paulbates

I had this kind of problem in the distant past, it was an old cable drop from the pole/service to the house. The service got flaky sometimes when it was raining. The service provider at the time replaced it and that resolved it. I remember I walked around with him as he checked it out. He remved the connection from the drop to the house... shook it and water came out!

It's not that hard. In the UDI portal where you defined the relationship with the Insteon switch, you move the entry for the switch, and add an entry for the scene instead of the switch. Login to the portal. Tool > Connetivity> Amazon Echo Delete the line for the switch and add the scene

There's a few moving parts here and it's probably best to go through them. (Good brand) Cable modems are not problematic. My arris s33 cable modem about to go into to its 5th year and I've never had to reboot it. If I lose internet, lights on the front tell me that Xfinity is not communicating with the modem, not the modem What brand router do you have? That can be another weak link. In my experience, you get what you pay for with routers. Another complexity is running a VPN. If you have the UDI portal, you can access the eisy without a vpn and without opening ports in your router. Based on what's written, I'm most suspicious of the VPN. How is the VPN endpoint set up in the remote house, what is hosting it?

How old is the unit? I could be that the SD card, where all of the automations are stored, has become unseated or is going bad. Check the below link to docs on this topic. You can first use the docs to find where the sd card is located, take it out (994 unplugged). Rub over the contacts with an eraser, wipe with rubbing alcohol, dry, reinsert and try again. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card

To isolate which it is, you can try temporarily adding a 3rd nearby device to the scene as a responder. Switch the SWL - What happens, does the new device also come on? If the new nearby test device comes on, it's the keypad. Keypads can 'lose their way' after long periods of use. If updating the scene or restore device didn't work, factory reset it and restore device.

It made sense to me, I take it as a band-aid-ish way to get around the triac dimmers causing flickering bulbs when full on. I do have a lot of N-ways, and some never get dimmed so I moved them over to on offs rather than trying this. I've been in the house +3 years, there are a ton of led can lights that continue to work so not replacing. I'm using the paddle PS01, but it has the same flags The head scratcher for me is Disable RF? Why? The problem I've had is that they can come from the factory with that turned on. Of course the first one I ran into is as far away from the panel across the house, as many wire feet as you can get..... with plenty of dual band in the area and it was working flaky. I finally looked the flags to see that turned on. Had my out-of-body experiece, changed it and pressed the button. That was over 2 years ago and its been fine.

Eisy and I think policy allow you to add the newer insteon i3 products. If switches die and/or you want to add i3 devices, their not fully supported in the 994.

To follow up @xlurkr 's caution... Almost everything is triggered, like a garage door that might be on an io-linc, sprinklers, etc The Almost part: In a test I did a couple of years ago, iox ALL ON / ALL OFF buttons did not turn off i3 devices as Insteon removed the ALL ON/OFF response based on the dreaded random occurrences. If you have any of those, they won't respond. I have to assume what you're asking for would call that feature on the buttons of java iox. Depending how much link count is a premium in your PLM, creating a scene with specific participants would be the way to go.

Even with new i3 paddles there can be flicker. Using on/off where dimming is not needed makes the problem go away. We have a master bath where I simplified multiple on off switches with multiple Insteon switches. Dimming is never used, so when they flickered, on/off fixed it. If you have the eisy you could use the new i3 paddles. The advantage of i3 paddle is that you can configure it on-the-fly to dimmer or on/off... it does both.

That's an oldy, single band. I had several them at my last house, one at the far reaches of my electrical system. They get flaky after time or power events like brown/black outs Try a restore device If that doesn't work, factory reset and and restore device

I have 2 of these, used this time of year for Christmas lights which they do fine. They are single band so their location closer to our electrical panel is helpful. If you're using them with a remote, the signal trip is from the closest dualband device and then powerline from there to the old lamplinc. they can be used like my example where you can be sure of how signals will reach it, unlike dual band devices that can go almost anywhere. Also note that Insteon things that old can use a factory reset and restore device every so oftern

Not 100% sure of the question. They can be added on the linking menu of iox. They are single band, power line only devices so may have signal flakiness problems of their own. You can search google for the device name + "manual pdf" and see what the specs are. I believe all low voltage.

There's 2 starting diagnostic paths, I'd start with the easiest Factory rest and restore each individually. Test again. This is relatively easy to try. The writeup makes it sound like they've been in there a while, and I can't imagine how wiring would cause that.. I suppose it's possible.... But- if it didn't do it before and started now, a wiring problem seems unlikely. I've had Insteon switches installed for years and sometimes they "lose it" and need to be reprogrammed. Little is lost if this path is wrong If that didn't do it, turn on the event viewer level 3, and do recreates to an ordered script (what you wrote above) so it can be compared to the event viewer results. Post it back here If both of those yield nothing, then its time to dig them out of the wall

Sounds to me like the PLM signals are strong enough to make it out. The X10 device's signal is not strong enough to make it back to the PLM. The keypad is x10 rf, correct? If so, it has a plug in receiver. Plug that in to an outlet closer to the PLM and retest

There's the TimeData plugin that does just that and more. I use it for a number of related functions

The program will run as long as the variable is 1. If you set it to 1 when you leave town for a period longer than one day, then you'll eventually get a battery notice which will be incorrect info. That program logic is designed for Insteon wireless sensors that have a 24 hour heartbeat node. Another way to do it (pseudo code), which also depends on how you use the backdoor: If triggerlinc is switches on or Triggerlinc is switched of Then Wait 24 hours Send notification This way looks for the triggerlinc to activate at all and not dependent on variable logic. If there is some activity it has battery. Same problem though, that if you close the door and leave (or don't use the door for 24 hours) it will send the notifcation

Assumes the door gets unarmed once a day... I'm thinking trips, vacations

Check this in iox: Tools/Diagnostics/PLM Info If it does not not say Connected, pull the plug in the eisy and plug it back in. I had this happend when I first set up my eisy and also after one upgrade. Both times that fixed it

It's designed to support a conference room like wall switch support for something like a retractable projection screen where manually throwing the switch runs the screen/shade all the way in either direction. The single iox node is treated the same. There's a calibration procedure in the manual where you to teach the micro-module how long to engage for up and down. After that "On" operates the contacts long enough for up, and "Off" does the some for down. There are other modes defined as well

Can you shoot a picture of the Insteon address on the sticker on the device? A number of us have run into this digit confusion before and maybe can help translate by seeing it

Hoping that means i3 capable.

At a Insteon call early in the year or late last year, it was announced that the upgraded PLM was coming out "in summer of this year" 25. Summer came and went. One of our members, I think Brian H, asked them recently if it was coming and told no.

I've had multiple of the older on/offs at my last house for over 10 years in southeast Michigan.. -20 to 100 degrees I installed the i3 outlet, the one at your link, 2 years ago. It runs our patio gazebo lights year round and a home made drip sprinkler in the summer. Same weather and no problems with it. A few things The outside jboxes can be smaller or crowded, especially with an older home I recommend a cover box to screw in where a smaller outdoor faceplate would be so the wires and everything are covered. Caulk the edges of the plate cover and the house. I lost an i3 outlet because I didn't get a good enough cover.. the grill was right in front of it and water from rain splashed right in. Water was dripping out of the sockets when I removed it.... not insteon's fault. These are not GFIC. If there is another GFIC outlet, it needs to be between the Insteon outlet and the electrical panel. Wire it up and press the test botton on the GFIC. If if power remains at the insteon outlet, replace the breaker the outlet leads to with a GFIC breaker.

You can delete the switch from the ISY and re-add it. Caveats are: if the switch is in scenes, in which case the switch will need to be re-added to the scene(s). Likely you'll have to go back to iox programs that referenced the original switch and re-add it if necessary Also, another method of copying the file. isy backups are bunch of zipped folders which follow the path of the file in question here. The individual file could be copied out of the backup and moved to the eisy. Here are high level directions (off the top of my head): Take a copy of a backup file, open it in a zip app and navigate to the file location Copy/unzip the file to the local storage of the machine you're restoring SSH into the eisy, use that or SCP, etc to copy the file to the right location in the eisy Reboot the eisy

You'll need to define a variable that has a precision (Prec column) of 4 (4 digits to the right of the decimal) to copy the value from the device into, then do these iox 'Then' statements: Variable = Emporia Node (kw) Variable = Variable * 1000 (This converts kW to W) That should give you the watts value to take action in other iox conditional statements. ** Remember to use the eISY variable type of State (State Tab) with a Precision of 4, if you plan to use the variable for iox If statements