stusviews

In addition to the above comments, holding the set button for a few seconds puts the MS into linking mode, a second hold while it's still blinking put the MS into unlinking mode. A third tap puts it back into ready mode.

The ISY needs to connected to a LAN. A WAN (e.g., internet) is optional. Updates do require web access, but only for the update, not for functionality.

If turning the scene on when it's already on is not a problem, just delete, "And Status 'Island (Mudroom Door ICON)' is Off."

Sometimes the simplest solutions are the most evasive. The solution is a program that senses IF all the devices linked to the RemoteLinc are turned off and THEN turns off the other specified devices. What's even better for us in this situation is that All On has no effect on those additional devices.

From 7:30PM to 9:30PM (next day) will always be true.

Unless time runs backward you can't go from night to morning on the same day.

See my response on the other forum.

Try selecting the correct device from the drop down list first.

Create a scene where both light controllers are responders only. Create a program that turns the scene on and off (rather than the individual devices). Both devices will operate concurrently.

Do you mean the intensity of the LEDs? Or lit vs. unlit? Which specific devices?

Here's the mini-version.

I agree. But if the only concern, in this particular case, is that I can't restore the device from an ISY record, then I'm OK with that. It's not difficult to rebuild any scenes and if the RemoteLinc fails, there's no direct replacement, so I'd be starting over anyway. BTW, we use seven of these. I'd sure like to see a larger replacement than the Mini Remote.

So, basically not a problem BTW, HL is also unaware of this link.

It's possible to manually link the RemoteLinc All On/All Off buttons as a device controller apart from those devices linked to the buttons. Specifically, the linked device(s) respond to all On or All Off, but not to any individual button. Is there a way to do that using an ISY? If not, then is there any problem with manually linking that button pair?

For most garage doors, the relay operates momentarily, so the status of the relay is useless except to indicate that the garage door is moving (i.e., not open, not closed). We have two garages, so I use two KPL buttons with a red diffuser behind each. The corresponding button is lit when the garage door is open and unlit when closed. The magnetic switch (door position sensor) is open when the door is closed. The I/O Linc sends an On signal to the KPL button when the door starts to open and an Off when it's fully closed. The KPL button is set to Non-toggle On. The I/O Linc is set to momentary B so that no matter if the button is in or out of sync, a single press will always operate the garage door.

Some LEDs buzz with some dimmers. You should be OK with an On/Off INSTEON device.

KPL buttons can be set to always lit or always unlit, but each press causes the LED to blink so it's easy for an observer to determine which button was pushed and in which sequence. The wireless keypad has no specific button light and thus is more secure. Here's a couple of ways we use the wireless keypads: 4-button toggle, controls motorized vertical blinds A-off: close verticals A-on: open verticals B-off: open to point x from closed B-on: open to point x from open C-off: open to point y from closed C-on: open to point y from open D-on or off: stop 8-button non toggle on A-operates walkway gate B-operates driveway gate C-controls garage 1 door D-controls garage 2 door E-controls both garage doors concurrently F-opens driveway gate and keeps it open (i.e., no auto close) G & H-currently unused

edokid, what's the load?

I have several 4-gang and 3-gang boxes with a mix of relays and dimmers with no adverse affects. The only restriction I'm aware of is that the load capacity of a dimmer is reduced when placed next to another dimmer. Check and double check the connections. Does the device work reliably if you remove it from the switch box, but leave it connected?

Using only the middle four buttons, I tried two sequences, (1) using a single finger on one hand to press quickly and (2) alternating two fingers, one on each hand. Each button controls a different scene and I practiced first to build up speed. The first sequence worked every time. The second sequence sent only the first and third signals. Responding to a program would probably be slower.

That would be a SwitchLinc. BTW, I have 4-button KPLs that control three loads (6-button mode) and some that control four loads (8-button mode).

That's correct. What you see is a 6-button, six device KPL.

Any KPL can be placed in 6- or 8-button mode. The main difference is the buttons supplied. However, you can get button sets separately in the event you change the mode. BTW, I prefer the custom etched buttons. Yes, you can get the large ON button to function independent of the large OFF button. Here's how: Place the KPL in 8-button mode, but use the 6-button plate. In any scene involving the large buttons, include both button A & B for the top large button and buttons G & H for the bottom large buttons. I've also made a 4-button KPL using all (four) large buttons.

A low battery can cause that.

I did have motion sensing switches that did that. For that very reason, I replaced them with Lutron devices that resume their motion sensing capabilities when manually turned off. Both a dimmer and relay are available.