paulbates

Are the programs that control the lights in a single folder? You could disable that folder for the night by putting a condition on it that can't be met. I did something similar for Halloween when I wasn't able participate. The caveat is if any of the lights are motion sensor activated by a scene. I had a Insteon MS for my driveway flood lights and I would take down at those times.

How often is it happening? Keypads are one of insteon's most complex products. Sometimes mine needed a kick in the pants: In addition to the restore, I'd factory reset it and then restore device again

Yes this happened earlier this year. I only use my door bell as a motion sensor and it doesn't get tripped often but I wanted front lights to come on if I pull in the driveway after they have been turned off. I had the version prior to 1.2.6 and upgraded, re-authenticated and it's been fine. @oberkc Kind of a guess, but pull the battery out of the ring device. Restart the plugin and then plug the battery back in, then re-test. (Eg, maybe the device itself got messed up)

The leak sensor's manual indicates the following:

I'm not sure why the designers thought is was necessary, but there is one node for a dry state and one for a wet state... and they are always the opposite of each other. There's also one for the heartbeat. Typically wet and dry are both labled so that leaves the heartbeat. I'm taking a guess that your naming scheme "overran" the amount of space for the wet/dry names, but it seems wet and dry should both fit (?) Unless someone else has a better idea, you might have to delete it from the ISY and re-add it without renaming... both the wet and dry names should be there. Then rename them once you know which is which

In iox, you right click on the device and pick restore device

Arrows are how the ISY indicates a contact device like an alarm sensor or door strike. A input sensor points to the right and a contact output points left. It is normal.

I think it's a meaningful and relatively inexpensive type of insurance of expensive electronic assets. Many electronics, not just Insteon, can be damaged by surges in the powerline base on black/brown-out & re-power or lightening strikes. You can buy them at the hardware store. I've installed my own but you can also have an electrician do it. While it does not provide a guarantee, I think it protects an expensive home automation installation from uncontrollable events. The Intermatic one I installed, many years ago, came with a limited warranty if you submitted the paperwork.

If you scroll through the top of this Hue part of the forum, there are related posts and things to try

Based on your diagnostic steps, which look correct to me, this is the logical conclusion. 2 more thoughts: Did you replace the light bulb itself? Since the load key is misbehaving, this doesn't seem reasonable A more remote possibility is that the wiring / wire nut didn't like what happened and needs to be looked at. You're on your way there because of switch replacement. Again with the key misbehaving it doesn't seem reasonable.

A common thread has been safari, as the browser, giving that error. It's a reason I haven't ventured in yet.

I have 3 leak sensors that cover my hot water tank, sump pump area and well. I have them set up 3 ways 1- There are linked via a scene to an Insteon chime module in the house so it "screams" if any of them go off 2- I have a program that sends a specific notification for each one. I use the paid for notification plugin and get the notifications via push over, but you can do email, text etc Well - Wet - [ID 0014][Parent 000E] If 'Leak Sensors / Well Wet' is switched On Then Set 'Notifications / Service Pushover alerts' Send Sys Custom With Params Priority=Emergency Sound=Siren Retry=30 Expire=60 Content 7 Notification ID (ID=7) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') 3- I also have a program that tracks the once-a-day heartbeat message from the leak sensor. If it stops coming, the leak sensor battery is dead and I want to know: Well Heartbeat - [ID 0010][Parent 0032] If 'Leak Sensors / Leak Sensor Battery / Well Heartbeat' is switched On Or 'Leak Sensors / Leak Sensor Battery / Well Heartbeat' is switched Off Then Wait 25 hours Set 'Notifications / Service Pushover warnmsg' Send Sys Custom With Params Priority=Normal Sound=Vibrate Only Retry=30 Expire=60 Content 4 Notification ID (ID=4) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') The 25 hour wait is because if the message comes once a day, the program restarts. If the battery dies it doesn't send an

Also, it will work better, if they are Insteon switches, if you put the lights in a scene and turn the single scene on and off. When you have 4 back-to-back Insteon commands, the Insteon traffic for them is colliding and affecting some of them not going on. That doesn't happen with a scene It also turns them all on / off simultaneously which I like better, and not "popcorn" lights

If you have the USB model (ends in a U), it will plug right into eisy. If you have a serial (ends with an S), you need to buy the serial to USB adapter from UDI when you buy the eisy. If is not HW version 2.4 (or higher, there's a sticker on it), I'd consider replacing it as it comes from a time when cheaper capacitors were used and they are notorious for failing. If it's 2.4 (or greater) moving it over will save some time in not having to update your Insteon network to be programmed for a new PLM.

@Techman is right in that you are seeing signs of "the beginning of the end". I'd order, have a PLM on hand and schedule time for replacement on your terms, not when it finally stops responding

Create a scene with the button as controller and the other device... it can be a controller, and typically is as you want the other device to light up the keypad key.

How old is your PLM? There's a sticker on the back with a 4 digit number, what is that number. While you have the PLM unplugged, leave it unplugged for 10 seconds and then plug it back in and retest one of your scenarios

You also have to move the existing motion sensor up to the root level folder of the first iox tab. You can move the new back to it's location after the replace finishes. Trice can be quicker/easier, especially if scenes are involved

I don't know if you have yolink, but it's a great compliment for an Insteon system for this kind of thing. They have a range of wireless sensors, and also plugin load sensing devices. I use one to detect when my dryer stops and starts. I use that to turn on an i3 Insteon switch to control the laundry room's vent fan... similar to a syncro linc in terms of functionality. There is a very well supported Yolink plugin here. I bring it up because it's not super expensive to get into it, the hub is like $25 and and the plugin module with power sense is about the same. Then sensors can be added to do other things which are all equally inexpensive.

I didn't go back and check the thread, but another cause can be Insteon wireless devices, specifically the motion sensor. When batteries get low they can do random things... but... ... they would still occur with the PLM unplugged. Here is the the evidence you have: PLM "choked" when doing a Restore modem (not normal) Problem goes away when PLM unplugged Insteon can work perfectly forever and then slide into problems like this and there are not always easily resolved in a straight line diagnosis. At this point, barring any other recommendations, I would be replacing the PLM on my system EDIT: Follow the PLM replacement procedure, its not just swapping out the cables.

Correct... "Add a new Insteon devices" and scroll WAY down to fine the ezio

Another possibility is, if possible, plug non-Insteon electronics in the closet into a single power strip, and plug that power strip into an Insteon filter module. (Don't plug anything Insteon into the power strip). This will isolate the line noise from your powerline. If everything won't fit in one power strip, chances are it's only one or two of the electronics in the closet, and rotating through plugging things in and testing will prove it out EDIT: Chances are, whatever the most recent non Insteon addition to the closet is the culprit

That's my thought 2) Electronics are notoriously noisy on the powerline, and the iolinc has no rf, powerline only. ezfloras are powerline only also, I had 2 of them If you have a spare lamp or on.off module, try plugging the iolinc back in the closet and the module directly into the back of the iolinc. Lamp/io modules act as rf repeaters. It might also help the ezflora, some testing needed. If you don't have a spare, temporarily borrow one to test. If it works, you can order one for this purpose

2 thoughts Since it's being reused, factory reset it: Unplug it from the wall, hold the set switch while plugging it back and and keep holding the set switch till it beeps. Try adding it again Io lincs use single band communications, not rf. Plug it in the same outlet as the PLM, try re-adding it and move it back to the install location and test its operation