stusviews

The rocker switch requires that you hold it to move the window covering. Does the window covering have limit switches? That is, does it stop moving and is the motor silent even if you continue holding the switch after the window covering is all the way down or up? Do you want to continue using the rocker switch as well as having Insteon control?

Disconnect or unplug everything on both circuits. Simply turning something electronic off is inadequate. It must be unplugged or disconnected. Did that help?

Remove the switch (turn off power). How many wire are connected to the switch and what are their colors? Is there also two white wires not connected to the switch?

Status won't work unless the state changes. Try using control instead of status, or better yet, use the programs suggested by Jon.

Hops Left = 0 is an indication of communication problems, but that all devices succeeded suggests that the scene works. Disconnect or unplug everything on both circuits. Simply turning something electronic off is inadequate. It must be unplugged or disconnected. Did the help?

Tools > Diagnostics > Event Viewer. Set the level to 3. Tools > Diagnostics > Scene Test. Select and test the problematic scene. Look at the results beginning and ending with - - - - - scene name Test Results - - - - - . What are the results?

Does the existing controller switch look like this: http://www.draperinc.com/images/WindowShades/500x500images/Rocker_Switch.jpg ? Or does it look like this one: http://www.draperinc.com/images/WindowShades/500x500images/Toggle_Switch.jpg ?

Here's a link to a great Leak Sensor Program Package

The second version will support Z-Wave or ZigBee in the event you don't have a PLM or your PLM fails. In the latter cases, Insteon is not supported. Insteon requires a PLM. If you do have a functioning PLM and a Z-Wave or ZigBee module, then either version is OK.

The second option, ISY 994i ZW, Z, or ZS Series (Z-Wave/Zigbee and/or if you do NOT have a PLM), does not support Insteon devices.

The official release is one that has been tested enough for known bugs to have been eliminated and/or minimized. It's always one or more revisions behind the latest release candidate (RC). If you want the most stable environment, then install the latest official release, 4.3.18. If you want the most up-to-date firmware that may or may not have some--usually minor--problems, then install the latest RC, currently 4.3.26. Or be brave and update to version 5+

Your problem devices seem to all be garage related. Are they all on the same separate circuit? If so, unplug or disconnect everything on that circuit except for one Insteon device. If communication improve to that one device, then add what you've disconnected one-at-a-time until you have a communication difficulty.

Tools > Diagnostics > PLM Info/Status will report the PLM Insteon address.

The correct response depends on which device you are observing, the devices that initiated the beacon test or the responding device. For the most part, you can ignore the initiating device once you start the test except that the initiating device will continuously beep. If the responding device is a Range Extender, then the response you're looking for is blinking green. Any other color or pattern means that the responding device is not on the opposite leg of the split, single-phase electric supply and bridging has not occurred. No LED at all means that the devices are not communicating via RF. For other responding devices it's best to view the respective Owner's Manual. Edit: You need only one pair of correctly placed dual-band devices to accomplish coupling. Additional dual-band devices serve to increase range and reliability.

A few responses to disparate posts. I've had luck with lithium batteries (indoors). I occasionally get a low battery message, but the MS continues to function. I can't find the post, but someone had a MS knocked off their mailbox during snowy weather. They found it months later, after the snow had melted, still functioning. Motion sensors, despite their name, detect an incremental change in heat, not motion. That change has to be in a horizontal direction. Rustling foliage is unlikely set off the sensor, although it can depending on the weather, not the motion

Z-Wave devices can be dragged into scenes, but that has no effect on the Z-Wave deice. The only way to use an Insteon device to control a Z-Wave device is via a program. The only way to use a Z-Wave device to control an Insteon device is via a program.

Nothing, absolutely nothing beats a hardwired phase-coupler for bridging the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply. In addition, the SignaLinc prevents most of the Insteon signal from traveling toward the distribution transformer thus maximizing the signal that remains within the confines of the residence. When a SignalLinc is installed, it doesn't matter where you place dual-band devices, they will serve to increase the range and reliability of your Insteon network..

I rarely use a wait between statements that involve Insteon devices, but I often need a wait when using network resources to control window coverings. The length of the delay varies. I experiment and then add one second to the shortest dependable wait.

Before you do anything, update the firmware and UI so that they are both at the same level. They are not at the same level now. Be sure to follow all instructions (listed with the update).

Paul is correct. A program is unnecessary, what you want to accomplish should be done with a scene where each member of the scene is a controller. But the 2466SW is a powerline only switch. If the devices are on opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply, then they will have difficulty communicating. You are correct also. Properly located (see the Owner's Manual for determining the proper location) range extenders should alleviate the problem. Post back if it doesn't.

DevonSprings, You mention what you expected, but not what actually occurred. Post your program.

The error blink is not a random change. It's a purposely added troubleshooting feature. The difficulty is control of the error blink

The two wires between the wall switch and the GDO are not directly connected to the wall switch push button. Instead, there is logic circuitry between the push button contacts and the wires to the GDO. You can solder wires from the wall switch push button contacts and connect those directly to the I/O Linc.

Sounds like you busted the ghost, oops, problem. It's likely that lack of coupling is the cause of communication difficulties between the ToggleLincs. Two Range Extenders or other dual-band devices correctly located will adequately bridge the opposite legs of split, single-phase electric supply. Any more than that can increase range and reliability, but may not solve powerline interference. Coupling problems are easy to solve. Finding the source of signal suckers (devices that clean the powerline, e.g., UPSs) and signal stompers (devices that put noise on the powerline, e.g., wall warts) is like chasing ghosts. A methodical approach is usually quickest.

One Linc, one locus.