wouldn't bother doing scenes for that. Just set the levels you want in the programs.

Now take a model 6260 and label the 60 minute button "ON" and label the 10 minute button "Off". There you have DIHA. (Distributed Intelligence Home Automation). I have seen some of these units with more logarithmic scaled times. More like 10,30,60,120 minutes.

That's all that simple bathroom fan timers do. You press a button usually labelled 5,10,15,20 minutes and get that many minutes before it turns off.

A simple nonInsteon timer would have saved a few bucks unless a cyclic program to vent the bathroom on a weather dependent schedule is also wanted

Does that mean your lights came on alternately, A or B but never together?

Start a new thread. Different topic and more will find it and possibly join in.

If the fan is wired to the same switch you want to turn the fan off with you are basically out of luck. Once you tap the bottom of the SwitchLinc paddle the fan is turned off without Insteon or ISY programs or scenes. However, you could turn the fan back on and then time it off or use another signal to turn it off. For a double tap on the top (fast on) that could work. IF control fan is switched fast on THEN wait 10 minutes set fan off ELSE (optional) This way whether the fan is running or not the timer will be initiated and the fan should shut off. The danger is you could miss the double tap and there is no feedback to the success. In view of this do not get rid of your basic program with a very long timer like this (have both) or you may come home to your fan still running. IF control fan is switched on AND control fan is NOT switched off THEN wait 30 minutes set fan off ELSE set fan off You could also acknowledge by flashing the LED or beepig the SwitchLinc but I doubt you would hear it with a fan running. IF control fan is switched fast on THEN set fan SwitchLinc LED 0% set fan SwitchLinc LED 100% set fan SwitchLinc LED 25% <--- or whatever brightness you like wait 10 minutes set fan off ELSE (optional)

No. I am saying the flashing of the LED doesn't indicate anything, except you pressed that button, and is not a debugging tool. Scenes do not detect a device is operated from anywhere. They only detect signals from the devices that are controllers defined in that scene. Something has to initiate every scene. Random devices, not in a scene, operating a device, that is in that scene, do not activate that scene.

All my keypad buttons flash when I press them and they aren't linked to anything. The 2-3 flashes after any keypress is built in to the device and not related to scenes, communications or ISY programs.

Without having the syntax handy right now.... Just send the rest command to set the same variable to ISY setting it to -999 or 999. Setting the thermostat directly from Echo control would be suicide IMHO. That would be like putting your thermostat on the coffee table for every child and big kid to play with it. Good joke the rejected vacuum cleaner salesman setting your heat up to 40 degrees C just as he leaves your home. ISY can sort out the value it gets in the variable, apply scaling factors, check for reasonability, interpret the values for special command like Up/Down, and apply situational logic (time of day) to values to further check reasonability.

If the echo cannot do any conditional logic, can you have Echo send a 999 and -999 for Up and Down, respectively? ISY could sort this out easily by filtering out ridiculous values and making exceptions like the values below to run a program that looks at the current setpoints or temperature, adds/subtracts half or one whole degree and changes that setpoint.

More history on this. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/12934-isy-support-for-insteon-hub/

I would make sure it is returnable. Many report having them in their tool box but I have yet to hear anybody using one successfully but then the need for such a device is waning.

This equates to 0x3B7516 and I can't see any new bits in the quantity. 16,38410 would have been a different story.

I had one about two years ago when I first started with Insteon. I thought it would translate X10 code to Insteon. It did, Another feature of the EZX10RF was to repeat X10 signals. I thought this would be a good idea. it was not. It repeated X10 signals so that things got the signal twice. X10 does not have enough intelligence in the protocol or devices to handle this properly. However the unit I had also did another bad thing. It not only repeated every X10 signal it repeated the previous X10 unit code combined with the current house code and command. eg. Turn A4 off X10 = A4 select, House A off Turn B5 on X10 = B5 select, House B on The EZX10RF would now send B4 select, B5 select, House B on This would turn B4 on which was not sent or desired. I had to resurrect my old home brew monitor software to find this. I concluded this was not a bug in the manufacture but a bug in the engineering design. The repeating of X10 was too intelligently done to be a bug in the firmware. and I eventually found a company person bragging on a forum about how they added X10 code repeating after a certain version. The unit went back as defective. I haven't touched any of their products since and they have some nice I/O devices. Too bad for Insteon users. Hearing about some of their other product design flaws has only reinforced my opinion. According to their claims the device should be a perfect fit for your application. The PLM will receive X10 signals on the powerline only and work with other X10 bridges that you must already have.

By changing it to a control trigger, you can select which device signal has turned it on and you can activate the off timer from only that trigger. By sensing the status of the lights it doesn't matter what turned them on, they are going to turn off again the way your second program is written. This seemed to be your complaint.

IMHO this is your problem using status. It measures the device instead of the signal that identifies the source. If Control 'Outside / Outside Rear Spots' is switched On Control 'Outside / Outside Rear Spots' is NOT switched Off Then Wait 3 hours Set Scene 'Outside / Outside Rear Spots' Off Else Set Scene 'Outside / Outside Rear Spots' Off <---switch already does this via load connection

Sounds like an Apple product problem. I live in apple country but the kind some people eat only. Hopefully somebody versed with this, more than I, will jump in here.

There is flux cleaning spray that works well with an old toothbrush but I think if moisture is kept low flux is not a problem for etching the traces. Keep the brush wet and conductive and your other hand on a trace to equalise/neutralise any static or voltage difference.

Your 192.168.0.xx:yyyy is an address that is not allowed out on the Internet and is for local LAN access only. Almost everybody uses the same range of IP addresses on their own LAN and routers will not pass this range outside onto the Internet. Port forwarding in your router allows an external Internet IP address to be converted to a local LAN IP address and vice versa. This is effectively "punching a hole" in the natural firewall created by your router. Usually inside your own LAN the port address is assumed to be 80 and not needed to be specified. http:// is the prefix to be used with this non-secure port. https:// (note 's') would be used for ports like 443 and higher. This is more secure protocols.

Thanks for everything you have done on this Brian. Once I get around to swapping the PLMs I will be researching the forum for "the cure". My PLM is almost two years old now and I think it was in the mid v1.x (fingers crossed)