paulbates

Yes. I was able to wire the IOlincs relay across the contacts to the door control in the garage and was able to mount the sensor near by. We use the openers wireless remotes in our cars normally. The contacts "click" the door control as if you were pressing it manually (see note below). The sensors read and report if the door is in position. For me, that's "down". If its not down, a keypad key lights up... if it is down, its off. As a note, some door controllers do not have easily accessible contact only sensors any longer. You will want to check the manual, or post a link to the pdf for the doors manual and i'll take a look Paul

I use those on doors and windows and they work great. I typically see more than a year on battery life, but that depends how much the door / window is opened or closed. Temps: Though not these specifically, I use other insteon devices and battery wireless sensors outside in Michigan year round. They've seen -20F in the past. Based on that experience I would deploy these in the cold. This next week will potentially be a change to set that bar lower... Installation: I use the iolinc with magnetic sensors designed for a garage setup. For this application, the sensor unit can take quite a beating and sometimes the mounting locations are not ideal. I would still use the iolinc if starting over today. The iolinc is single band, however I've had mine in my garage since 2011 along with a keypad key that lights up when the door is open, and pressing the keypad key operates the door. Paul

If the functions you're looking to implement are even remotely security related, I would suggest ELK for that reason. Nothing wrong with the EZIO, but it would yet another technical solution to learn and support, when it sounds like you already have ELK Paul

Look at the nodelink list of other supported devices... there’s close to 20

To install nodelink on a pi, there is a script from ioguy, author of Nodelink To set it up, you then browse to your pi's ip address @ port 8090 example http://192.168.xxx.xxx:8090/index.htm Configure your ISYs account and pw under System config On the Devices tab, add "Additional ISY Data" You should see these values in your ISY, nodelink keeps them up to date If this didn't show up in your ISY, press Install Nodes from the new page/tab for Additional ISY Data that will appear in Nodelink's configuration page You can use any of these in your program's ifs or assign to variables. I use this at Christmas time to keep certain lights on between December 22 and 27... I don't care what year it is. Its called from another program and controls a particular scene that keeps the inside and outside decorations lit around Christmas: Lights and Lamps off Xmas - [ID 004A][Parent 0006][Not Enabled] If 'Zystem / isydata' Month = December And 'Zystem / isydata' Day of Month >= 24 And 'Zystem / isydata' Day of Month <= 27 Then Set 'Yard / Yard and Lamp Security / Yard light and lamps off - xm' Off Stop program 'Lights and Lamps Off' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Other examples odd and even days can be helpful for sprinkler system programs if your community enforces that. I have programs that prevent / allow operation based on what month it is... I don't want the attic fan/dampers to open in the winter. I control the humidity level in the house, but only during winter months, I prevent the program from running outside of that. You can do things like that. Paul

Yes, this true for the Insteon "neutral free", RF only switch as well. I realize this is a z-wave switch, but I'm wondering if the Insteon Micromodule could be used.? Install the micromodule up in the fixture with the light where there is a neutral, and then pick one of the options to connect to the wires running to the switch? I've not used it this way but it seem a possibility, and would navigate around the minimum load and load type limitations. Paul

Yes There's now tab under the configuration tab that has learning mode, sounds like you found that. Learn the codes that have functional value that the ISY can help with. Then, in a program: I made this one up, but you get the idea. You can rename them in the IR tab, so they make more sense... instead of IR_001... "Accessory Button long press", "Family Room Lamps"... what ever helps make your programs more readable and a year from now you'll remember what you were doing Paul

To order an IR sensor for your ISY Browse here: https://www.universal-devices.com/sales/ Scroll down under Accessories for IR Input Module - $5 You might have to go to your Admin Console - Help / Add Modules to add the IR module. I couldn't find that in my list and I added it to mine.. But it was 4 years ago so I don't remember. Paul

Go to java.com and click “Free Java download” to install, it will auto-detect and install the correct version for your OS. There is no functional or performance advantage to manually installing the 64bit version for the ISY Admin Console or Dashboard Paul

When you launch the admin console through the portal, you need to use your portal email address and password instead of your normal ISY account and password. No ports should be opened, that’s a benefit of using the portal for remote access. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you switch out of the program you’re writing in the program tab, even out of the tab and try again? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wrote my motion sensor program as @kclenden advised for my back floodlights. It will start once the motion is detected and then the Wait can be adjusted as I want. You can extend the battery life and cut down on Insteon traffic by changing the settings of the motion sensor to "send on commands only" when writing the program as above. The MS has to be open and put in set mode however. Paul

It would be best to repost this in the mobilinc subforum so that the author, Wes @InsteonNut, can comment.

To add to mwester's assessment... here are a couple of things to try Query it Factory reset it, click on it in the admin console, and pick "Restore Device" A good percentage of the time that works. If it does, keep an eye on it. It may be a "one off". If it keeps it up, putting a dualband device nearby might help, or tweaking the Advanced/PLM communications setting. If that doesn't help, its probably dead. Paul

Yes. I'm not sure if it also reverts to admin/admin for the downgrade to 4.x from 5.x. Its best to take small steps on changes in 5x (program changes, new devices) initially.. those would have to all be repeated if you downgraded, or not be possible if you use new 5.X language extensions or features like nodeservers, etc. Paul

I think they are somewhat 'safer' too. They length of insulator can be controlled so that no wire is showing and change because or twisting. Because there is no pushing and bending of a twisted set of wires like with lug nuts, less pressure and better ability to coax it into position. Paul

I have 2 "service levels" at my house. One for things that are managed by the ISY. I keep those together and on the ISY in ISY scenes.... For safety related reasons Linked lights in virtual circuits operated by switches all go on and off instantly and at the same time. No delays or "popcorn" lights. No cloud / network dependence on key locally managed light switch functionality. Its ok for alexa to control it, but a switch will always work No ISY or PLM dependencies.. scene controlled light switches will always work even if a PLM goes flaky (which has not been often for me) The second service level is for things everyone else creates on their own... create if it you want, but that doesn't mean I own it or automate it further... if I do decide to, I create the scene I need on the ISY for the above reasons. This starts at the beginning.. when alexa was introduced in our house a few years ago, and as its evolved... there's a discussion on what it means and what it doesn't. To keep the 2 methods (alexa and insteon) synced, you'll unfortunately need a google sheet or something where everyone says what they've done. I know it kind of defeats the convenience of alexa, but I travel every week and I'm not going to look regularly in multiple accounts to see what someone did with their phone and expected to be the help desk for that. There has to be some agreement on how things work. I've used this type of model for years starting with PCs to keep bad expectations from creating an unrealistic IT support job for me. For the last scenario, All lights on and off, it might be a little easier to do that with Alexa, as you can't aggregate Insteon scenes.. they are discrete. You have to have a scene for hall lights, and an "all lights off" scene ... and add the devices in the hall lights to both. Paul

I have switches and modules older than that, going on 12 years. I lost a couple inlinelincs installed in 2007, but they were powering low voltage lighting transformers that approaching the switches limits, taking double ganging, etc into account. As there was mixed messaging at the time about triac dimmers and electronic transformers, I anticipated that those would be problematic. Other inlinelincs installed at the same time for normal loads are still working. The couple I replaced have been fine for quite a few years. I also did keypad installs in 2011-12 time frame. A few of those went out, but it was a known manufacturing defect and SH replaced them and no problems with the replacements.. outside of the occasional "restore device", maybe every couple of years. I did install a whole house surge protector in my panel in my X10 days. I think that's a key insurance policy for any electronics in the house and why I've not had a lot of problems with insteon devices. I've replaced 2 PLMs, my first one within weeks and SH replaced. I like insteon for house lighting because its not wifi dependent or controller dependent; and the design has direct links between switches and lighting control. The PLM and even ISY could die, and house lighting will continue to function. Also, its had scene and switch status from the beginning.. no polling or other controller dependent programming requirements for house lighting. Its very low maintenance and no support when I'm traveling.. outside of a restore device every year or 2, there's nothing to do. Paul

I don't think that there is an absolute answer, and there are several questions: I don't know why that would be as a sweeping statement for all LEDs. I've had LED bulbs of different types on varying ages of Insteon dimmer switches for ~8 years... switchlincs, togllincs, inlinelincs, keypadlincs and lamplics. Some of the lamplincs and inlinelincs are original first generation. No switch failures related to LEDs that I'm aware of I'm not an electrician. Can he provide a technical reason and links to stories, research that prove this out? Insteon switches can have problems and go bad, but nothing tied to LED bulbs in general. LEDs have different designs. Some work better than others. I've been lucky in that of the ~20 that I've had, they work. There are stories of different brands/models flickering, not dimming evenly etc. While I think less of that has been happening as the LED bulb design has matured, probably some still have problems. If you're planning to buy a large number at one time, I would suggest first buying one or two of the brands you're targeting and try them our first, rather than finding out the hard way and having to deal with "spouse approval factor problems" from problems with lights and dealing with returns. Paul

To back up Kissfan's recommendation, if you want direct connection to the ISY and feature rich Thermostat, z-wave is the place to look. The honeywell recommendation is great, also, RCS has a 20 year history of making thermostats that integrate with home automation and have z-wave options as well. Amazon or smarthome will have them too. They are not the slickest in terms of looks or screen presentation, but they have solid, reliable HVAC designs and work well as thermostats. Its controlling one of the most expensive and important things in your house. To me that means getting a brand that has a history of building solid HVAC devices. Honeywell and RCS are on that list. Another thing to look at is not just the Home Automation capabilities, but how feature rich they are on the HVAC side. A lot has changed in the last 5 - 10 years and thermostats can do a lot more things on their own, in addition to remote control and enhancement by a controller like the ISY Paul

Amazon has a new Security Panel API. It will be the ISY's ability to integrate with that. @bmercier - Benoit, is this something being considered? Paul

I think that’s it. Nice job. I had 2 RCS X10 Thermostats and did something similar to get a 2 degree F deadband and cover for the spotty X10 communications. My suggestion is to put a temporary notification statement in the compare program to track how often it misses Paul

Unfortunately the HVAC features of the 2441TH are limited. There is not an adjustable deadband and its factory set at 1 degree (f) The programming approach is: If lower temperature is reached Then change setpoint to high end of your deadband If higher temperature is reached then change setpoint to the low end of your deadband (keeping in mind the 2441TH factory 1 degree deadband... this should be 1 degree higher than your target) However, having tried the the 2441TH a number of years ago, I would advise against trying to program your way around it and buy a more sophisticated tstat that has advanced features including adjustable deadband. Also, the 2441TH does not always consistently report activity. Paul

I believe you can do either. But I've only used them for direct control in the fixture, and a keypad key initiated the on / off. FWIW I used a togglinc for my front porch light; inside as it was easier, matched the other switch, fit in the 1950's jbox and I didn't have to deal with the outdoor fixture. Paul

maybe the Insteon Micromodule dimmer or on/off could be fit in the work box. I use it to control a couple different fixtures. They're fairly small .. 1.8" x 1.8" x 0.7" Paul