stusviews

You will have to remove the fixture to change some connections. At the 2-gang switch box, you do have line (the bundle of black wires) and neutral (the bundle of black wires). The black screw on the 3-way switch is connected to line. The two wires (red & black) connected to brass screws are travelers. Connect the line to the Insteon device and to the black wire from the 3-wire cable. Connect the red wire to the load wire from the insteon device. Connect the neutrals. Connect line and neutral of the Insteon device at the single-gang box to black and white. Cap (separately) the red wires. At the fixture, connect all the white wires together. Connect all the black wire together. Connect the red wire from the 2-gang box to the fixture black wire. Cap the red wire from the single gang box. To determine which 3-wire cable comes from which box: At the single-gang box, one wire is connected to a black screw. That wire is connected to the fixture black wire.

Being distant from the PLM when adding or updating is a requirement for the original RemoteLinc only, not any other Insteon device.

I'll add to Teken's correct advice that you must be not only distant from the PLM, but near a dual-band device, as well. If you can't get far enough away while you're in the house, plug a dual-band device into an extension cord. I had to be far away adding the same RemoteLinc's I formally added from my desk

Unless you have a dimmable load you should use an On/Off Module, not a dimmer. Even at full on, the TRIACs chop the waveform (that's how they achieve dimming). You risk shortening the life of the dimmer, the load or both. Or worse, the dimmer and/or load may suddenly fail.

It's often a waste of $$ filtering devices that don't need filtering--even it you think they do. The only way to determine if a device needs filtering is to disconnect it and see if communication improves. If it's more than one device that's causing problems, then the procedure is a bit more involved. One method is to turn off all breakers except the one powering the ISY and PLM. Test communication to whatever has power. Then turn on the breaker that powers a problem device. Good communication? Then the culprit is on another circuit. Turn on breakers one at a time until the problem surfaces. The problem device is on that circuit. Poor communication? The problem device is on that circuit. Unplug or disconnect everything on that circuit. Turning things off is not sufficient, they must be unplugged or disconnected. Now start plugging in or connecting devices until the problem recurs. The last device connected needs to be filtered.

The 1101 is as obvious as is !, so if you don't see 1101, then that's not a problem. It's possible that your attempt at Delete Modem may have made things more difficult, but it's good that your device are recognized. Did you try Restore Devices. I usually do Restore Devices twice or more if I get only some restoration, but not all.

Did you ever do a Delete Modem? How long did you wait to power up the ISY after plugging in the PLM? Do any of your devices show ! or 1101?

http://www.universal-devices.com/contact-support/

That's possible only if you happen to know the MAC address or the ISY Finder starts. You may be able to find the ISY by searching the first three groups of hexadecimal digits which are 00:21:B9.

Insteon thermostats require manually setting schedules for internal programming. You can turn the programming off or on remotely, but you cannot change it remotely.

If whatever Then repeat n times dim device or scene to z% wait x time

You need to solve the communication (or device) problem first or no program controlling those devices will run successfully every time or at all. What Insteon device detects "motion?" What Insteon device controls the boiler? Scenes cannot be given a condition, that's under the realm of a program. A program can run a scene or control a device. Scenes are preferred if more than one device is involved. Querying a device every minute will keep the power line busy and may cause commands not to work. Once you fix the communication problem, then you can query less or not at all.

I'm one of those who uses remote control of our thermostats nearly daily. In particular, there's a Dine Out button that changes the setting on all thermostats as well as lighting when we leave for dinner and resets them before we arrive home. The set back is small. I do it to save energy, not money. Our HVAC is efficient and takes only minutes to cool down or heat up the living space and second,. A tiny fraction of the time we take to dine. If there's a large discrepancy between between the exterior temperature and the thermostat set point, then I don't modify the thermostats' settings. Hey, we earn a $1.00 every time we make an on-line restaurant reservation. Because we dine out nearly every night, it doesn't take long to get that $20.00 dining check. I'm more amazed that someone will leave 10's of thousands of dollars worth of stuff on the street because their garage is filled with $500 worth of junk.

A hard wired coupler will work at any panel, but is most effective at the main panel. If I were to get a second coupler, I'd go for the first and last panels. Or buy something else

If you are comfortable working at the panel, then you'll be better served by a hard-wired coupler. Although they don't repeat the Insteon signal and they have no RF capability, there's no better way to bridge the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply while keeping most of the signal within the residence. These couplers provide a hard-wired bridge which is vastly more reliable than RF. And, because they're wired to breakers, they're mostly unaffected by noisy devices on the power line, so you can forever rule out a coupling problem!¿!

Yes, but it'll be a step-wise rather then a gradual dimming. If whatever Then dim device or scene to z% wait x time dim device or scene to y% wait x time dim device or scene to x% wait x time . . . wait x time dim device or scene to 0%

Some LEDs are a problem, others are not. The only way to tell is to try them. Even the same brand , identical LED can vary, depending on where and when you purchase them.

Ramp rates are based on going from full on (or off) to full off (or on). At 8 minutes, going from 80% to 60% should take a little more than 1-1/2 minutes. What is the result if you set a different ramp rate, say 4 minutes?

Troubleshooting is rarely easy. Turn off all circuit breakers except the one powering the ISY and PLM. Unplug, disconnect of filter all electronics on that circuit. Just turning something off is not adequate, It must be unplugged, disconnected or filtered. Then turn on one other breaker and test all Insteon devices on that circuit. Repeat until you run into communication problems. Turn that breaker and continue, each time noting which circuit causes a problem. Unplug, disconnect of filter all electronics on on a problem circuit. If communication is OK, then connect or plug in one item at a time until the problem recurs. That device needs to be filtered. Continue...

There is not much that newer Range Extenders offer over the early devices. A filter on something that has not been shown to cause difficulty is a waste of money while the actual culprit goes unfiltered. Have you ensure that the range e xtenders are communicating and are actually bridging the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply?

Ensure that you didn't accidentally set the ramp rate to beyond 8 minutes. Anything beyond that value responds immediately because the 9-minute ramp rate has been discontinued, but it's there for those who have much older devices.

Do you mean that you are using a program? If so, paste the program here. Right click on the program name > select Copy to Clipboard.

Any command using the microphone does not require the wake word. Pressing the voice button wakes the Echo. I don't have an emulator, so I can't test that.

Echo's microphone allows giving commands without the wake word (i.e., Alexa or Amazon), for example, "set the living room light to 50%." I don't know how that'll work with Echo and the ISY.

It takes a special effort to accidently press a set button. Everyone has had a remote that missed its press. Disconnect the ISY. Scenes will remain intact. Programs won't run. If it's easy and if every button is labelled, you may want to leave the devices. IMO, it's not worth using older devices in a new installation. By all means, take the ISY