larryllix

If you haven't factory reset a new Insteon device before connecting to your ISY box , do it. This should always be done for any Insteon device, otherwise you have no idea what they will do in some cases. I have had statuses reporting backwards a few years ago. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

There shouldn't be a problem. However, I like to offset times to 5 to 10 seconds later, because there may be a lot of processing going on at top of the hours inside ISY machines. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Reading the live voltage through a bulb will read the same on a sensitive multimeter. Are the two switches wired to both the same black power and white neutral wires? Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

That would be a double contingency and not likely to ever be a problem unless having no water pressure could cause a problem. Having said that, closing the valve at each end of any water system/vessel can cause problems with built up pressure that has no place to go except to burst something in the system. I also suspect that with the ISY disappearing out of the formula the All-on problem has disappeared. It has been noted, in the past, that no other Insteon controlled systems ever reported this problem. I am not sure if that was true or not.

Alexa! I have half a dozen GH devices in my junk box and after using both I found GH made too many mistakes by using assumptions on what you said and what you meant to say. In the beginning AFAIC, GH was way ahead of amazon but later the Alexa speakers seemed to surpass GH and I discontinued usage of mine. Now I only use Alexa speakers, however their original intent seems to be slowly sliding into place, as they start to slip advertising into your home. You can disable most of the annoyances but, like every other business, they upgrade the software with new features and always enable them until you get annoyed enough to find the new option and disable it. We're just renting this equipment and have no rights to say what goes on it. LOL As another note: Amazon speakers (not the version 1) have another band they support and may attempt to allow outside connections to your WiFi service. Last I looked you can turn that feature off. It tries to create a network using two frequencies, 800 MHz and 400MHz. I can detect both on a scanner, when that feature is enabled. WE have been asking for a lot of language translations lately and the Amazon Show has been very useful showing the text along with the pronunciation. 8" is the smallest you want as the 5" is almost unreadable like a cell phone across the room would be.

Most don't like to be facing downward or in restricted confined spaces. This can be really bad for pot light styles mounted in insulated ceilings. I burnt my hand on one attempting to unscrew it. The face was fairly warm but the back side, once it fell into my hand, was extremely hot, and I had to toss it onto a chair and then race down the ladder to save the leather from being scorched. The heat drifting up into the electronics of downward facing bulbs, seems to be a problem and will shorten the life of the electronics. I prefer to use WiFi bulbs as they can be turned on at 1% without any problems. Insteon dimmed bulbs (or any externally dimmed bulbs) cannot typically be dimmed below about 15 to 20%. Note: With my Magic Home WiFi bulbs, and my own software, I found one position tended to disconnect from the WiFi on an annoying frequency. After switching several bulbs and experiencing the same problem, I discovered I could, and was, overdriving the downward facing bulb causing the electronics to fail due to overheating. I was illuminating the Cool White LED to 100%, and also the Warm White LED to 50%, simultaneously, giving 150% of the rating of the bulbs and over heating the electronics. Lowering the combination to 100% fixed the problem.

I remember we found if you unlinked the app for too long, and Alexa caught you, all the routines using the pseudodevices, may become disabled due to devices MIA. Short deletes and rebuilds seemed to be OK for device control mostly.

I had the same thing happening a few times, lasted for a few months and then started working again. However if you deleted your account connections or you deleted all devices in ISY Portal the routines all get disabled, after Amazon discovers the devices don't exist.

Status and controls are different Insteon channels/connections. Try doing a Restore on each device, one at a time. Sometimes one connection can be lost or scrambled in your PLM or devices. Restore usually repairs that by putting what ISY thinks should be back into your PLM. Right click on a bad actor device name and select Restore from the falldown menu.

Not lately but some items that may be factors. App likes to disable the routines on updates. Changing status of pseudoDevices too fast. I found operating a device would sometimes lock itself or another pseudoDevice out for 30 seconds as stated by Amazon, initially. Each time I complained to Amazon they reported looking into it, and then it would start functioning again, but they never reported back with any bugs or findings to me.

You need to delete the IoX Launcher from the permanent files in Java under a different tab in the Java setup. Not in front of my computer so I don't know the name. I did post screenshots of this a few weeks ago. This has recently changed and the temporary files deletion does not do it any more. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

#2. Both names have three out of four words the same. I don't think the Alexa parser can arbitrate those properly 100% of the time. Although I always like to end with the device type eg: "Lamp" I would try shortening the vocal identifiers like maybe.... John's closet Dog's closet When you are done, find the device list in IIRC ISY portal and delete names that are redundant. There was never a clean-up phase and clutter may confuse Alexa vocals. There used to be a delete all, option whereas after, you can use the "discover", Alexa command to get a clean slate.

You are using "switched On". This can never work. The program If section is using two trigger events that will each call attention to the program for evaluation, but never simultaneously, so the other line will always be false. It takes all lines to be True to make an AND logic resultant True.

Basically you don't. I avoid most Insteon scenes for several reasons. Programs give so much more control and most of my lights are WiFi bulbs. I don;t use ramping as the bulbs only contain one fast ramp...about 1.5 seconds. Lights do not need to verified if they are on. When you turn the bulb on, it doesn;t matter what state it was in before. With my software I load up to ten variables with values of the bulbs, that just happen to to be the last octet of their IP addresses, the level parameters for colour, RGB Level, WW level, and CW level, and then run one NR to send the commands to my software inside my polisy. That software sets the list of bulbs up to the levels and then turns them all on at in rapid sequence so it appears they are completely synchronised to the human eye. ISY control whatver goup/scene it wants dynamically with no preset configurations.

yes. One of my older ecobee 4s had a switch on it to disable the speaker or the microphone. Alexa microphones don't work well against a wall. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

The thermostat can do all that without ISY programs. You could create 12 different climates and assign them to 12 different parts of the day, switching which sensors are averaged into the temperature sensed for every climate programmed. Fan control cycling is also controllable separately for each climate programmed. I am not sure about changing the sensor selection via the node server and I am away from my polisy now. A other feature is 'follow me where the sensors switch ti whatever room you are in. They contain motion sensors also. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I use variables to automatically adjust lighting in our apartment also. I have one command preset Alexa... turn on TV lights that starts with most lights on 100% cold white and some lamps, visible to our eyes, while watching TV about 50% of that brightness level. At select times, ISY dims these 10 lamps and slowly changes the colours to warm white until about 11:00 PM. We have found with the slow dimming and colour changing of the lights, we tend to go to bed much earlier than before the auto-dimming, and typically feel better in the morning. If at any time somebody wants to do crafts or read where more intensive light is required, we have another vocal command Alexa.... turn on craft lamps! that turns on two much taller lamps with spot lighting shining down from behind our chairs and also brightens two other lamps that sit on the sides of the same chairs in question. When the crafts lamps off command is spoken, the lighting is resumed where it was found before. It is easy to remember one variable value and restore it when done borrowing the lighting. I don't use variables quite the same as @Bumbershoot does but rather as presets for programs that create scenes. Since most of my lighting is WiFi controlled these are not Insteon scenes but rather combinations of protocols to achieve these lighting scenes. My vocals control programs that change variables and banks of programs watch those variables to set levels of many lamps, RGBWW strips and bulbs. ISY is your friend. I use it for it's advanced logic.

Alexa cannot control Insteon devices directly or many other devices directly. Controlling a program gives much more control. Some of my lights are set at 50% of the value while some are set at 100%. Some are set using more Cold White LEDs and later changed to Warm White LEDs. This cannot be done using Alexa alone. What happens when the Alexa server is down? I can still control my lights with Insteon keypads, switchLincs and Insteon remotes. With an ISY program I can also change the time my lights go out depending on day of the week, when I go to bed, get up, or the weather outside. Alexa has no intelligence, only timers and basic factors.

He uses 1000 because he knows the value will never hit that number. However, everytime the variable changes the If section will call attention to the executive of the IoX operating system to evaluate the expression again. If the value evaluated is less than 1000, his program will run. It's a cheap way of saying " Watch this variable and if anything changes...."

Since I am getting partially blamed for something I may as well see if I can partially help too. Reading the thread, it sounds like there may be a combination of problems. I may be way out in Fred's left field here but... It sounds like GH may be using it's AI to make a bad guess on a device name or connection name but when it attempts to control that device ISY Portal reports back a failure but GH's error reporting is incorrectly worded and reports a "Can't Reach...", confusing the user, making him/her to think the connection is bad instead of the device is not found. This is based on other devices/programs working, and consistently not working with a particular program only. Just a theory. I would try renaming the psuedo device in ISY Portal to something completely unique, deleting it for the device list, and then re-discovering it again. I have a few GHs MIA in a box somewhere as they overstepped their bounds many times until I switched to only Alexa speakers, which didn't make such bold assumptions, calling it "AI". As an example, I found when I controlled a device with "red" in it's name GH would attempt to turn on 8 different devices that also had "red" in their names. It got real annoying finding lighting devices all over the house lit up red. Other times another device, like "blue bed lights" would get misconstrued and it would only hear "bed lights" attempting to turn on 8 different colour of bed lights at the same time. My software NRbridge would log eight different commands coming in for red, blue, yellow, orange, green, lime, purple, violet, mauve, etc. in rapid sequence, because they all contained the phrase "bed lights"

I tried some ASUS mesh routers and my system worked much better without any mesh nonsense. I found it just a way to reduce the signal levels so more units could exist in a crowded neighborhood. My working well single unit reduced it's signal levels down to barely reach across a 20 feet wide room to my wife's iPad, once it was told it was a node in a mesh system. Mesh systems not using hard connections between units are just repeaters that typically use a third frequency for a back channel. If not a more recent and top-end router they made just repeat the received WiFi packet on the same band, slowing down responses and confusing many devices with their switching nonsense. Most devices do not tolerate switching routers well when placed in a "could go either way" zone. With years of router troubles many forums claim that the Eero Mesh system was one of the worst. Just opinions and things change frequently these days. My son has a big home and installed one of these several $K systems only to find constant disconnects, some bands not available on certain floors and my laptop on 5GHz working great on the top floor, totally locked itself out on the main floor, until I power cycled his middle floor mesh router. I found my old Netgear dumb router outperformed every mesh system I have experienced. You cannot beat a single high powered router with a well placed antenna position. Keep it high and out of hard corners. Another thing I found with some was, pushing two high powered signals out of one antenna can saturate the capabilty of that/those antennae systems. Try turning your signal levels down on one band, the other band, and then both and see if it makes a difference.

Another one I remember was in an American Walmart, I asked where the "USB Memory Keys" were and about 3 separate sales persons told me they do not have such a thing. Once I found them on my own and showed them (3 behind the counter) what I was holding, they told me those were "Flashdrives" not "memory keys"

Not here. A previous forum regarding some memory key or USB device. Dongle was just becoming a common place word but the moderator did not like whatever the things was, called a dongle. Strangley enough the forum website closed up about a week later. LOL Definitions change and word meanings change with them, unfortunately. eg: "You're so badass"

I remember years back a forum admin threatened to throw me out of the forum if I used the term "dongle" again, for some plug-in device being discuss(t)ed. Sometimes, "walk away" is not the right action. "Run away" is the better action.

It seems the Encode URL option would be in order here if you want it encrypted with Basic Authorisation. I haven't been involved in this stuff for a while now but I would give it a try.