oberkc

The instructions that come with each insteon are written based upon the assumption that there is NO ISY. Given that you have one, you pretty much ignore them and follow the UDI wiki and users manual for all link management activities.

I suspect that the limitation is with the insteon protocol that would make this suggestion difficult to implement. I don't use it, but there is a command to adjust devices within a scene within the ISY. Folks around here have used this to change responder levels at defined times (reduced brightness after 11pm, for example). Perhaps this would offer an opportunity to do what you desire. It would also require a program.

I can imagine only that it may increase wear and tear on the motor. Perhaps is would impact electrical use. I suspect neither will be noticable. Probably doable with variables, but I suspect the effort is not worth it. You could create a different scene with the same members (all may have to be responders, however). Adjust "on" levels to suit, such as kick lights dimmed, the rest off. Trigger this scene from a program. I think the "off" levels are not adjustable by insteon design.

I don't think iOS would support this (probably best for android) but my dream app would create a resizable widget that emulates a keypadlinc. This would include real-time status, toggle modes, etc. I want to use tablets as controllers at various places throughout the house, and don't want to have to go through multiple steps to turn a light on or off.

This does not necessarily guarantee physical proximity from a wiring standpoint. While it sounds like you have a lot of dual-band devices, have you ensured you have at least one on each leg of your electrical supply?

All "scenes" have "on" levels for each controller of the scene. When you activate the scene, are you sending an "on" command or an "off" command. Have you checked the "on" levels for each controller? Where is you ISY plugged in, and with what other devices in that outlet and circuit?

I use a computer printer and transparent/sticky media. Works on both remote and keypad. While the eventually wear, they last longer than most solutions, and are pretty easy to replace when necessary.

I use a couple of dimming modules for CFLs exactly as you describe: set to 100% with instant on. Theoretically, I understand that this may not be optimum but, for whatever reason, I found some modules worked (communicated) better than others with CFL installed. So far (five years, maybe), no fires. No failed modules. No failed lamps. Use of the module, however, minimizes the risk that they would be turned on in a dimmed state. I understand that using an actual dimmer switch for CFLs introduces a risk that someone may accidentally dim them. I suspect the consequence would be device damage or failure rather than fire, but I don't consider it worth the risk to find out. For applications where there are physical switches, I exclusively use relays where I want CFLs. I don't like CFL dimming characteristics, so anything that I want to dim I use LED or (rarely) incandescent. Now that I think of it, I don't think I have any CFLs in use any more, other than basement and garage. Everything is now LED, dimmed or not. So, I guess my advice is based upon past experience, rather than current. I have noticed some problems with some CFLs causing communication problems, but I used many at one point and still had a pretty reliable system. If I identified one lamp as problematic, I simply switched out with a different one and that usually solved the problem. The fixtures with ballasts and tubes can also be a problem, but I have several of these as well. My suspicion from experience is that they tend to get worse from age. Keep fresh lamps and ballasts, and they tend to be tolerable. My suggestion is to try them and, if needed, they are pretty easy to filter. I also exclusively use relays for the tube lights.

What is this programs' conditions? I don't see anything here obvious, but there are still a few unkowns in my mind. The thing I would be looking for is something in one of these programs ('p Office2 Sunset-Sunrise MS On', or 'p Office9 Off 2 Hr') which causes your folder condition (Program 'p Office9 Motion Timer Enable' is True) to turn false. Since these programs are not posted, I am only speculating.

I have successfully controlled lighting from a logitech remote (and others) via IRLinc. Unfortunately, it was some time ago and the specific steps are not fresh in my mind. I recall that the general approach was to program individual buttons from the remote to be recognized by the ISY, then trigger programs from those button presses. I would need to refresh my memory when I have access to the ISY. Why not add the delays to an ISY program turning on the lights?

The only problems I have had with programs were directly related to errors. I have not experienced any problems with this.

I use the irlinc with the ISY-99. It works great. I believe this is a good solution. I have not used the EZUIRT.

I don't expect that you could interface via RF, but could with IR. you would need to install an IR reciever (ISY-99ir or IRLinc) in the room where you expect the remote to work and program the ISY-99.

In similar situations around my house, I simply remove the switch, disabling local control.

Testing for a "NOT OFF" condition is a nice trick when one is using dimmers, where you want to test for a condition where the device can be at any level greater than zero. For relays such as appliancelincs, where there are only two conditions ON and OFF, I would expect that you could use: and status of coffee pot is on

Electronic devices can also attenuate, or "absorb", signals. Regardless, the consequences to your insteon system are the same and a filter will work.

In case you are interested, "noise" is not the only issue. There is much discussion about the effect of electronics devices on insteon communication and a great deal of detail that I find interesting, but of limited value from a practical standpoint, given my lack of access to the necessary troubleshooting tools. I generally think of the potential degredation of insteon communication by electronic devices as, generically, "interference". Regardless of whether it is noise or something else, my experience is like that of Brian H...yes, a filterlinc will help. Also, as Brian H suggests, trials and tests without a filterlinc(s) may reveal no problems, in which case no worries. To this I would add that I have found the problems with electronic devices can be additive. While no single device on your list may be a noticable problem, the effect of so many devices could be. Furthermore, communication failure is not necessarily catastrophic. You may simply experience reduced reliability in your communication (80% success rather than 99%). Or you may notice slow response. Having so many devices plugged into a single outlet offers the opportunity to filter a lot of devices with a single filterlinc. For these reasons, and my experience with similar electronic devices, I suggest putting them on a filter as a pre-emptive measure. You have a lot of money invested in insteon. A few, well-placed filters is cheap insurance.

Guess I forgot a word. Mount a couple of electrical boxes TO/ON/IN a board. You were correct. Yes Yes, you could use this outlet, but I suspect it may be physically blocked by the filterlinc. Consider the second outlet a spare. You may also use this second plug, but it may suffer the same fate as the second plug on the outletlinc. Spare outlets never hurt, however. Yes.

Based upon your description, I consider it highly likely that you are going to experience less-than-optimum performance from your insteon system. The PLM is the brain. It must hear everything. Furthermore, plugging your PLM into the UPS is, in my estimation, a way to nearly guarantee failure. Personally, I have added a dedicated circuit for the PLM. While I expect that this is an overkill for most applications, I believe you should reconsider your plans. My suggestion would be to use some combination of extension cords (not surge suppressor types) to ensure EVERYTHING you have on this outlet is filtered, except the PLM. Depending on your skills, perhaps you could build your own "extension cord". Mount a couple of electrical boxes a board. In one box, add an outletlinc. In the other, a standard outlet. In the outletlinc, plug in a filter, from which you could run a power strip with all your occasional electronics. In the other outlet, plug a filter, from which you would power your UPS and always-on electronics. Power this from the end of a power cord, plugged into your closet outlet. In the other outlet of your closet, plug your PLM.

I have experienced no problems using a keypad with the ISY. None. Never.

Yes. One can log into the ISY admin panel remotely. Or one can use an app such as mobilinc.

I may be able to help with a couple of these: I understand that this causes the ISY to query a particular device and display all the links stored in that device. As opposed to I understand that this displays the links that the ISY thinks is associated with a particular device. Both should be identical, but can diverge for various reasons. I believe that the ISY uses these two results in the "compare" function.

Alternatively, you can identify key devices or scenes as moblinc "favorites" and control them all from there without having to back out of devices or scenes.

In retrospect, status would not be right, either. My thoughts are now something like: from 0800 am to 1000 pm (same day) or control master keypad ... switched off or control master keypad ... is not switched on then set shade... on set master... on set master ... on else set ... off set ... off set ... off I expect a program such as this to trigger at: 0800am (evaluates true), 1000pm (evaluates false), keypad off (evaluates true), keypad on (evaluates false). This also assumes that your master keypad is a relay (not dimmer). Hopefully, this works, or give you some ideas to combine these two into a single program.

I would expect that one program would work. In this case, I would try "status" rather than "control" for your master bedroom keypad condition.