oberkc

Did your program somehow get disabled? Have you looked at your program code and confirmed that it is still as you left it? I really don't have any idea why a program would quit working after a version update. I could only poke around and confirm everything looks good still, hoping to find some clue.

I have never had a new release cause a program to stop working. I also don't know of any workaround. The concept of a "scene" status has no meaning in the insteon world, so one must query individual devices. As to why your program stopped working, I can only speculate. How do you originally add the devices? When you select each device, does it show a version? Does it show a status? If you manually turn on ta given device, does the ISY status change?

Yes, it is not always obvious that the introduction of the ISY renders a good part of the instructions obsolete. Once you figure that out, things are mucheasier. Don't forget to check out the universal devices wiki. There is also an ISY user manual.

OK. That is the key finding. One of these needs to be connected to red output (switched power) of one (does not matter) of the switches. The other needs to be connected to a neutral. It is best if you can identify the proper conductor for hot. Normally, in a fixture, hot should be connected to the little tab in the bottom of the light bulb socket. If you can identify which of the wires (either 3WW or 3WR) feeds this little tab, then connect that wire to the switched output of one of your insteon switches. The other end should be tied into your neutral bundle. This is a code requirement, I understand. The purpose is to avoid energizing the shell of the sockets and minimize the risk of sjock when changing bulbs.

REmove all the bulbs from the ceiling fixture. If the fixture is between any of your switches, I would expect that you will be able to detect this because your restance measurement would go from short to open on some of your 3-conductor wires. I agree that the outlet is sure an interesting addition to your wiring. I don't believe it could be there if this were "normal" three (and four-way) way switches.

I had missed the outlet mentioned in your original post. Was the outlet controlled by the switches, also. This strikes me as quite strange. My only theory is that, as you say, someone added the outlet, but only after adding the X-10 devices. I have trouble understanding how one could power an outlet from a four-way switch box location that does not have power. Given this better understanding, considering the possibility that the fixture is, indeed, wired between one of the switches, did you take your measurements (impedence) with the fixture and bulbs in place? Have you removed the fixture to confirm the existence of two, 3-conductor cables?

I don't believe this is your setup. The 2-conductor cable in box 2 runs to the fixture. I don't believe you travellers route through the fixture box.

I believe that you can assume one of your 2-wire cables is supply, and the other goes to the fixture. If you believe (you should measure this to be sure) box one includes supply, then the cable in box 2 goes to the fixture. If the routing of the 2-wire into the bottom of the box makes you suspect that it does not go to fixture, this makes it even more important to measure things. Does the 2-wire in box 1 come into the top or bottom of the box? In box 1, you state that "travelers" (plural) are not connected. Which are the travelers? In box 2, you state that switch red is to red. Which one (are there not two?) Regardless, this would be incorrect. If, as I suspect, box two has the feed to the fixture, then switch red should be connected to the black from the 2-conductor cable. How did you confirm this? As I understand your wiring description, red would NOT be neutral...white would be. Your lighting circuit does not work because it is not wired correctly. None control the light, because you have none connected to the light. I suggest removing everything and starting over. Expose all the wires, none touching another. Temporarily energize the circuit and measure which have power. Identify where the remaining wires go. Diagram it on paper. ONce you understand the wiring, reconnect everything, keeping black as supply, white as neutral, using red where necessary.

The reason to use control condition is that a control will trigger a program evaluation upon EACH receipt of the anticipated command. Unlike control, a "status" condition will trigger an evaluation only after a CHANGE in status. If a device status is off, and you turn it off again, the status has not changed and no program evaluation will take place.

I assume box 1 includes supply (2-conductor), box two has the 3-conductor cable from box 1 and box 3, plus the switch power to the fixture, and box three is just the end of the three-conductor cable. I am hoping you can confirm these assumptions on site. If so, in box 1, connect supply black (hot) to 3-conductor black and to switch black. connect supply white to 3-conductor white and switch white. Cap red from switch. Cap 3-conductor red. In box 2, you now have supply provided by the black and white from the 3-conductor cable from box 1. Connect this to the other 3-conductor black and white, as well as to the switch black and white. Connect 2-conductor white to the other whites. Connect 2-conductor black to switch red. Cap remaining red conductor. In box 3, you now have supply provided by black and white conductor from box 2. Connect switch black and white. Cap red from switch and cable. ALL switches must be insteon if you want control from all three locations. All bare grounds should be tied together in each box. Again, confirm the wiring on site. Best to use a volt meter.

Certainly a factory reset on the devices will eliminate all traces of your PLM and ISY. My suggestion is to try a quick attempt at establishing communication with your plm. Try moving it to where you had your smartlinc. Feel free to use an extension cord, if necessary. Hopefully, it will work better. If it does work better, you can try "removing" each device from the ISY. It is hard to know if this will work. The difficulties you have experienced may have corrupted some of your devices. If removing the devces does not work, a factory reset of each may be your only option.

Make sure you put your smartlink back in its original location. I suspect it, too, will have difficulty at the location where you added your ISY. Were you to put the ISY where you had your smartlinc, you may find the problems go away.

I am with LeeG on this. I, too, believe you have a communication issue between your PLM and rest of your system. This tends to suggest that the PLM is plugged into an outlet or circuit with other things that don't play well with insteon. My impression is that the most common cause of this is plugging in the PLM into outlets near computer stuff, including surge suppressors, UPS, and lots (and lots) of other gadgets. If you are having trouble communicating with the PLM, then...yes...it will probably be easier to manually link your devices and ignore the PLM. Once you figure out the PLM, however, I respectfully disagree that this method is easier. I assume that you transitioned in order to exploit some capability in the ISY that is lacking in the smartlinc. I am curious, however. Did you install the ISY/PLM in the same location as the smartlinc?

I don't mean to overly stress these types of questions, but I think it worth spending time thinking through how you intend this sytem to work. Answers to these questions will affect how you program things, and you can waste a lot of time coming up with programs that you quickly discover "don't work" as you intended, because you didn't give enough attention to your "intentions". It is a lot like "ready, fire, aim". What if the livingroom lights are at some setting other than 50% because someone manually adjusted them for some reason? what about 10%? 80%? 1%? Do you want the living room lights to go full on only if they at that magical 50% level, or any level greater than zero? Or any level greater than 50%? Most of the program suggestions so far are based on the first option. OK...you bring up another consideration...do you want the livingroom lights to respond to kitchen lights only if they are at 50% AND only if they reached that state in response to the kitchen lights turning on? Or do you not care how the livingroom lights came to be on, whether manually or in response to a program? There are a variety of conditions one can use to check for such things, but one condition that does NOT exist is "scene status". There is not status for any scene, such as your livingroom scene. Typically, one would have to check for the status of a selected device within that scene as a representative status. Another condition that could prove to be handy here is in program status (true or false). This represents the results of the most recent evaluation of a given program. For example, if you have a program who's else statement turns on livingroom lights as a result of kitchen lights, if that program status is currently "true", then you know that the most recent execution of that program turned on the livingroom lights. I believe it worth spending more time understanding your needs and intentions before writing a lot of programs. Your particular situation is, in my mind, has a lot of subtle variations.

To be clear...when someone turns off the kitchen lights (regardless of whether the living room lights are on or off or anywhere in between), you want the living room lights to turn on to full, correct?

"Automating" the humidifier is one of those things that, to me, is a solution looking for a problem. My thermostat takes care of this. It appears to work well. Yes, it would be pretty cool to integrate HVAC with my ISY so that pressing my "away" button resets HVAC, but I otherwise percieve little value. My thermostat has all the programming I need. It handles humidity. The fan circulates the air when needed and I have control over that. I have remote access. I am not sure what other benefit I would get. It seems a lot of people do it, however. I am sure I am just missing something.

Don't wait for more problems to come back. Check in regularly, even if you don't need help. Your experience may be needed to help out another.

When I suggested to "chain" a remotelinc to the lamp, this was only half joking. At one point, I had one of those X-10 keyfob remotes, hanging from the lamp via a short loop of that light chain material often used as keychains and fixture pull-chain.

It appears to me that this combination of conditions SHOULD fire true, based on the logic. The problem is to find out why. Is it possible that the ISY does not accurately reflect the status as you believe it? Can you recreate the conditions, making sure that the ISY accurately knows all the relevant statuses (stati?).

There is not really a good way. Your fewer hop=0 messages is a good clue. The ISY has a scene test, which is a gross indication of communication goodness. This may be the closest to what you are looking for.

In addition to the remotelinc, I also use the table-top enclosures. I also have keypads mounted in wall boxes that control lighting. I use a couple of android tablets for lighting control. Ultimately, my strategy is to minimize the need for local control by programs, motion sensors, and sunrise/sunset. We just don't often need to turn on a single lamp at this point.

Chain a remotelinc to the lamp.

Xathros, You are, as normal, correct. Unfortunately, this was not a stated requirement that I noticed? Perhaps it is the engineer in my personality, but I have ceased attempting to guess people's requirements, or add my own. I try to offer simple solutions to the stated problem. If the scope of a question evolves, and I feel as if I am chasing a rabit, or if I have to start guessing at what the real (and total) requirements are, I become quickly frustrated.

I, too, had already made a suggestion, based upon your original statement that everything was working and that the only problem you were having was dimming to 50% at 1000. In case that suggestion was unclear... Create an entirely new scene, keeping intact existing scenes. The new scene would include all devices that you want to change at 1000, all as responders. At the scene level, define the ON levels (which includes zero) you desire for each device to assume at 1000. Create a program to turn on that scene at 1000. Done.

Your latest program introduces a device: 'Entry, Hallways, Steps / Entryway 8BKP'. I have no idea what that is relative to your original request. Sorry. I see nothing that turns any front porch or outside can lights off or to 50%, I see nothing that turns light back to full bright at 1 hour before sunrise. I see nothing that turns lights off at sunrise. No, I don't think this will do what you originally asked about.