
MustangChris04
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Everything posted by MustangChris04
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Is there a way to have an IF condition based on a Scene being turned on or off? I currently only see it based on a device, but not a scene. Reason why I am looking for this is when triggering a Scene through the Amazon Echo (ISY Portal), I would like a network resource to run when that scene is triggered. Normally I would just make the condition based on the button on the keypad that triggers the scene but this scene that is controlled via the echo does not have a keypad button to make a condition based on the status of the button. Thanks!
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Successfully linked ISY-Echo in one home. Fail in another.
MustangChris04 replied to DualBandAid's topic in Amazon Echo
I am getting the same error of "The ISY skill is not linked to your portal user profile" with a new install I did today. -
Is there a reason why the 2487S Dual-Band Keypadlinc on/off doesn't have an OPTIONS button at the bottom of the page, but the 2334-2 Dual Band Keypadlink dimmer DOES have the options button at the bottom of the page? Here is the keypad dimmer with the options: http://screencast.com/t/Odu2pvp7 Here is the keypad relay with the options button missing: http://screencast.com/t/cSl6l6Sk
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Issues with status updates on 2441ZTH Thermostat
MustangChris04 replied to MustangChris04's topic in ISY994
I ended up getting the Aeotec MultiSensor 6. We will see how well that works. If that doesn't work then I'll try the RPi as suggested. I'm on my 3rd Insteon thermostat. First one was DOA. Second one wouldn't go into the setup menu when holding down the program button, so I returned that for my third one. Smarthome support had no idea on the specs for the power supply, so I found on their website the power supply that is 6V, 900mA. Purchased a supply at that rating and the thermostat keeps turning on and off. Ended up using batteries but it doesn't report the status. I have at minimum 10 dual band devices within a 10ft radius of the thermostat. -
I purchased a battery operated 2441ZTH thermostat to monitor the temperature inside the humidor. I have programs setup to turn on the cooler when temps go over 79 and turn it off when temps go under 77. The issue is that the thermostat is not sending its temperature to the ISY when the temperature changes. For example, the ISY thinks the thermostat is at 75 but when the temperature changes to 76, 77, or 78 the temperature doesn't reflect that on the ISY. Sometimes once it gets to over 80 degrees the ISY gets updated with the temperature. Is this thermostat a total piece of **** or is something wrong with it? Are there any other options to monitor the temperature (Z-wave or Insteon) without using the solution smarthome has with the IOlink? Thanks!
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I see the same command in the log being sent in repetition 3 times in a row. Surely there would be a way to program a variable instead of hard coding it.
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"I've found several devices matching that name"
MustangChris04 replied to MustangChris04's topic in Amazon Echo
Hi Michael, Thank you for this. Can a ticket be created with Amazon to address this issue, or at least make them aware of it? -
I like the change, but the volume has to be turned up more for me to hear the tone rather than the "OK". It also appears to be delayed a bit. It used to say OK at the same time the lights responded, and sometimes before the lights responded, but now it chimes 2 seconds AFTER the lights respond.
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Yes, I just double checked, and it is March 31st. Not sure why everybody has much later delivery dates. I was pretty bummed when I saw the March 31st delivery date, I couldn't imagine having to wait until July... I ordered pretty late on March 3rd, around 6PM EST. I did spend around $50k with Amazon since last year so maybe that gives me some leverage with pre-orders...
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I have estimated delivery on march 31st, but I am considering just cancelling the order and just buying a used Echo on craigslist for $25 more. I don't know if there is any advantage to buy the Dot over the regular echo if the full version can be had for around the same price.
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Interesting. Thank you for this. I suppose that the 9% cannot be configured? With the output curve of my LED lights, I don't notice it start dimming until it is 75% or below. So I'd have to ask Alexa to dim 3 times before I even notice it dimming. Thank you. This is what I was thinking of doing to work around this, although not ideal.
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"I've found several devices matching that name"
MustangChris04 replied to MustangChris04's topic in Amazon Echo
Even after removing the other scene for "patio lights" it still responded with the "I've found several devices matching that name, which one did you mean?". I also have scenes with the following phrases: Patio Outlet Patio Fan Once I removed the "Patio Outlet" and "Patio Fan" spoken words from a different scene, it responded correctly. If I say "All Patio Lights" it shouldn't tell me there are any other devices "matching" that name just because there are other scenes that have the word "patio" in it. -
Thanks for the suggestion, I still get the same error of "That command doesn't work on device lights".
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I have a scene that controls multiple lights at the same time. The spoke name for this scene is "All patio lights" When I ask "Alex, turn on all patio lights", alexa responds with "I've found several devices matching that name, which one did you mean?". I then repeat myself and say "all patio lights" and it responds correctly. Alexa is hearing my request correctly, according to the history in the app, yet I have to repeat myself before it responds correctly. (Note: I also have a device called "Patio Light" which will turn on a single light in a scene and Alexa responds to this one correctly" Is there any way to correct this, other than to change the spoken name of the scene to something less unnatural, which will not help me with the WAF of this implementation
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I'm having an issue using the "Alexa, dim the lights to 50%" command. ("Lights" is the spoken work for the scene") I have a scene with a keypadlinc dimmer for the lights and another keypad as a controller/responder (like a 3-way). When I use the command for the scene to dim I get a response of "That command doesn't work on device lights". If I use the command "Alexa, dim the lights" the lights reduce output by about 10%. Question is, why can I use the command "Dim the lights" but not "Dim the lights to 50%"? Certainly if it responds correctly to me asking to dim the lights, it should be capable of responding to a specific percentage. Where is the dimming factor defined that is making it dim by about 10% at a time? I have to ask the Echo to dim the lights 5 times before I get to a level of around 50%. Thanks, Christopher
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Issue with device responding to scene oppositely
MustangChris04 replied to MustangChris04's topic in ISY994
Thanks Techman, this was the first thing that came to my mind so I did do this. Few days later after doing a restore, it ramdomly responded oppositely again. -
Issue with device responding to scene oppositely
MustangChris04 replied to MustangChris04's topic in ISY994
So this issue happened again last night. I came home around 11:40PM and then hit the "All Off" button on my keypad. All my lights turned off, except this Outdoor on/off module turned ON. I've run the same scenario every day for the past 6 months, and it only happened this one time. Here is the link table for that device: http://screencast.com/t/8KebIzIT9 There is also a keypad next to the on/off module that controls/responds to the outdoor module. That keypad button light was not ON, even though the outdoor module was ON. Because of this, I believe the scene would not have been activated, otherwise both the keypad button would be ON and the outdoor module would have been ON. -
Just sent. I also tried taking the name of the device and also putting that in the spoken notes box. What happens in a scenario which I have "Bedroom Light" that is a switchlinc, and I have a button on a keypadlinc that is also called "Bedroom Light" to controll the switchlinc, and I also have a scene called "Bedroom Light" to link the keypad button and switchlinc together? What device will the Echo tell the ISY to turn on/off?
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I'm checking the Alexa app and the Echo is recognizing what I am saying with 100% accuracy and the device names in question that I am trying to control match exactly what they are named in the ISY, yet the Echo keeps repeating back "I could not find device {DEVICE_FIRST_WORD}. Turn on which device?"
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It's not going to understand any device that has a space in it. Out of my 229 devices, only 3 of them have no spaces in the name (just a single word). These are the only 3 that work.
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Just purchased the portal today thinking that I could start using this, but I can't get it to work. 229 devices discovered. ISY understands it correctly as "tell izzyy to turn on patio light". But It continues to say "I could not find device Patio. Turn on which device?" Alexa is too retarded to understand anything after the space.
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I have the same problem. Could never figure it out. Completely random, but only happens once a month. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/15805-issue-with-3am-query-and-program-running/
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I recently changed all my under cabinet lighting to LEDs and it was pretty easy. I mounted them all inside a metal LED channel and spliced the LEDs into a transformer. The transformers were wired to an Insteon switch that controlled the lighting. I also added additional LEDs at the top of my cabinets to shine upwards where the crown molding is. I tapped into the power for my microwave, and used a ON/OFF lamplinc to turn the transformers on and off. I also used the same concept and added LED lighting to my friend's dock: http://screencast.com/t/6bnwrhp8g I used waterproof 5050 LEDs available here: http://www.lightingever.com/12v-led-strip-light-waterproof-150-5050-5m-ww.html (they also sell on amazon for a little more) The color temp is 3000k. I think it may be more towards 4000k. After playing around with a bunch of different transformers, I found the Meanwell ones to be the best and most reliable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IO1W38E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage The strips uses about 2.2 watts a foot, so you estimate your length and get a transformer that has a slightly higher wattage. You can cut the strips ever 3 inches, the maximum length of a single strip is 5m. I then mounted the LED strips inside a metal channel with a frosted lens from Klus Design: http://www.klusdesign.com/products/led-extrusions They have all different kinds of channels you can use depending on how you want to mount the LEDs.
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I've seen (and used) Crestron products plenty of times over the years. I do work inside professional sports stadiums, and nearly every stadium I've been to uses Crestron products in one way or another. Those multi-million dollar mansions you see on TV, yup you guessed it, they are using Crestron. Those conference/ballrooms at a hotel with the fancy touchpads on the wall and at the conference tables, all Crestron. (Just look for their logo, they like to put it on all their bezels). When a homeowner of a mansion wants to automate their house and money isn't an option, then Crestron is perfect. It is not meant for a DIYer, as any configuration or changes need to be done through one of their re-sellers. It's not a system that you tinker with, as the cost prohibits small tweaks here and there. Because of their reputation, they can get away with charging top dollar for their products. Crestron supports many different protocols, TCIP/IP, serial, IR, RF, they even have their own CIP protocol over Ethernet. I've seen some amazing installs and some not so great installs. As apostolakisl pointed out, he had client that sold their house because of Crestron. That house could have possibly had a Crestron setup that was 40 years old, or just a bad installer that made a great system work like garbage.
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I migrated from Houselinc with about 100 devices and tried to import the links. From personal experience, it was a waste of time. I recommend starting fresh, which is what I eventually ended up doing. If I remember correctly, I used screenshots of each of my devices in Houselinc so I knew how the scenes were created. I imported the devices into the ISY and used the option to delete all links. It worked for the most part, but if I could do it again, I would have done a factory reset on each and every device before adding the device to the ISY. There were a few devices that were not behaving appropriately and it took too much time troubleshooting the issue, when in the end I just did a hard-reset to resolve these issues.