stusviews

The switch box has to have at least 2 wires. That's all you need. If there are only 2 wires, then white is line and black is load. You'll need to change that at the ceiling box so that white is neutral and black is line. Then cap off the Keypad red load wire. You won't need it. At the fan, connect all white wires together. There'll be one from the FanLinc, one from the light, one from the fan, one from the switch and one or more neutral wires. Connect the black line wire(s) the the black from the FanLinc and black from the switch. Connect the blue FanLinc wire to the light and the red FanLinc wire to the fan motor. Install FanLincs in the other three fans. Create scenes to control all fans from the Keypad and/or remote.

Here's a somewhat costly hard-wired Onelink smoke and CO alarm. I don't know if it's Smoke birdge compatible. http://www.amazon.com/Onelink-Carbon-Monoxide-Hardwired-HomeKit-enabled/dp/B00R9O32J6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464049859&sr=8-1&keywords=onelink

Launch the Alexa app and tap the menu button (top left). You'll get the same screen as from a computer.

Which specific Somfy controller?

The probe can be wired to replace of the internal sensor, but the thermostat is meant for ambient temperature. What's the range of temperatures you need to measure? Are you concerned with the temperature of the water in the pipe or the water in the pool? Which specific probe/heater are you using now?

The PLM should be powered up before powering on the ISY.

Was the activity prior to the Status Query expected? Was the activity after the Status Query expected? What caused the Status Query? Nothing you mentioned indicated 8PM.

The log doesn't show devices being set to 100% at about the time the All On occurred? Of concern is what occurred within a minute prior the the first full on device. No new PLM is currently available from UDI

Do the other switches function manually? If so, try Restore Devices. That may take awhile to complete. It's best to not use any device during that time.

See post #2 and post #7.

Have you tried a quick reset or factory reset on those other devices?

Correction: Pull out the set button, wait for 10 seconds This time, push it all the way in and hold it After you hear a 'beep' let it go. Hold the set button all the way in until the beep stops. The load will turn on a couple of seconds after releasing the set button.

Does the blinking ensue if the 2672 is screwed into a different always live socket, say a lamp.

Time for ISY support.

Your ISY firmware and UI should be the same revision. Update the firmware.

Wingsy, it's highly unusual for all those devices to have the same X10 house/unit code. More likely, the event you saw was a partial All On. Check the log to see if there's any evidence of those devices turning on. Also report the firmware of your PLM (Tools, Diagnostics, PLM info/Status).

What is the result if you turn the scene on and off using the Admin Console?

I'm confused. You title indicates that the KPL button don't respond, but your text says that they do respond. In any case, if you use Alexa to control the scene, then the button should respond, if you use Alexa to control the linked device, then the button won't respond.

Unfortunately, no. The ISY keeps a record of the particular Insteon ID and it's relation with any device that's aware of that ID. That's how the ISY (or any Insteon device) "knows" what to do. That record includes the ID of the PLM which negotiates between any Insteon manager (e.g, HouseLinc, mControl, ISY, PowerHome, Girder, etc.) and the power line. For that reason, you need to go through the procedure that replaces the old ID with the new ID. Backups do not include the PLM ID. It's too bad the ISY doesn't have a way to automate backups. BTW, when was the last time you backed up your computer

Except that:

The red exclamation points indicate that communication between the ISY and device is lost. This will occur with any device that doesn't have power and/or the PLM cannot communicate with. Is the power LED on the PLM lit? What about the LEDs on the ISY?

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13815-another-all-on-event/ http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/10516-random-all-on-event/

It's not the power outage, It's the surge when power is restored that causes failure. Pull out the set button for about 10 seconds, then push it in until it clicks into place. Do not push the set button all the way in. You may want to invest in a whole house surge suppressor which will protect all electronics in your home.

Some Insteon device do arrive with an X10 code that was added during testing. Most are erased before shipping, but that doesn't always happen. This is not the first time someone posted about that.

The SwitchLinc has an X10 hosue/unit code assigned. The only way to delete it is to do a factory reset. Then do a Restore Device, possible followed by a Write Updates to Device.