stusviews

A dual-band device repeats Insteon signals. It doesn't care what sends the signal even if it's in use for a different purpose. A LampLinc, for example, repeats the signal whether or not it's controlling a lamp.

It's kind of stretching things to expect a single device to control a bunch of scenes using Echo or even the ISY. How would one set a LampLinc to more than three levels (preset, on and off) as a scene trigger using only the ISY? The only way to use the same device with different levels is to use Alexa to set those levels, "Alexa, set the Family Room TV to 50%," or "Alexa, set the Main TV to 60%." Using Echo groups allows giving the same device different names.

All my Hubs came encased in plastic.

You can use "off" to turn a scene off. Create two programs, one for On and the other for Off. Name the trigger device, for example, an On/Off Module, Family Room TV. "Alexa, turn the Family Room TV on" will run the On program and "Alexa, turn the Family Room TV off" will run the off program.

All dual-band device are range extenders.

Only the Hub 2 (2245) supports Echo, only the Hub Pro (2243) supports Siri .Neither he original Hub (2242) nor the Hub Pro supports Echo.

Two wires at the switch is neither lazy nor cheap. It is efficient, This was standard practice for decades and fully within the constraints of the NEC until only a few years ago (2011) when including a neutral in a switch box became required. Until the advent of automated switches there was absolutely no reason to run a neutral to an end run switch box. BTW, the earliest switches interrupted the neutral wire so there was no line wire at the switch

The bracket is held in place with two screws. Once that's done, the wiring should be easy. An electrician may not be familiar with Insteon wiring. Be sure to show the electrician the Owner's Manual.

There is no way to wire a ToggleLinc or any Insteon device without getting at the wires inside the ceiling box (by removing the bracket). Even a 2-wire switch won't work due to the fan.

That is not possible unless: 1) you didn't remove the fan bracket from the ceiling box or 2) there is another electric box somewhere.

You will need to remove the fan bracket attached to the ceiling box to access the wiring.

No conditionals, no programs, no preset On-levels, no secondary buttons, no fan support for the FanLinc (I linked only a few devices). But, it's really easy, does not AFAIK interfere with the ISY. The best part is that nothing else is needed. I haven't yet tested the result of restoring a device. Although there's no preset On-level, you can tell Alexa to turn on a light to a particular level. Alexa understands English syntax as well as brief statements, for example, "Alexa, turn on the living room light to 20%," or even, "Alexa. set living room light to 20%." I have no basis for comparison (a second Echo is on its way), my Echo seems to have limited hearing when at desk height. Lowering the Echo made a big improvement. The range of the remote is about 30' which is why we need at least two Echos.

That'd be a great holiday gift to myself. Hi Michel, Will the portal support two Echos?

Echo, when the Hub is a gateway, can send only direct commands to devices. Echo, when used like this, has no access to On-levels nor programs. I added a few devices today to the Hub 2 & Echo following these instructions. If you add devices to a "group" and name that group "family room TV". then you can say, "Alexa, turn on the family room TV. Caveat: When used in this manner, the Hub app has no concept of scenes nor programs. Scenes and programs, when named uniquely in the ISY shouldl be as easy.

Here's an interesting integration of Echo and the ISY that I'll be trying: http://forum.smartho..._ID=17353#93089

Here's an interesting integration of Echo and the ISY that I'll be trying: http://forum.smarthome.com/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=17353#93089

I'm using a lithium battery in one motion sensor. Since May I've been getting occasional low battery alerts, but they're not continuous, once every few days or even a week or two apart, none in September. So far, the MS is fully functional--it's activated several times a day, every day.

You certainly do not want to open port 80. Select an unused port from this list. Then, after forwarding the port, use this tool to verify access through the port you selected.

You don't need to wait for a battery powered device to time out. Use the set button to take the device out of linking mode.

The two sense wires are needed when you have a switch with two separate on positions such as a On-Off-On switch. There are momentary paddle switches with that action for raising and lowering a movie screen or blinds.

Micro Modules do report their state to the ISY and programs, if any, respond to that state. In fact, if it's a voltage applied to the sense wire, as would be the case in the event a motion sensor is wired to a Micro Module, a program will respond to "Control" as well as "Status."

If everything is working correctly, then the status of the Micro Module reflects the status of the sensor. When the sensor detects motion, the Micro Module is turned on, when the duration has expired, then the Micro Module is turned off. In addition, the light can be turned on or off in the absence of motion. However, if motion is sensed after the light is turned on in the absence of motion, then the sensor will turn off the light at the end of the time interval.

This is what I want to accomplish:1. When Switch 1 is turned On, then turn off Switch 2. Make Switch 1 a scene controller and Switch 2 a responder with an On-level of 0% 2. When Switch 1 is turned Off, then turn on Switch 2. Not possible using a scene. Although an On command can send an On or an Off or something in-between, Off can send only an Off command. 3. When Switch 2 is manipulated, then do nothing to Switch 1. If you don't create a scene with Switch 2 as a controller of Switch 1, then manipulating Switch 2 will do nothing to Switch 1.

Reassess and describe the wiring. You indicated that the Mud Room switch has red and black travelers and included (an unlabelled) image with a white traveler. Is this the kitchen switch? You also talk about two 3-way configurations. oberkc also mention using two SwitchLincs instead of a Micro Module. Is there a particular reason you don't want to do that?

The bundle of white wires was missing from your description. But, something is amiss. At the kitchen, the travelers (connected to the brass screws) are white and red, at the Mud Room the travelers are black and red. You will need to remove the fixture and describe the wiring there. Describe the two groups of black wires in more detail, what is connected to what. Are all six white wires connected together?