larryllix

Yeah, I moved and downsized, but it saved me a bulk package of batteries every year and the hassle of changing some of them on ladders.

The ISY Portal can only use analogue values to be accepted as motion detectors and door/window detectors as binary values. However, several analogue point levels could be converted to binary values and perhaps used by Alexa from that driving a series of events/routines.

Sure. EISY can do all basic math and a few advanced math functions. and send the results almost anywhere. Much easier to program than an arduino unless you are familiar with the system.

I use many MagicHome WiFi RGBCW bulbs. When I changed routers (ASUS) , despite all he same SSID name, password and security protocol (WPA/WPA2), all the bulbs needed to be reconnected with the new router. IMHO, there has to be some other security detail that is never discussed inside the WiFi protocol. When I changed the router back (Netgear) later the same thing occurred. In short: maybe try factory resetting each bulb and reconnecting it to the new router.

Your logic and troubleshooting sounds good. Try using the reverse logic as such: And 'Generic / Rachio-Sprinkler' Watering is Not On

If 'Generic / Rachio-Sprinkler' is a program can it be 'off' status?. How long will the status of the door open sensor be 'On' and will it ever coincide with the following line?

Try turning your output powers to about 25% and check again. Some of these router's antennae cannot handle that much power without distorting the waveforms IMHO, and work much better with less power output. Alternatively, try turning down just the 5GHz strength and leave the 2.4GHz turned up.

It says it is for motors so it should work. For the MOV, it is a small flat lollipop shaped item that would require a space inside the motor or even a large size plug. I assume there are no terminal blocks involved in the wiring somewhere? For contacts it's the current that is critical for turning things on and running. It is the voltage that is critical not to arc across the contacts for turn things off. Motors are a biotch for both aspects. We dealt with a lot of DC devices so a 240 vac contact would suddenly be rated at 24vdc max. I watched a few contacts melt before my eyes while new engineers discovered this the hard way. High voltage DC contacts (yeah 120vdc was 'high') involved magnets to attract the arc into quenching cages and other magic. As @ELAposted above the Insteon specs have always been missing the full spec., hiding the motor/inductive capacity of their devices.

I use scenes and programs like this, Alexa...turn on xxxx lights Alexa...turn on dim lights Alexa... turn on very dim lights Alexa...turn on TV lights (slowly dims and colour tunes bulbs before bed every 30 min.) Alexa...turn off xxx lights These all control programs that may operate scenes and/or WiFi bulbs together. Create scenes with useful levels, as needed, and work with them.

Typically, in industrial electronics, contact devices have two current ratings, one for resistive loads and one for inductive loads. Since you are controlling a motor, you have an inductive load and the rating of the contacts should have been stated as much lower. This is due to, as @Brian H posted above, when you break the current flow to an inductor/motor, it has an 'electrical inertia' that doesn't want the present current to change and results in an inductive voltage spike coming from the load. When the contact opens the current will tend to keep flowing and will arc across the contact until it extinguishes or the contact either melts together or melts itself clear. When replacing the device I would install some heavy duty MOVs across the motor windings, to absorb some of this counterEMF that the motor may produce. The common ones I have dealt with mostly were rated at 20,000 joules @ 220V. You must remember it has to withstand the peak of the 120v waveform. 130v x 1.414 = 183v

There is a file in the ISY that dictates the UUID number that acts up with some older ISYs. UDI had a fix for me. I can't remember how but one module needed to be updated or retimed.

IIRC Alexa boxes have a detector for emergency style alarm detections (by sound). My Wyse cheapie cameras do. How reliable they are, I do not know but with Alexa it would be easy to get the signal into ISY wonders.

The only thing I control with my Alexa speakers are ISY programs, and then they can operate, and do, whatever I want them to. All devices have the same vocal syntax ...Alexa, Turn On dim lights ...Alexa, Turn On very dim lights ...Alexa, Turn On bright lights ...Alexa Turn Off all lights ...Alexa, Turn On Christmas lights ...Alexa, Turn on TV lights ...Alexa, Turn On red lights No set or level commands ever used. It keeps it simple and easy to remember.

I didn't think the ecobee remote sensors send a battery voltage. My stats just report no response from a sensor when the battery gets too low. That indicates to me it's just a time out lack of response.

Either way you will likely have purchase the USB to microIDE adapter. I did this to upgrade my polisy and I can't believe how easy it was. The adapter was about $11 CAD and came in 2 days from Amazon without Prime. The hardest part was taking the screws out of the case and putting them back in again. Sent from my SM-S711W using Tapatalk

I would say the latest release has changed a lot. However not using the high-res capabilities of a monitor can resolve their bugs.

Just plain white. I try to focus mainly on PLA+ as it prints better, is tougher, and stronger. After being told by so many I broke down and bought a filament dryer. Makes a big difference to printing, especially the ones claiming to be vacuum packed, etc..etc... Likely the wrong way to pack anything in a bag that draws in moisture inside the bottom of a cargo ship witting in the ocean during a pandemic. Inflated bags would likely work better. Now I dry them all as soon as I receive them. My son printed a nice one of a grandson and you would swear you can see the colour of his eyes in it despite all white filament. I have found the curved lithophanes are best about 120 degrees. Any flatter, they fall off the bed while printing. Any more arc, they cannot be seen from one viewpoint.

I started Christmas 2022 with a Ender3 S1 Pro, and love it also. I recently bought my son one to get him off a politics obsession and he loves it now too. I never hear about political garbage anymore. It has a feeling of being in control of everything. I have created many gear toys for myself and children, as well as many useful hooks and gifts. My son then designed and printed a replacement gear for his son's 12V car. If you haven't tried them yet, try making a lithophane. There is a website that creates patterns for them out of photographs, complete with a frame of your choice. People are fascinated with them when you gift them one. Make sure to use a fairly high-res photo, after cropping. https://www.lithophanemaker.com/Curved Lithophane.html#processing After a lifetime of 2D CAD I tried freeCAD and after two weeks of frustration and failure, I tried my same project on TinkerCAD. It took me about 20 minutes to complete the project. Its a totally browser run, cloud based, free, CAD system, very simple looking but can do a lot in a few minutes.

I have noticed many new and "renewed" laptops for sale now with some very impressive specs for the cheap prices coming with Win 10. However I played the "core count" game instead. Trying to speed up some 3D printing and CAD processes lately.

That doesn't adjust the fonts at all despite it professing to adjust most. They do state "most" though. It's seems to be mostly system app fonts are the problems. Temporarily, I have reduced my pixel density (such a waste), reduced my display zoom from 200% down to 150%, decreased my fonts size to 140% and things are readable in most app I have seen so far. It seems MS has obviously made a previous attempts to fix this in Win 10 with the display zoom adjustment but never got to their system apps to make them listen to their new UI (yeah, I got similar ongoing same style upgrade problems for android mobile) ...

I just purchased a new Windows 11 laptop with a higher resolution screen. 2560 x 1960 pixels. This has been a problem for a few decades where MS has been too lazy to update apps, especially system apps, to se the magnification and font size settings. As a result I have given up and reduced my screen resolution down to 1920 x 1200 (16:10 still). After spending a few days researching this with MS support and many other forums I find nobody really has any answers to fix this. This problem became very apparent with Windows 10 (maybe XP) and seems to just coincide with higher resolution screens. Is this this just a result of MS being too lazy to address this properly in their Win O/S line apps? In past years many O/Ses had font size adjustments in every app (Android, and iOS), not being decent operating systems that provide centralised and global settings. for hardware independence, like a real O/S should. It seems MS made a poor attempt o fix this with font and display size scaling but never patched many of their apps to use these settings so a magnifying glass has to accompany newer high res screens and monitors. Are these expensive O/S writers just completely lazy, they attempting to nickel and dime users with aftermarket "hack" apps to fix some of these quirks, or do they just not give a shlt about their user base? Much of these things existed before they removed them. I am missing something or is this just a problem with many others? Did I just waste my money on a higher res screen that cannot be of any usage?

The difference is "status" vs "control" verbage. "Switched" is a bit of an assumption by users now.

If your polisy BIOS is too old things may not update and brick the polisy. @Michel Kohanim gave me a link to a USB/micro -IDE programmer on amazon. I removed the SSD inside the polisy and ran the programmer with image he supplied and my polisy came right up. Then I updated to the latest version and I was back in business. IIRC the USB/microIDE programmer adapter was about $11 CAD. Contact UDI support, and open a ticket. They will help you through it pronto.

Remove the system and give a rebate. We have seen this before and it usually doesn't result in a happy ending.

So far I prefer WiFi devices. WiFi is continually being expanded and improved and well supported with hardware and software in so many places. THe only thing I have noticed is with the MagicHome/LEDenet bulbs that they can have more problems when mounted upside down. WiFi signals are polarity sensitive and WiFi bulbs may not function properly when mounted upside down. Just kidding.. ... bulbs mounted with their heat sources underneath their electronics usually have shorter lives. I have had a few that began acting strangely and had to be replaced over the last 3-4 years. However, my dozen or so other WiFi bulbs, mounted with electronics down have never had problems for about 4-5 years now. And...you require a router that is not twenty or thirty years old and not able to handle many devices (my ASUS router drove me around the bend for 3 years not randomly disconnecting from random bulbs and other devices)