paulbates

Somtimes scene info gets corrupted in the switches. Right click on each switch and do a restore device. One other thought. Not sure what is meant by slave for the switch. Make them both controllers and I think you'll be fine. If one is a responder only, delete it from the same (save a screen shot of the scene settings if you need to) and add it back in.. check the box for making it a controller Paul

To larry's point the last octet needs to be .161. I did not put in my directions the http http://192.168.0.161/desc I don' think it lets you enter it the wrong way though. Paul

You might be able to salvage it by temporarily using the old router to get back in touch with ISY and change its network config: Power the up the old and router and leave it standalone... do not connect network cables from the old router into your new network Plug network cables in the old standalone router into to 2 of the router's 4 switch ports: one for the ISY and one for a PC with the admin console loaded Launch the AC on the computer and see if it finds the ISY.. if yes, skip the next step If no, try hard coding 192.168.0.161/desc in the ISY finder If you get in with either of the above 2 steps, go to the admin console config tab and and under network, click the box for Automatic (DHCP), click save Turn off the old router and the ISY... the job is done for the old router, do not use it any longer wire the the ISY and computer back into your new router's switch ports restart the ISY and computer... run the admin console from the computer Optional: go back to config and sent 192.168.1.161... or don't set it static any longer if you really don't need it.. and avoid this issue in the future Paul

Jim yep, exactly, you got it. To copy an ISY program as text: right click on the program's name in the list in the admin console, pick the copy option at the bottom of the list, then click in the post window here in the forum, right click and paste Paul

Hi Jim I did it a little differently: Use switched - "If control", instead of status. This is important as the state of the device in the ISY does not return to "off" until the alert is cleared and you manually query the bridge. If you forget to query the bridge, switched "If control" programs will continue to work.. they don't care what the status is. Have a separate program and separate message for each so you know which danger it is. I also had a program for test, so I could prove the whole thing worked end to end when testing the detectors. I was trying to remember... I think the battery alert only comes from the linked detector. But since the all speak the alert, you'll know when it happens. At one point I did detailed testing on the various options so I knew for sure. Paul

If your computer has a gigabit port you likely don't need the cross over cable. Many gigabit interfaces have Auto-MDIX which will sense and perform the cross over automatically. Paul

Any chance something is wrong with the ET port that the ISY is plugged in to? I know on my last cable modem one of the ports could be reserved for Comcast a specific use. Have you swapped the ISY's cable with one of the others?

Assuming that your ISY is neither of the items that say "No" under active; see what's under the ARP menu. My guess is that's where you assign addresses to devices. If it lets you , create an entry for the ISY using its Mac Address (if you still have it, or get it from the ISY Portal if you have that) and then add the IP address you believe the ISY should have.

You posted the router page that shows plugged in ET devices. What about the one that shows DHCP assignments?

Have you rebooted the ISY since the router swap? That should happen too.

The interface for the bridge is limited. It will show which type of alarm was raised, but not which specific unit raised it. If you can hear the one link uniit itself when the alarm is raised, the audio indicates which one it is based on if you set it as bedroom, basement etc. Paul

When you assign a static address, it needs to not be in the pool the the new router's DHCP service uses to assign addresses to your other devices. Its possible that the new router assigned the ISY's address to something else. ... Are you saying 192.168.1.4 is where you are expecting the ISY to be? If you temporarily unplug snapwerx (if you can) and reboot the ISY you should be able to get to it. The ISY needs to be assigned to another address, but you'll need to know what the range of addresses is for the new router's DHCP pool, so you can avoid it... but you can try the above test and see if it gets you going If your ISP lets you have access to the router's management interface, its possible to resolve it there, maybe with their help Paul

To add to Larry's comment.. there are several different subnets used for NATing internet traffic... including 192.168.0.x, 192.168.1.x, and 10.x.x.x. If your new router uses a different subnet, it won't see it. It might be disruptive to your other devices initially, but maybe you can call spectrum and they can change the NAT subnet of the new router to 192.168.1.x (or talk you through it). Then reboot the router and the other devices. Then it should work Paul

Yes, I use the climate module in similar way... ramp up HVAC if its gotten really hot/cold outside.

I think the same is true for tstat schedule. You don't have to have logic for a variable in this case, that I can see, that runs a program. Have the program that checks the time period do the work. You may have to put a 3 - 5 second wait between each command to the thermostat, the PLM needs time to send and receive acknowledgements form the tstats. If your schedules are exclusive ... eg schedule 1: 8:00am to 10pm schedule 2: 10:01pm to 7:59am You could do 1 program with an else.. things in schedule 1 go under then, things in schedule 2 go under else

I do something similar for similar keypad logic, and you can use the "if" statement from program 1 as the logic in folder 1 and 2, saving a program and variable (Tstateco). Unless other things will tweak tstateco as well.

Right, but no details were provided and the question posed "is it possible"?. Yes. A recommendation was asked for, this is one way that can work. At this point, I'm not clear on what's needed so will definitely step aside

The suggestion I provided would require only one 'scene state program' per scene, to most closely approximate that scene's status. I've used it and typically include a few key devices that are only on together when the scene is activated. I have scenes with 20+ devices and only need 3 or 4 to make this work. Those "scene programs" T/F state would be used on the If clause of other programs.... like an event. Unless you are doing this for dozens of scenes, its not that difficult or have high impact on the ISY, the latest ISY state would be queried as you mention. Maybe this was a feature request and I misunderstood.

Scenes are one way broadcasts and can be to many devices. Because that's how Insteon designed scenes, no, its not possible to know scene state directly. You can approximate it by writing a program like: If 'device a' is on and 'device b' is on (etc) Then (no statements) else (no statements) You can check for the above program to be true (in another program's if), as a way to approximate it. I would not put more than 3 - 4 devices in this program though Paul

Wes, this is my method for accessing my ISY remotely. It works for me on W10 chrome, ie and edge, as well as safari on my iphone. I also select the Home Automation Dashboard (Settings Tab, Default UI) as its easier and more powerful to use IMO It would help to see what you are seeing. Can you paste in a full screen shot of this when its happening? You can use PrtScrn key, and then paste in to a comment here, or use windows snipping tool if you are on windows. Paul

Hi and welcome to the UDI Forums! FWIW, you mention "Link a Remote Linc 2" in your initial post. That's not the keypad. If that's what you been using, its better to: New Insteon Device Add the 3 octet Insteon ID xx.xx.xx - printed on the device's label Autodiscover Paul

I like them. Have to put the jumper for limiting the sensing on a couple because they trigger from too far away.. I want to sense the driveway, not every car the goes by down street. If you use them outside, it helps to put a small bead of super glue or silicone calk on the left, right and bottom were the bezel meets the housing, keeps the water out. I've had some outside for several years now, right out in the open. Paul

Its been a while, but I think there have been times I've had to launch locativ after a reboot to get it to work, even though its location based background app. After that its fine. Since its a firm provided phone with an mdm container, it does get forceably rebooted remotely, and I usually know when that happens when I am forced to use my passcode to login. I restart locative then. Yeh not an ios fan either, but I will not carry 2 phones, so I have just my firm's provided phone. They let me pick my provider/phone/os (from tangoe). But from an app perspective, ios is the really the only workable option for integration and collaboration. I said "uncle" on this a few years ago and carry an iphone. You've probably looked at your logs, but I've found that the portal always sends the message to the ISY, but sometimes the 'if' of my ISY program was doing what I told it to do.. vs what I meant. Paul

Ok. my log shows it catching everything, with 2 caveats on use: things worked predictably when the geofence radius was a ~200 yards or more away from my property. It easier to know that the fence has been crossed, and it gives the longer than expected chain of events time to complete. Might want to try it with only one location app an see how that works. Not sure how multiple location apps running in the background get prioritized. Its location services are set to "allow location access always" under Location Services. Paul

I saw V2 announced recently and the associated android app, but not ios so I have to believe its not available yet. The good news is that locativ is in the app store and continues to work fine with V1 of the occupancy node. Not sure how you've defined the zone, but I know it works better for me if its a few hundred yards away from the house. Paul