larryllix

Yes, many programs use infinite looping to create timed counters and cycle furnace fans and humidifiers etc... It will run until a power down or interrupted somehow, usually a human editing the program. Many schemes to restart these infinite loops have been used for power up conditions.

That used to not function at all.

Correct. BTW: I feel the "Repeat 1 times" construct is an incorrect syntax as "Repeat 1 times" should mean to do the enclosed line twice (the first time and then the 1 repeat) , NOT a total of once as the repeat parameter number indicates. "Do 1 times" would have been more syntactically correct.

See my inline method in the post above.

I cannot remember the exact logic but IIRC you XOR a number with 11111111111b or FFFFFFF and then add 1 ...but you still need a test to see if it needs it or you will make a positive variable negative.

Repeat while var<0 var *= -1 Repeat 1 times .....

First line to enable PG3x doesn't function. https://polisy.local:8443/rest/pg3x.enable No website found.

Behind a paywall but That is not legal in Canadian Safety Code but I thought it was or still is in some American Electrical code(s). I remember there was a difference between EMT systems and full conduit pipe also.

I suspect there was a time in history where the metal pipe and boxes were used as a grounding system and no copper conductor was required. Later this became outlawed and a separate grounding conductor was required. In @Brian H comment above we used to raise the 208v up to 216v in an attempt to make it more compatible with240v appliances (stove burners and baseboard heaters run too cool, etc..) but that made the 120v phases run at 125vac. Still within utility specs, but sure makes a lot of complaints about high voltage until people get better lightbulbs. Many bulbs didn't like the 125vac on 120vac rated bulbs and popped them after a few days to a few weeks. I am not sure how it affected the new LED bulbs. They came after my time.

I had a receptacle On/Off module go erratic and produced an Insteon Scene On command occasionally, when sent a simple On or Off. It happened about 7 or 8 times over a few years or more. Since I recognised the lighting pattern, I always thought it was just a bad program somewhere, but could never identify it's source. Eventually, I was examining my Log and found some bad packets from this particular module instead of the ACK expected from it. The time coincided with the latest erratic Insteon scene occurrence. In a first ditch effort to nail it down further, I simply unplugged the on/off module and plugged it back in again. I could not ever figure out why power failures didn't do the same thing, but years after (as I type this), I just realised that the difference may have been the inductive motor load I had plugged into it. When I did it manually, there would have been no inductive load (humidifier) attached. After power cycling the module, it never happened again for about the last 5 years. I post this example because I believe ALL ONs are just another form of Insteon Scenes, that can be produced by any module in your system. Other Insteon modules could then see this, and repeat it into the closest valid Insteon signal code. Insteon has demonstrated that it really doesn't have any signal security, despite what has ever been proposed in white papers.

The ISY Portal can only use analogue values to be accepted as motion detectors and door/window detectors as binary values. However, several analogue point levels could be converted to binary values and perhaps used by Alexa from that driving a series of events/routines.

Sure. EISY can do all basic math and a few advanced math functions. and send the results almost anywhere. Much easier to program than an arduino unless you are familiar with the system.

I use many MagicHome WiFi RGBCW bulbs. When I changed routers (ASUS) , despite all he same SSID name, password and security protocol (WPA/WPA2), all the bulbs needed to be reconnected with the new router. IMHO, there has to be some other security detail that is never discussed inside the WiFi protocol. When I changed the router back (Netgear) later the same thing occurred. In short: maybe try factory resetting each bulb and reconnecting it to the new router.

Your logic and troubleshooting sounds good. Try using the reverse logic as such: And 'Generic / Rachio-Sprinkler' Watering is Not On

If 'Generic / Rachio-Sprinkler' is a program can it be 'off' status?. How long will the status of the door open sensor be 'On' and will it ever coincide with the following line?

Try turning your output powers to about 25% and check again. Some of these router's antennae cannot handle that much power without distorting the waveforms IMHO, and work much better with less power output. Alternatively, try turning down just the 5GHz strength and leave the 2.4GHz turned up.

I use scenes and programs like this, Alexa...turn on xxxx lights Alexa...turn on dim lights Alexa... turn on very dim lights Alexa...turn on TV lights (slowly dims and colour tunes bulbs before bed every 30 min.) Alexa...turn off xxx lights These all control programs that may operate scenes and/or WiFi bulbs together. Create scenes with useful levels, as needed, and work with them.

There is a file in the ISY that dictates the UUID number that acts up with some older ISYs. UDI had a fix for me. I can't remember how but one module needed to be updated or retimed.

The only thing I control with my Alexa speakers are ISY programs, and then they can operate, and do, whatever I want them to. All devices have the same vocal syntax ...Alexa, Turn On dim lights ...Alexa, Turn On very dim lights ...Alexa, Turn On bright lights ...Alexa Turn Off all lights ...Alexa, Turn On Christmas lights ...Alexa, Turn on TV lights ...Alexa, Turn On red lights No set or level commands ever used. It keeps it simple and easy to remember.

I didn't think the ecobee remote sensors send a battery voltage. My stats just report no response from a sensor when the battery gets too low. That indicates to me it's just a time out lack of response.

Either way you will likely have purchase the USB to microIDE adapter. I did this to upgrade my polisy and I can't believe how easy it was. The adapter was about $11 CAD and came in 2 days from Amazon without Prime. The hardest part was taking the screws out of the case and putting them back in again. Sent from my SM-S711W using Tapatalk

The difference is "status" vs "control" verbage. "Switched" is a bit of an assumption by users now.

If your polisy BIOS is too old things may not update and brick the polisy. @Michel Kohanim gave me a link to a USB/micro -IDE programmer on amazon. I removed the SSD inside the polisy and ran the programmer with image he supplied and my polisy came right up. Then I updated to the latest version and I was back in business. IIRC the USB/microIDE programmer adapter was about $11 CAD. Contact UDI support, and open a ticket. They will help you through it pronto.

Remove the system and give a rebate. We have seen this before and it usually doesn't result in a happy ending.

No screenshots. Right click on the program title in the program tree and select "copy to clipboard" Then paste it into a code box in your post. '<>' All the details will be there and the format much clearer.