larryllix

One more try before you get too crazy. You may have a bad load in your admin console. Close it and load it again.

No. Mine are all Insteon. This seems to warrant opening a Ticket with UDI. I would be sure @Michel Kohanim can fix you up, diagnose further, and want to see this.

Here is what the pulldown menu should look like. You may have to "remove from folder" before deletion. This option has changed over the years.

I think you may have misread the queries. "What do you see when you right click on the other devices in that folder? "

Click/select on the device in the admin console device tree. Press the delete key. ISY will look a after all the links. If you don't have a keyboard use whatever you do, equivalent to a mouse right click, and select delete from the dropdown menu. Sorry. I don't use touchpads.

To each his own but I don't know why people make things so complicated with complex and obscure Insteon scenes (from Hub experiences) when they have a smart box like ISY994. Just create a single scene for each button LED and a program that turns on that scene on and off from the button signals. Each LED is individually controllable, and no complex cross switching logic is needed. If these LEDs were enabled to receive external signals properly, as other Insteon devices are, no scene creation would be required at all.

I would get a new one and swap it in to prove it or not. If the problem doesn't improve, I would swap the original back in and then you have a spare for an older PLM. This is what I did and I now have a tested spare for my 6.5 year old PLM. I have never needed a replacement for my ISY994, PLM or other electronic device in my home due to PSU failure. Now I should get back to watching my round tube TV in black and white, again.

Perhaps ISY Portal is over busy with handing out signals to connected cloud services. Is there any time of day pattern you can determine?

I get that very occasionally on my Alexa units. I think it meant "I'm sorry, all our agents are busy filling online orders right now. Please try again later". Do you get it on GH also?

If amazon will give out the API for the device, then you or somebody else could write a NS for ISY or even use NRs to control it.

He already indicated it was exposed to weather.

All makes sense but it is outside exposed to some weather. Hole won;t work in this case. Inside a protective case to dissipate heat into the outside atmosphere may make more sense for this but IIRC this is an established installation. Breaking the cable in the basement and installing a control point inside on the basement ceiling may be an option.

Metal, likely being more reflective would stay cooler than solar absorbent plastic. Metal only feels hotter to the human touch due to a smoother surface making more contact and having a higher specific heat, so it doesn't cool as quickly when a cooler skin touches it.

I have no Insteon outlets but that sounds like a messed up link. Factory reset the device and then use the ISY admin console to Restore it, writing proper links back into it. If you didn't factory reset it before connecting to your ISY, this is quite common to find problems with any Insteon device.

From your local electrical utility. They can install it if they support that type of billing. If not you could likely buy your own from a supplier but the meter may cost you a few hundred bucks for quantity one. Then installing a meter base and wiring it in may cost another $500...rough guess. You would need the ISY zigbee card to talk to the meter, provided that ZigBee protocol is supported. Zigbee has had no standards until a short time ago so UDI would have to verify the standard their card supports. There are much cheaper and easier methods to get metering data if you don't need the ~ +/-1.0% energy accuracy.

The wall control has 60Hz synced time clock, an open/close button, light on/off, GDO RF control lockout, power, and a few other functions over two wires making it retro wiring compatible. That is the only reason I can think of why a simple contact input would not have been used.

I have many GH devices but if they do not get an IP address properly, they create their own WiFi that clobbers my routers on the same channels.

No Change here in Ontario, Canada. Brighten stills responds with "OK"

The ISY Portal is partially bi-directional. I do not have any active GH devices anymore, but many Alexa devices. Here is how it works with Alexa. Create a State variable for control. In ISY Portal use that State variable to create a pseudo MS In ISY Portal define what variable value will be shown as ON and Off In Alexa mobile app define a Routine using the pseudo MS as a trigger and the resultant as whatever you want it to do, voice output, device on/off etc.. I believe GH also has Routines. I hope this helps.

This may happen again. Answer @TrojanHorse's questions above. He is trying to help you avoid this in the future.

If an intermediate resultant overflows the variable, the results will be truncated at the significant end, by binary truncation. If the resultant of an arithmetic operation overflows the capacity of the variable's positive numbers representation, the resultant will appear as negative. The results of storing any number that exceeds the capacity of a variable's capacity will appear scrambled and unrelated to the user, and further calculations. AS we increase the precision used in ISY variables, the capacity for larger quantities diminishes. ISY does not support floating point. Only fixed point. It can be a problem transferring results around into different variable with different precisions in order to handle large numbers and yet preserve fraction resultants. eg: Using an 8 bit signed register, multiplying 127 x 2 will result in a -2 answer. We would expect 254, but any number with the MSbit set, will result in a negative interpretation that may confuse later calculations.

ISY precision only counts the fractional digits. Every intermediate resultant must fit in the whole number capacity of each variable. The variables are 32 bits so max is +/- 2^31 divided by the precision^10. Sent using Tapatalk

That is the way the picture and coarse description reads but the installation instructions are about setting up WiFi and the app?? Maybe they have the instructions crossed with the $79 Garadget unit??? None of this affords a status feedback. There aren't enough wire pairs. https://www.garadget.com/setup-instructions/

The FilterLinc has two receptacles on it. The bottom one filters out electrical noise from appliances, keeping the noise out of your powergrid. That is where you plug your GDO cord into. The receptacle on the back is a straight through, unfiltered receptacle where you would plug your IOlinc into. I had some random problems with my Insteon at that end of the house with my first Chamberlain GDO. I always figured it was from my inverters at that end of the house. Years later I got a second Chamberlain garage door opened with the battery backup and soft close. Then my Insteon control dropped to about 25% success so it was easy to find. A simple unplugging one found it. Then I unplugged the old AC operated GDO unit and things got even better. The motor doesn't seem to cause the problem, just the electronics doing nothing. With the battery backed-up unit I could understand it but it must be the radio power supply in the AC motor unit. Two FilterLincs solved the problem better than my system ever worked before. They are so easy to install. They look just like the older ApplianceLinc plug-ins. Good for troubleshooting Insteon problems too.

The instructions and description talk about setting up the app to control it with screen shots of the status of the garage door. There is also mention of making sure your WiFi is connected first. There is also no terminals shown to connect a dry contact to, shown or mentioned. The whole thing seemed to contradict itself...so I am confused.