paulbates

Have your program use "If control <device> is switched on" instead of If status. It will only trigger when the message is sent Paul

RF is half science and engineering, and half unknowns of field use. While metal can be a blocking factor, it can also a reflecting factor in a positive way. There's no hard and fast rule to say that it will not work. Placing a battery sensor, leak or open/close, under there and wait for the 24 hour heartbeat would be the definitive test. You can write a simple program, if the sensor heartbeat is turned on, send you a text or email. if you get an email a day for 2 or 3 days straight, I'd say it works. Paul

The ISY is not designed such that a second ISY will automatically 'sync' devices with the first one, even with the portal. Devices from the second ISY will not appear in on the first ISY While it is possible to control devices on a second ISY, there will be additional manual integration work to do, device by device; writing ISY programs, variables and network resources to get devices on the second ISY to respond to the first. Its more straightforward to try an solve this at the insteon protocol level. Paul

The insteon white paper says rf range is 150'. Given that specs are usually conservative, its a worthy experiment. Do you have a couple dualband lamplincs to "borrow" and try it? Put a lamplinc in an outlet in the house as close / high as possible to the outbuilding, put another one in the outbuilding on an extension cord. Plug in a lamp and try it. move it around in the outbuilding to see areas that are better. If it works at all, try different outlets to plug the lamplinc in the outbuilding. Metal will be the thing to avoid.. metal siding, doors, walls, jboxes.. or foil backed insulation. Paul

I updated a 5 year old Lenovo all-in-one to SSD. It had an old HDD that was humming, getting slow and very noisy. I replaced it with a SAN disk SSD. Based on how the lenovo was designed, it took less than 15 minutes to swap the memory DIMM for more memory, and replace the HDD with an SSD. Before the swap, I used acronis, which is free when using a san disk ssd, to copy the HDD image to the SSD and make it bootable. Did the HW swap and turned it back on. It was one of the most painless upgrades, runs great and relatively cheap (compared to replacing an all-in-one)

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Bill I had to put a range extender in my garage to get my garage door iolinc to work. Actually its the old school Access Point, which works with the older iolinc I have. Picked an outlet that was close to line-of-sight with dualband devices in the house.. Paul

I have odd behavior on one of mine from time to time. Factory reset it, then try a restore device

The feature is called "replace with" Backup your ISY Add the new keypad.. don't worry what to call it and leave it in the root of the device tree.. eg don't put it in a folder right click on the existing keypad and pick "remove from folder" Are any wireless devices involved... eg a motion sensor that turns a key on? You'll need to be ready to deal with wireless updates If you have the ISY pro you can click the little +battery- icon on the icon bar so it's grey, that will save wireless updates till later right click on the existing keypad and pick "replace with" and then pick the new keypad let it run, deal with wireless devices as they come up Paul

I didn't know if you had tried refresh.. I'm not sure how extensive that is and what assumption the ISY makes about connections once it "dials out" to the portal. Try the refresh on both sides, portal and ISY a few times if you haven't. If that doesn't fix it, I would go with opening a ticket. I know this has been a difficult one, and I think UDI on the phone with their end-to-end view will get this resolved for you.

If you log in to my.isy.io, there is ISY Portal Troubleshooting under Information when you select tool. What does that say? Paul

Somtimes scene info gets corrupted in the switches. Right click on each switch and do a restore device. One other thought. Not sure what is meant by slave for the switch. Make them both controllers and I think you'll be fine. If one is a responder only, delete it from the same (save a screen shot of the scene settings if you need to) and add it back in.. check the box for making it a controller Paul

To larry's point the last octet needs to be .161. I did not put in my directions the http http://192.168.0.161/desc I don' think it lets you enter it the wrong way though. Paul

You might be able to salvage it by temporarily using the old router to get back in touch with ISY and change its network config: Power the up the old and router and leave it standalone... do not connect network cables from the old router into your new network Plug network cables in the old standalone router into to 2 of the router's 4 switch ports: one for the ISY and one for a PC with the admin console loaded Launch the AC on the computer and see if it finds the ISY.. if yes, skip the next step If no, try hard coding 192.168.0.161/desc in the ISY finder If you get in with either of the above 2 steps, go to the admin console config tab and and under network, click the box for Automatic (DHCP), click save Turn off the old router and the ISY... the job is done for the old router, do not use it any longer wire the the ISY and computer back into your new router's switch ports restart the ISY and computer... run the admin console from the computer Optional: go back to config and sent 192.168.1.161... or don't set it static any longer if you really don't need it.. and avoid this issue in the future Paul

Jim yep, exactly, you got it. To copy an ISY program as text: right click on the program's name in the list in the admin console, pick the copy option at the bottom of the list, then click in the post window here in the forum, right click and paste Paul

Hi Jim I did it a little differently: Use switched - "If control", instead of status. This is important as the state of the device in the ISY does not return to "off" until the alert is cleared and you manually query the bridge. If you forget to query the bridge, switched "If control" programs will continue to work.. they don't care what the status is. Have a separate program and separate message for each so you know which danger it is. I also had a program for test, so I could prove the whole thing worked end to end when testing the detectors. I was trying to remember... I think the battery alert only comes from the linked detector. But since the all speak the alert, you'll know when it happens. At one point I did detailed testing on the various options so I knew for sure. Paul

If your computer has a gigabit port you likely don't need the cross over cable. Many gigabit interfaces have Auto-MDIX which will sense and perform the cross over automatically. Paul

Any chance something is wrong with the ET port that the ISY is plugged in to? I know on my last cable modem one of the ports could be reserved for Comcast a specific use. Have you swapped the ISY's cable with one of the others?

Assuming that your ISY is neither of the items that say "No" under active; see what's under the ARP menu. My guess is that's where you assign addresses to devices. If it lets you , create an entry for the ISY using its Mac Address (if you still have it, or get it from the ISY Portal if you have that) and then add the IP address you believe the ISY should have.

You posted the router page that shows plugged in ET devices. What about the one that shows DHCP assignments?

Have you rebooted the ISY since the router swap? That should happen too.

The interface for the bridge is limited. It will show which type of alarm was raised, but not which specific unit raised it. If you can hear the one link uniit itself when the alarm is raised, the audio indicates which one it is based on if you set it as bedroom, basement etc. Paul

When you assign a static address, it needs to not be in the pool the the new router's DHCP service uses to assign addresses to your other devices. Its possible that the new router assigned the ISY's address to something else. ... Are you saying 192.168.1.4 is where you are expecting the ISY to be? If you temporarily unplug snapwerx (if you can) and reboot the ISY you should be able to get to it. The ISY needs to be assigned to another address, but you'll need to know what the range of addresses is for the new router's DHCP pool, so you can avoid it... but you can try the above test and see if it gets you going If your ISP lets you have access to the router's management interface, its possible to resolve it there, maybe with their help Paul

To add to Larry's comment.. there are several different subnets used for NATing internet traffic... including 192.168.0.x, 192.168.1.x, and 10.x.x.x. If your new router uses a different subnet, it won't see it. It might be disruptive to your other devices initially, but maybe you can call spectrum and they can change the NAT subnet of the new router to 192.168.1.x (or talk you through it). Then reboot the router and the other devices. Then it should work Paul

Yes, I use the climate module in similar way... ramp up HVAC if its gotten really hot/cold outside.