MustangChris04

Still having issues? I'm 20 minutes from Wellington and have 15 filterlincs you can borrow to see if that helps.

Found the WIKI where it says "You can try any power supply that outputs anywhere between 5 volt and 30 volts,center positive, 2mm barrel connector"

My power supply for the ISY has failed today. The green light is dim on it and keeps turning on and off. The ISY is not getting any power. I close on my house this week and everything has to be in working order so I need to replace it ASAP. I borrowed a friends power supply for their ISY but it is different. The one that I have which failed is unbranded and has a Model# HRS050050 Input 100-240V 50/60Hz Output: 5V 500mA The one he gave me says TP_Link Model# T090060-2B1 Output 9V .6A I think he may have given me the wrong supply? Or can the ISY take a range of input voltage? I'm also not sure of the tip polarity of the connection or the exact size of it. Anybody know where I can get a replacement?

I have a couple lamplincs and all of them are still applying power to the connected LED bulb when the lamplinc is turned ofd. The bulb is a standard c7 base night light and is .5 watts. I could switch to an ON/OFF module but since I have so many extra lamplincs I put them to use. It this behavior typical for such a low wattage LED?

I would think if you fully outfit your home with all dual band devices than you won't need the range extender or access points since all the other devices at the same. When I first started with Insteon I had a few for the troubled areas but as I grew my network they were no longer needed. Now that every switch, outlet, and fan are all Insteon I haven't had any signaling issues and tossed the range extenders. I'm assuming that these were first introduced during the early stages of the dual band devices since many homes already had power line only devices and when they started adding the RF devices (remotes, sensors, etc.) they needed a way to communicate with these devices or extend the range. I think a well put together Insteon network will naturally not need these. And for the price of a range extender you might as well get a lamplinc, right? I got on Amazon a hub with two lamplincs for $49. Bought several of these kits and the extra hubs have come in handy to quickly switch out so my customers don't have to wait for an RMA due to the dreaded capacitor issue.

It doesn't get hotter than 80 degrees in the room it was in. Definitely not being covered by anything, as I'd be looking for trouble doing that. Insteon sent me a replacement this time no questions asked, whereas last year it was a different story. Maybe they've seen this more often now? Even brand new out of the box the plastic is not forgiving at all, whereas the older styles are built like a tank.

It was in a closet that never saw sunlight but the plastic did behave like it was in the sun for 30 years. Smarthome had me remove the label to do an RMA and when I peeled off the label the plastic was so brittle that it broke into a hundred smaller pieces. Wasn't even 2 years old, whereas the older design that the PLM and IOLinc use is much stronger and has lasted years longer. I'm afraid of going around my house and unplugging all the other ON/OFF and lamplinc modules.

Its been a little over a year since I first posted this issue, and now we have another On/Off module gone! The first time this happened the entire body came off with the module still stuck in the wall. Now this time the body stayed together but the prongs pulled through the back. What a joke!

I recall the ISY has an area to enter the load wattage when adding a switch. Most switches are for lights or fans which have a predictive consumption. I'd love to see the ISY have an add-on energy consumption module that can calculate energy usage based on the on/off times of the switches and the defined wattage. It would be a nice step to energy monitoring using something we all already have with getting into the breaker box and adding sensors. The only thing left which is variable would be the appliances.

Besides using micro on/off modules linked to buttons on a keypad, is there any other solution for having multiple independent loads on a single switch? I wonder if Insteon well ever develop a multi-load keypad. I often run into double switches in a single gang box, typically one for the bathroom light, the other for the exhaust fan. My current solution in my house is a micro on/off to an always on current to the fan. If I want light and fan, then single tap the switch. If I only want light, press and hold. Fan only, turn on light them press and hold off to turn off the light and fan remains on. This is fine for somebody that knows how it's programmed but for the average user this is definitely not ideal. While I can change out the box for a double gang in this situation, there are times where I have a 5-gang switch bay and I need to add more switches. All can be solved with a single 8 button keypad and micro modules, but is this the best way about doing it? For example, I have a bathroom with recessed lighting, exhaust fan, shower light, two sets of vanity lighting, and a light above the toilet, all which needs to be independently controlled. I have wired all the Romex to a single junction box. I really dont want to have to put in a 6-gang box. I only want a single keypad. Are the micro units the best and only way to do this? Where do you all keep your micro units while still maintaining code compliance? I wouldn't have room in a single gang junction box, for 5 micro modules plus a switch and I can't put them in the attic. Ideas?

I'm very happy with my Nest thermostat and using the networking module to integrate. When I lock my zwave door I have it put the Nest into Away (Eco) mode.

Guess I'll be running around tomorrow factory resetting everything and then adding them to the ISY. I should invest in a Segway or one of those hoverboards... Besides knowing the Insteon ID or holding the set button, is there a way to have the controller auto discover all the devices on the network? That would save a lot of time! For the fanlincs and micro on/offs I always write down the ID before installing those. I can't tell you how many times I installed them to realize I have to go back up on the ladder and open the fixture. Learned that the hard way during my first install...

I've lost many vacuum cleaner cords due to the wife whipping the cable from around the corner to unplug it . There's only so many times you can keep bending the prongs back into position...

That is a great best practice that I use. I also information where the item was purchased and a link to a copy of the receipt. Makes it easy for the homeowner (and myself) to quickly make a warranty claim. Regarding the factory reset, do you hold down the set button to do the reset, or do you just rely on the ISY to delete the links when linking the device for the first time?

100%. I now rock the plug back and forth to pull it out because if you just pull straight out there too much friction and I don't want to break another one. I had a USB charger leave its prongs behind, stuck in the outlet. The same charger I've been using for years on a Leviton outlet. The only time I'd like an outlet to have this much grab is if it was mounted on a ceiling and I was plugging in an extension cord to use as a swing for kids.

They had absolutely no interest in discussing this any further with me or wanting any additional details. All they wanted to do was blame me for "physically damaging" the item, thus not being covered under warranty.

I just got done installing 65 switches in a new house and when I hit the breaker and everything turned on, I witnessed the strangest behavior with two of the switches. When I turned one of the switches on and off, another one on the opposite side of the house was responding to the command. These switches were brand new in the sealed box. I have no idea how two of the switches could already be linked together. I ended up doing a factory reset on both. Never seen this behavior before but wanted to know if anybody has ever encountered devices linked from the factory. I still have not plugged in the PLM or ISY, so no configuration was done.

Here's a screenshot: https://www.screencast.com/t/8d1JMBEk

Smartlabs needs to address two issues: 1. ON/OFF outlet is way too tight. It is dangerous to have to push and pull with so much force to insert/remove plus. I too have had prongs stay stuck in it. Two live exposed prongs is not a good thing. 2. Plastic on the plug in modules are too brittle. That being said, their Indian support did not handle the situation correctly and blamed the end user. If this was an issue with a Nest/Wink/Ring/ device, they would ave gladly replaced it no questions asked. I'm getting sick and tired of their support when I have the pleasure of working with other companies in the same industry that bend over backwards to make things right for the consumer.

Lilyoy1, yes it doesn't make sense to plug it into a device that already has the same purpose. Majority of my outlets in the house are Insteon except the GFCI ones. I was plugging it in so that I could link it before putting it in it's final location.

I don't see why that wouldn't work. If you have a smarthings hub at the gate, and it is networked to your LAN via the ubnt nanostations, you can use the networking module in the ISY to trigger and API query to the smart things. I'm not familiar with the smarthings API so if it was my setup I would just have another ISY at the gate, which would be on the same LAN. Then just use the networking module to query the rest API of the ISY at the gate to control the Z-wave switch.

Has anybody seen any plugin modules break apart in their hands while removing them from a wall outlet? I had two in a single day do this to me. I partially blame the ON/OFF outlet it was plugged into. Those outlets are so tight, it's extremely difficult to remove plus from them. I pulled it straight out and the case broke completely off while the unit remained plugged in. Smarthome denied my warranty request, had to speak with two supervisors, and threaten a charge back with AMEX to get these replaced.

Keypadlinc Dimmer 6 button v.41. When I had houselinc I had an option to program lock this. On v4.6.2 I do not have an "options" button to click on that would normally open a popup for the options. I know lilyoyo1 mentions that newer devices support programming lock. I'm just wondering why I was able to do so in houselinc on these same switches but not in the ISY. Or maybe my memory from that long ago serves me wrong...

Just wanted to see if adding a programming lockout is any closer to being released. My 13 month old is causing chaos in my house. Every day I come home and another switch has been reconfigured. I wasn't ready to start teaching her how to program this early... :0 There was a thread from 4 years ago about this: https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/11137-programming-lockout-on-2477d-etc/

Thanks Larry! This is what I assumed when purchasing an non-inverter type generator. I looked for a 10000 watt inverter generator and the only think I could find was purchasing two Honda generators and a parallel kit. I wasn't going to spend $10K on that because at that price I could get a true standby generator, LP or diesel and have pretty clean power. I actually asked Generac at which load the under 5% THD was measured before I purchase and they said the load didn't matter and it would be under 5% at any load. I didn't really believe this because when I asked for supporting documentation or any published literature about this they said they didn't have any. I almost purchased a WEN 13,000 for almost half the price, and their support transferred me to one of their employees that worked on producing the generator and he pulled up their tests while I was on the phone and was very confident that under 5% THD at all loads. Still don't know if I could believe that but he said he was looking right at a chart with the THD measurements throughout the load range.