paulbates

@sjenkins Neither of us are yellers, yet yelling was going on. That was the sign 🤪😂

Another option is from Yolink, which has a great eISY plugin. Yolink has what's called a finger robot. You simply mount it next to your physical wall garage door opener on the wall. It mechanically presses the physical wall switch. It does not block the opener from being used normally. They also have garage door sensors so you detect open vs closed. https://shop.yosmart.com/collections/smart-garage

We'll have to wait for jimbo. In the HA case, each individual user owns the key that the HA Integration uses. In the eISY plugin case, jimbo owns it and we're behind that when we generate a pin.... which is the actual intent of the developer access. I don't think ecobee intended many individual users using dev access for individual homes. Everybody needs to standby and wait for jimbo to catch up after the weekend is over.

That's not necessarily an apples to apples comparison as there are 2 ways to integrate to HA, and one is a dead end: If you have your own Ecobee developer API key you can get similar access to the plugin, but Ecobee is no longer handing them out so no one can access it at this time. Ecobee is silent on if they start giving them out again. If you use HomeKit Device integration, The good: no Apple brand devices are required, it's HA straight to the thermostat, 100% local (no cloud or internet needed), The bad: a lot thermostat features via the Ecobee API in this plugin are not all presented in the HomeKit Integration. If you're doing more advanced things in iox programs I'd look before leaping.

Some missing info: Do you have ADT and Venstar plugins for Eisy, working? Which Venstar- Old school Insteon, Color Touch, or? I can speak to the Color Touch. Create and iox programs. This is more pseudo code but you can find the right things in the eISY interface: If Window 1 is open or Window 2 is open or. Window 3 is open (keep following the pattern, use 'or' for catching any one of them) Then Set Venstar Mode = Off The slipperier slope is do you reverse it if they close all the windows? If yes, then its a similar program, but with "and"s instead of "or"s. With "and"s, they all have to be closed. But when they close the windows it might because it's cold out and you're turning on the air. I'd start with the first program above and see how it goes. They'll figure out the system is off.

Not directly what you asked, but if you are a portal user, you can now access it remotely that way.

I had an Alexa puck I got at a Reinvent at my last house. I tried the alexa client in my Ecobee thermostat a few years ago at this house. Both had long periods where they worked reasonably well, and then go through long spells of a combination of: Said it didn't understand the exact command it did 1000 times before Said it was having problems right then and couldn't do it More irritating: Acted like it did the command, but nothing happened. WAF for automation in general was taking shots on goal over it, so I turned it off. I worked around the voice only automations by either adding a switch or adding voice free automations based on time, etc.

We'd all be guessing too, time to look at log info. I've read about the Hunches feature of Alexa plus where it tries to figure things like turning on iot devices for you. If I still used Alexa, I would find that, turn it off and see what happens

Who is your ISP? A new technology on the ISP scene is CGNAT, where they put a NAT router between your router and the internet, which renders local firewall holes ineffective. They're doing for a different reason, but the effect is the same. CGNAT is the beginning of the end of opening firewall ports to access your local devices.

Will be easier with 3 programs IMO Program 1: Fill If FillPumpSensor switches on Then Wait 10 minutes Set FillPump On Program 2: Stop If FillPumpSensor switches off Then Set FillPump Off Program 3: Deadman switch If FillPumpSensor is on (NOT switched) Then Wait XX Minutes. (You decide, see note below) Set FillPump Off Program 3 is in case the messaging to/from the iolinc is missed, it can happen. Pick a number of total minutes you think a cycle should be, maybe add 1 minute to it and assign that to XX. The first program use If Switched and the last uses If status

No. The beauty of insteon is that any n-way switch setups are programmed by the isy as a one time event. The isy and the plm can fail it be unplugged and those go right on working. However, whatever is iox programs you have that interact with insteon will no longer work... like turning on lamps or yard lights at dusk

You should post a pic example. The scenes are in the device tree and devices under them. The only thing I can think of is if the + to the left of the scene hasn't been pressed? The you can right click on the one(s) you don't want and delete

Go to the program in iox. Right click on the program's name on the left. At the bottom of the drop down is Copy, Use that

The Insteon version has 2 sounds it can make: A "ding dong", like when walking into a store, or a siren that can wake the dead.

Yep. More time planning / organizing will speed the whole thing up

Truth be told I had one I bought a couple of years ago to announce for leak sensors and sump pump depth alarm in my basement . One of the leak sensors was in a well area and the floor gets damp there... so it went off as it should but not really an emergency. I was able to move it a foot or so to still work but not false positive. But that event was not a hit with my wife as it was not a real problem and home automation took a shot on goal when its otherwise really good. I got rid of it. I had the same problem with yolink version. Too screamy. Still looking. I also don't want to keep adding things like zwave, zigbee, wifi etc to solve one problem and throw other topologies at the problem. .. and I thought about that old X10 chime that gave a nice beep ..... beep ... beep several times.

In systems like Indigo, HouseLinc or Home Assistant, the PLM is the system of record and the automation software looks there and "pulls" the network data from the PLM. The UDI / iox controllers on the other hand are the system of record for the Insteon network. These controllers maintain the master link table and "push" it to the PLM and Insteon network as each device as added. As mentioned above, what you want to do is not possible with the ISY.

There is an older lengthy post. This particular comment covers it. If you are hemorrhaging time, you could read the whole thing, but picking through it won't hurt. My recollection is that there are features in the device's panel when you add it to iox.

That is a sign. If either restore PLM or unplugging from the wall and replugging fixes it... highly likely a dying PLM. Look at the link table count can help, but..... wait for it to happen again as once you restored, it has its memory of links back for a while. If it is a failing PLM, these events will cascade until its finally dead.

I had one of those X10 modules as an alert for an automated garage door before closing it. The Insteon on/off plug, like most Insteon device can be sent a message that will create a very brief, kind of quiet "cheep". It's meant more for diagnostic use to know that the switch is being linked or has a problem. It also can be used in debugging iox programs. Insteon makes this siren module. It has 2 responses: It can make a door bell-ish ding dong like walking in a store, or a screamy siren sound that has scared my family members, pets and probably the plants. It's not clear from the post about the continued role of X10. I don't think the current release of Insteon products respond to X10 any longer.

UDI announced that the 994 series was end-of-life almost 3 years ago. If there is newer software, I believe one of the Help drop down menu items would indicate you could upgrade it.

How did you replace your plm. Did you swap new for old, or did you follow the plm replacement procedure to get the new plm's address into the insteon devices? The symptoms suggest the first of those 2

To clarify, I only used the sensor side of the iolinc, not the contact closure feature. For that, I used this yolink contact sensor: YS7707-UC I was hesitant because it is battery but having no problems. With it. I replaced an iolinc monitoring my sump pump and the cycle times line up with the iolinc. If you go this route, note that the sensor has a red LED that comes on initially when contact is sensed... for like only 2 seconds and then goes right back out. Made wiring kind of interesting as I thought my wiring was messed up.🤪

How old is the PLM? If you don't know, there's a little white stick on the back with 4 digits, what are they? Have you had a major power event, eg brown out, black out, nearby lighten strike? Did you un-plug, wait 10 seconds and re-plug the PLM and retest?

That is a different problem. There are 2 ISY skills for Alexa and I think most people were using the newest while also having the prior one loaded. Amazon was taking the worst case scenario by reporting the older, V2 ISY skill