larryllix

The instructions and description talk about setting up the app to control it with screen shots of the status of the garage door. There is also mention of making sure your WiFi is connected first. There is also no terminals shown to connect a dry contact to, shown or mentioned. The whole thing seemed to contradict itself...so I am confused.

Cool gadget but I can't see any difference between that and the existing myQ controller. Is there any local API for it?

A WiFi router and an Insteon FilterLinc. That thing destroyed my Insteon system down to about 25% comms.

You only show one program running. What happened when you tried my suggestions?

ISY doesn't have a command line interpreter or an OS that you can use. Just a real time execution handler.

Welcome back!! With your ingenuity, you belong here!

NIce! Did you know you can right click on each program icon and select "copy to clipboard", then paste into your post? It may have been less work for you than all that html, and avoids copy over errors.

Sorry. I can double unzip your files down into programs but they are all encoded into script and would take days to decode manually. Watch your program icons for flickering colours. You only appear to have 16 programs.

The log does not show WiFi devices, only Insteon etc.. You have a program that is in a tight loop, oscillating. This is usually caused by triggering a program by the same device you are controlling in the same program. Look for devices in your If sections that are sensing status. Look at your program tree and look for flickering program icons. Also look in the program summary page, click on the last time run title to sort them by time, and suspect the top few programs.

Just a notion with trying to fix some of my own odd snags.. Did you have a power outage a few days ago? How many devices does your router report are connected when you open it's webpage?

With the ecobee NS you can just watch "Hold" or a few other parameters. The "Schedule Mode" will change from "running" to "hold" if somebody changes a setpoint. Hold will cancel upon user programmed 2 hours, 4 hours, next climate type change, or stay permanently.

If you use voice commands to change your stat setpoints via ISY then ISY already has it's own confirmation immediately. The three minute max update time is for changes done on the stat. As others point out, use your smart stat's programming instead of turning the dial up and down manually and use a password on the setpoints. I only change climate types on never play with setpoints from ISY. It's safer to select from preselects. If a change in setting is detected just cancel it via ISY. Then a few minutes of delay should not be paramount. The ecobee NS indicates a change so many ways that can be cancelled without even knowing a setpoint.

Nope. It is much more complex....I have to follow Alexa / ISY Portal syntax. Alexa..... turn off alarm! but then you have 10 seconds to follow it up with a proper password command.

I doubt ISY will ever see multipermission levels on the current box or underlying OS. UDI is busy porting ISY to polisy and HTML5/CSS/js and a third party OS.

I use Alexa commands to activate my security system and deactivate it now. Works better than the keypad when you have your hands full. I don't use routines for any sequences. I prefer ISY for that as @Goose66does.

Ever think about cutting his web access off in your router? Most routers have complex routines that can cut off/restrict/block by IP address, URL, timeframe, wording etc.. combinations. It might be easier to just kill his MAC address at bed times. I don't know if they can work independently though. He certainly couldn't play multiplayer games. My kids are big on those but at 43,41 and 35 they need to find their own way now!

Nice and exactly what I was thinking but..... just thought of another method...maybe? Two programs so that the syntax would go like this. Alexa set lamp timer to 15 Sets the variable to 15 (minutes) Alexa turn off lamp - Runs Then or Else of a program labelled "lamp" The On is immediate On/Then while the Off/Else looks at the timer and if = 0 does it immediately or runs your countdown. Hopefully this could be "logic'd" out in two programs. Put the -1 line below the Off action?

Those are fuses. When the fusible link blows, the spring retracts and allows the fuse "door" to fall down, making it obviously visible to the lineman. A line surge can be absorbed by the transformer the fuse feeds, when the high voltage saturates the transformer core. This helps limit the high voltage induced into the lines going into your house also. This can cause the fuse(s) to blow sometimes when the transformer acts like a short.. There also some comm antenna on the post so the utility likely knew about it within minutes. See the small loops in the end of the fuse? The lineman will use a switch stick, a long fibreglass stick with a hook at the end, to close the fuses after replacing the fusible element. This gives him/her some distance from the blast, should the fuse blow again. Some fuses have explosive powder in them to accelerate the speed of the gap widening upon a fault. This reduces arcing in the fuse element. You don't want to be close to them when the explosion happens. Just looking at Teken's video. That is what happens when the explosive element doesn't fire in a fuse. There was no transformer there, (possibly a "metering unit" with very small transformers/CTs) just a failing fuse. Underneath was a three phase riser where the phases would go from air gap insulation into insulated conductors to go into the ground somewhere. The insulators have some semi-conductive material inside to adapt the change in impedance from free air conductors to a "shielded" conductors. Sudden impedance changes tend to make lightning and surges reflect back down power lines and cause standing waves, which can increase the voltage of the disturbance.

I have used a few methods to avoid negative tallies. Here is the simplest. Meter Output - [ID 0010][Parent 000E] If Elk Zone 'Water Meter' is Violated AND $Water_Remaining > 0 Then $Water_meter_daily += 1 $Water_meter_Monthly += 1 $Water_Meter_Output += 1 $Water_Remaining -= 1 $Water_meter_Monthly Init To $Water_meter_Monthly $Water_meter_daily Init To $Water_meter_daily Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

The phrase is incorrect and should have read. "The program's conditions can be reevaluated each time a Wait statement is encountered" Unless some trigger is involved, nothing is re-evaluated anywhere. ISY is a trigger based engine from end to end.

Right click on your program, copy to clipboard, and then paste here.

I played around with the SET verb in the ISY Portal thinking I could create a variable timer in ISY programming. It can be done but the verbal needs to include the word PERCENT and sounds clumsy. Alexa ...set lamp off to 32 percent Can cause a "lamp off" named variable and cause a device to turn of after a 32 minute timer.

Alexa has a sleep timer but I am not sure whether she will use it on devices. It works on cloud music she plays. Alexa... play some sleeping music. Alexa. set a sleep timer for 30 minutes. Alexa will respond with a confirmation of turning off the music. I would use ISY so haven't tried it.

All my lighting devices, including ApplianceLincs, OnOffLincs, LampLincs, SwitchLincs are mostly all original from six years ago (Jan 2014) . I have had one OnOffLinc module send out bad codes, instead of NAK, which a simple power cycle cured for about three years ago. Other than that no basic lighting modules have ever given me problems or needed replacing. However, I had had a SynchroLInc burn out, a KPL act up when new and was replaced, 3-4 MS I units go nuts/bad and need replacing, a iRLinc came with reversed sensor wiring and also would never program from ISY, but never any basic lighting or appliance components became questionable. What else would basic lighting components ever want? Temperature sensor functions that show the internal heating of the electronics? Power consumed of the 100 Watt bulb screwed into the fixture connected? An occupancy sensing SwitchLinc Dimmer?...OK I'll give you that one. While I agree SmartHome has really become a deadbeat company, what we really need is the fancy stuff, especially battery operated devices instead of the junk they accept from Chinese developers, with no QC at all. I won't go into a gadget company trying to understand what a thermostat is supposed to do.

Did you .... Alexa...discover ? Sent using Tapatalk