stusviews

Or an Insteon MS with a 9 volt lithium battery.

Unsightly cord. requires a nearby outlet. OTOH, a line powered sensor requires a convenient electric box. I actually use all three methods, battery powered, battery eliminator and line powered

Thanks. I updated the BuzzLinc instructions.

If control motion sensor is turned on Then wait 1 hour set fan off Each time motion is sensed the program runs, thus restarting the wait period .

If the green status LED is lit in one position of the garage door and unlit in the other position for both garages, then the I/O Lincs are functioning correctly and the problem is elsewhere.

Do you have a red exclamation mark ( ! ) next to the thermostat icon?

Do you mean the status of the sensor (green LED) or something else? Do you have a 2-wire or 3-wire magnetic switch? Any particular reason that you change the trigger to reverse? Were you already having a difficulty?

The (+) terminal of the piezoelectric buzzer should be at 5V and the (-) terminal at COM.

Yes, you need to change to port to the port you choose in both your router and the ISY. IMO, it's best to use any port not in the list so as to easily avoid a possible conflict with a commonly used port.

List of Ports to avoid

Here's a port check tool: http://www.canyouseeme.org/

I successfully use both surface mounted and in-wall motion sensors connected to Micro Modules as suggested by Teken (#2). Post mounted, too!

I don't see the log. Does it show a state for each of the KPLs?

I agree with oberkc. Lengthy and processor intensive programs running concurrently are more of a concern than the number of programs that are sitting idly by awaiting execution.

The short answer is "yes." The long answer is ask 10 programmers to ....

The goal is to go from Homelink to Insteon. It really doesn't matter which two devices you use to send the Insteon signal (i.e., a Homelink device that triggers an Insteon device that sends an Insteon signal).

Garage door devices are momentary and do not distinguish between open and closed. Send a signal, open-send another signal, close. So, even if you don't use it to operate the garage door, how will it distinguish between on (arm) and off (disarm)? And, it also means buying another thing to try.

Yes. HomeLink can turn on (or off) the Liftmaster light switch and the switch, in turn, controls the Micro Module.

Programming is like that. I have no solution for the memory problem

You can take advantage of creating a program with no condition. It won't run--ever--until instructed to do so from another program.

There are Insteon compatible Venstar thetmostats, actually Insteon adapters for some Venstar thermostats. They're available at the SH store. I have two, no longer in use, if you're interested. Edit: T1800 + adapter

The 2441TH is not compatible with a heat pump.

What is the result if you enter: ping isy

Identify everything wired or plugged into that circuit. temporarily disconnect (wired) and unplug (plugged in, turning something off is inadequate) everything on that circuit except the misbehaving switch(es). Plug a Range Extender into that circuit. What's the result?

GFIs are in the bedroom because the code requires them. The NEC is not there to help manufactures make money. as some claim. It's published by the National Fire Protection Association and is voluntary. The main purpose is safety. Most states and municipalities incorporated the node into their building standards. Some municipalities have even stricter standards (e.g., NYC, Chicago, Miami and many more). Some early GFIs caused HA difficulties, but most current GFIs are OK. The primary attack should be improving communication and not by not bypassing the required protection. A different GFI may help as will Range extenders and dual-band devices.