larryllix

Just standing things up vertically helps a lot in most cases. (pun noted)

I don't know the purpose of having two account would be but ours asked us about each voice a few years ago. Now it recognises each of our voices just to act personal. I do not see any purpose for it. After many years usi g ten Alexa boxes I thought I would try asdigning devices to room groups as they constantly pestered me to do. For already named devices that is a mistake as a device named 'kitchen lights' and a room named 'kitchen' totally confuses Alexa and I get back that 'kitchen doesn't support that' or 'there is no such device named kitchen' Sent from my SM-S711W using Tapatalk

Who would write an http: driver that isn't backward compatible with the accepted protocol for what 20 years? Very weird for such a new protocol standard.

In view of the tech updates n the PLM, I would get one and keep it as a backup unit. If you cannot re-furb the older one, you have a head start on the replacement timing. I would avoid the RS-232 (serial port) PLM, as new microCPU boxes do not support RS-232 typically. It is a dying/dead interface.

If there is some complete scrambling of the link table, and/or crashed firmware inside the PLM, it may help. However, if the PLM link table is an antique with only 256 link spaces, and you are overloading it (likely these days), then nothing is going to help that PLM except to remove many links (scenes, devices) ie: use for a smaller system?

REST commands use GET, not POST. This may depend on what device you are talking to though.

No. AFAIK the PLM has a simple self management system for links inside. The link overflow is when the attempted amount of links becomes more than the hardware would hold. This was subsequently replaced by about 1024 links of space and then about 2048 more recently, IIRC. I am not sure ISY can tell when the PLM is full making the link storage unsuccessful and we get weird things missing but other parts of the Insteon remote device may work fine. Each Insteon devices uses up about 3-6 links spaces, basic, plus one for every scene it is used in.

Weren't the earlier PLMs limited to about 256 links in their EARROM space? This sounds like the old problems returned.

My bad. I thought the thread was about him replacing the old one.

I don't believe this to be completely correct. Every Insteon device contains a link or many links that only address the current PLM IP address. When you chage that PLM IP address, every device needs to be reprogrammed to the new PLM to be able to communicate back and forth. The comms between any Insteon devices an another Insteon device (including the PLM) is/are scene link(s) for each logical portion of the device. ie: statuses, commands from other and every ISY and device scene it is involved in.

It isn't that bad but when you do this once in a decade and there is not a lot of docs on a recently updated feature (as CPU based tech is these days, especially UDI products). Once you figure out the process on the first one and go with it, it accelerates. IOW: My experience may be biased because I am a sucker for "bleeding edge". UDI has so much more techie labour assistance, these days.

For AC operated devices it is very easy with ISY tools. With battery operated devices it is a PITA. Each one needs to be put into linking mode and done individually. Until they are converted they will stall the process until each one's process gives up repeatedly. With 12 x MS-1s and 5 leak detectors, on batteries it usually took me the whole 8-10 hour day.

A common problem was oxide on the SD card contacts. Try a white pencil eraser to buff the gold contacts on the card and maybe after or instead use a q-tip with rubbing alcohol (99% is best) on it to scrub the gold SD card contacts. Contact cleaner is best if you have it.

@salex319 It seems the REST interface information has gotten worse over the years. A few years back the security information technique was removed from the wiki and now it reads like a bunch of gooble-dee-gook IMHO, with no clear method exposed to actually use the REST interface. Here is the python code I use to talk to ISY to set STATE variables. Note the security encryption needed to authorise ISY to accept the REST commands. NOTE: Most browsers will not allow this style of password encryption anymore but programming coding these URLs works fine with ISY REST interface. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- # Python3 program to stuff four ISY variables with your external polisy IP Address # by larryllix @ UDI forum, Last updated January 2, 2022 import base64 # polisy parameters needing to be setup username = 'xxxxxx' password = 'yyyyy' ISY_IP = "localhost:8080" # ISY variable location to be defined by user # ISY varPage: 1=Integer, 2=State ISYvarPage = 2 ISYvarAdd = 72 def send_ISY_var(page, address, value): authorize = base64.b64encode((username + ":" + password).encode('utf-8')) url = "http://%s/rest/vars/set/%s/%s/%s" % (ISY_IP, page, address, value) try: request = urllib.request.Request(url) request.add_header("Authorization", "Basic %s" % authorize.decode('utf-8')) r = urllib.request.urlopen(request) bak_msg = r.read() except: print("*** IPscraper: ISY send failed!") r.close() return # accessing IP address code removed (here) for clarity of REST send code # Send the variables to the ISY variables via ISY rest send_ISY_var(ISYvarPage, ISYvarAdd + 0, urlBytes[0]) send_ISY_var(ISYvarPage, ISYvarAdd + 1, urlBytes[1]) send_ISY_var(ISYvarPage, ISYvarAdd + 2, urlBytes[2]) send_ISY_var(ISYvarPage, ISYvarAdd + 3, urlBytes[3])

I have found different code techniques are required for so many different versions of the MagicHome/LEDenet bulb versions. Some of the newer bulb versions have simulated candlelight flickering built into the bulbs. White temperature adjustable LED lamps and some bulbs require a different technique where the white blends use a brilliance parameter and white temperature balance parameter instead of discreet CW/WW values. The PG3 NS may not support some of these versions. I have had to make many adjustments to my code many times when purchasing a new batch of bulbs. Mine vary from v1 to v10. Have you added new bulbs recently?

I use STATE variables to trigger almost all lighting scenes, also. When I want to "borrow" a lighting setup (eg: flash lights) I only need to save the existing value, replace with another value, and then after a delay replace the original value back into the control variable. Also, with mostly WiFi lighting, with no available feedback, I always know what the last lighting scene I left things at is. Using STATE variables for lighting controls makes things so easy to program, from multiple sources, once the bank of drivers is created and tucked away in a folder.

You can comment lines between lines and also comment the whole program. These are found in different portions of the edit boxes.

Confused me also. Is there a new skill being released or not?

Ditto here. Paddle switches cannot set colour schemes and 5 different lighting levels using combinations of lamps and levels for various usages. When I go to bed at nights, I would have to pull chains on 15 different lamps to turn them off, or use one vocal... ....Alexa, turn off inside lights.

Also IoX has a nice provided feature to copy'n paste your programs to this website. It makes it much easier for posters to read and understand. Right click on the program name in the tree, and select copy to clipboard in the falldown menu, then paste it into the code option box in your post.

Have you tried a factory reset on the MS first before attempting linking?

I only have two bulbs controlled by Insteon left now, after moving. However, I have about 20 WiFi operated RGBCW/WW bulbs throughout my apartment now. These run on LEDenet/MagicHome protocol, for which I wrote my own drivers that self-adapt to many different bulb revisions, including some White (CW+WW) only floor stand LED lamps. WiFi bulbs present no flicker right down to 1% brightness and are great to be able to adjust the colour temperature from about 2100K to 6500K. I use ISY programs to automatically dim them down from more daylight colours down to a orangey warm white, as the evening gets later and we do notice a difference in bed times lately.

Most LED bulbs do not offer enough leakage to maintain the dimmer circuit inside the control device. The dimmer has no waveform to lock onto for timing and when it shuts off the LED bulb circuit leakage then accumulates somewhat and the dimmer attempt to turn on again. A small incandescent bulb mixed in or wiring one of the small capacitor devices across one lamp socket usually fixes the problem. I bought a few packages of the Warm-Glow bulbs but they were the worst I have ever tried with an Insteon SwitchLinc dimmer. They would only turn on reliably at about 45% brightness. Home Depot refunded my money. HD has since discontinued all Philips bulbs in my area, Ontario, Canada.

I do not have an eISY, but two polISYs and they get warm also. I found routers that would crash on warmer summer days despite A/C in the house but, standing them vertically worked very well for increased cooling. I have several USB run muffin fans that I plug into other boxes to keep them cool. One was created out of surplus 12Vdc desktop box fans, however two are attached by permanent wiring, and one was purchased with USB attached from amazon. If there is cooling holes in the bottom, devices can lay flat on top of the 5 inch muffin fans with some standoff spacer legs.. The attached double units have a speed switch that was inside the media PC's case. I just run the fan on the low speed. It's enough to move the air.

I have a Govee Tower Fan, a Remote BT only Thermostat, an LED Array Curtain, and a LED String. Only one Govee devices could ever be found. I believe it found the LED Curtain initially until I installed the LED String. Then it switched over to that. I concluded the Govee NS could only handle one device at a time.