stusviews

That's correct. On means that that was the last command. A SwitchLinc, for example, does not continuously send an On signal when it's been turned on

The program I rewrote will turn the heater on if the temperature is below 87º and turn it off when the temperature reaches 87º (depending on the thermometer), but only if you manually turn on button H and button G is off. The heater should turn off if the temperature reaches 87º or button G changes state from off to on or button H is turned off.

There is nothing in the Pool Heater program that causes it to evaluate as false. Pressing the H button sends an On. Releasing the button sends nothing. Also, I don't see a need for two programs. Pool Heater If Control 'Backyard Light / Pool Heater- H' is switched On And Status 'Backyard Light / Spa Pump - G' is Off And Status 'Pool Temperature - Main' < 87° (Temperature) Then Set 'Pool Heater' On Else Set 'Pool Heater' Off

I generally allow 5-10 min/device.

You have two programs that require the two buttons send a signal simultaneously (Pool Heater and Pool N Spa Heater). Try using 'status' for the button that's not pushed.

All dual-band device (Access Points are dual-band) increase reliability and range of the Insteon network. All dual-band device Insteon devices use power 24/7, most serve a dual purpose. Access Points do not. If you don't need them, yank them out. BTW, I went from needing six Access Points to none with no decrement in performance, including the detached garages.

All KPLs can be configured as 6-button (5 scenes) or 8-button (8 scenes). But no matter which mode you set the KPL to, the ISY will report the native name of the device.

Select the device with ID 3D.AC.3D. The column at the far right will indicate any scene that the device is a member of.

Nishto farvos

Good use of controlling a device instead of a scene. If you use a KeyPad to control the fan, then the button LEDs will not indicate the correct speed. But there's a solution. Create a program for each speed plus off and use the state of the motor as a condition to run the appropriate scene. BTW, the listed values are 1%-49% Low 50%-99% Medium 100% High

The program will run beginning Fri at 6:30PM until 7:30PM on Sat, and on Sat it'll run starting at 6:30PM (Fri is cancelled at this point) until 7:30PM on Sun. Eliminate Sat from the program.

Not every revision has that option. If your device does, it'll appear under Options next to Buttons Toggle Mode.

Check not only the scene, but also each device in the scene.

Blink on traffic affects the set button LED. If you mean the load blinks (LED bulbs), a different brand may help. Try the LED bulbs on a different Insteon dimmer, if you have one installed.

There's both non-toggle on and non-toggle off. Which are you setting the buttons to and how are you setting the mode?

I'm unsure why you have two ISYs and only one Echo account and also a need to switch between them. Have you exceeded the capacity of one ISY? BTW, I can switch between two accounts and one ISY.

Buttons never fix themselves. It sounds like B is still set to non-toggle on. How are you setting the button mode?

Do you also have a second Echo?

All my update programs are in a separate folder, but I don't want more than one running at the same time which is why they're disabled.

Echo has difficulty with some words or combinations, for example, volume. The list contains words and combinations that are known to work, but it's not exhaustive. I use torch, pathway and verticals, none of which are listed.

Yes, motion sensors stay awake long enough to update. It's especially handy for out of reach sensors. As far as leak sensors, I usually press the set button and walk away, other sensors require that I open (and sometimes close) a door or window. Don't forget the disable the program. You don't want a battery powered device to use power to update every time it's activated. You can run Then without enabling the program.

List of Spokens Sometime combining two words as one works better, for example, diningarea light instead of dining area light. Be creative, instead of torchiere, try torch or torch light.

A bit of research revealed the the lights are powered using a 480 volt LED driver. The driver is powered from standard 110/120VAC or 220/240VAC line power. That's what you need to determine. You do not need to control the 480 volts.

Whenever I'm in that situation, I turn off automatic updates and leave it off until updates are done. If updates gets turned on, I turn it off again and don't wait for the process to finish. I do have to wait for some updates that got started. To mitigate the problem, I've created a separate disabled program for each battery powered device that updates the device. At my leisure, I update one at a time, either by running the Then statement or activating the device. Devices will update even if updates is turned off. Here's a couple of those programs: BR Courtyard Sensor If Control 'BR / Devices / BR Courtyard-Opened' is switched On Then Set 'BR / Devices / BR Courtyard-Opened' Write Device Updates Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') IN Laundry Sensor If Control 'IN / Devices / IN Laundry Room-Dry' is switched On Then Set 'IN / Devices / IN Laundry Room-Dry' Write Device Updates Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

If using a program causes as little as a one second delay and you turn on lights in the kitchen, dining room, living room, bedroom and bathroom on the average of twice a day, over the course of a year you will have waited more than an hour for the lights to turn on. Even more if you use the bathroom a lot