stusviews

That the button was lit is unusual unless the button is a responder to the program. Does the program trigger on Control or Status?

That'll result in the new switch being named kitchenSwitch XX. You may want to name the new switch kitchenSwitch XX instead. The end result is that the new switch will be renamed kitchenSwitch (without the XX) when the replacement finishes.

Trivial comment: Unlike Range Extenders, SignaLincs do not use 915Mhz to communicate nor do they repeat Insteon signals (not RF, not power line). They do not extend the range of the Insteon signal.Their only purpose is a bridge for the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply. Considering the devices you listed, they can be safely removed. They're somewhat ungainly, too Edit: print out a topology for the new owner: Tools, Generate Topology. It may take awhile to generate.

Start by replacing x with 10. If that works, then reduce x. What happens if you turn the scene on and off from the Admin Console instead of the program? Do you get consistent expected results? BTW, repeat 1 time runs the statement only once, not twice.

I never name the replacement device, so it apears as the Insteon ID. That makes it easy to select the replacement and, when the process is complete, the old device is actually gone and the new device has the old device's name.

In any scene, it's possible to set one device to be On and another to be Off when the scene if "On." If the scene is turned off then the On device will be turned off, but so will the off device, so the state of the scene is meaningless. Use the state of a device in the scene in your If statement, preferably a device that's not in any other scene.

That you need two statements to turn a scene on indicates a communication problem which would explain why the results are not as expected.

You can use either a dimmer or an On/Off device to control the light part of the FanLinc since the controller is not actually wired to the FanLinc. The advantages of the dimmer, other than dimming, is that it's silent (the On/Off device clicks), the dimmer uses thinner wires (14AWG as opposed to 12AWG) and the dimmer is less deep making it easier to install. Virtually all brand named electrical and electronic devices are NEC approved.

I know about distortion pedals. Hey, I hang around with my bud of 2 1/2 decades who plays with Robbie Kreiger and was lead guitar for Wild Child (I still get free tickets), but I don't like the distortion to be inherent to my audio system. I want to hear the distortion as it was created, not add to it

There is still no consensus on the topic of "warm sound" that's attributed to tubes when compared to transistors, but we all get excited when I turn the sound up

BTW, McInstosh amps have always been conservatively rated. I also have a 50wpc amp (MC250), that was tested by McIntosh Labs (while I observed) at 75wpc and still within rated distortion levels. I have to admit, I've never heard of "good" distortion

I, too, was hesitant about a solid state McIntosh (not MacIntosh) amp--until I heard it. Here's what these amps sell for new. I got most of my audio gear about 30 years ago. The amp was 20 years old then. The sound is incredible, especially after being services by Northridge Electronics.

A bit shorter and you can easily adjust the number of repetitions needed. If Time is Sunset Then Repeat x times Set Scene 'Night Time Mood Dim' On Wait 3 seconds Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') But, LeeG's advice is best. Find the communication difficulty that's causing the problem.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/McIntosh-MC2200-Solid-State-Amplifier-200w-Type-044637-/351708797655?hash=item51e37a5ad7:g:wYcAAOSwHnFVoAwX http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/ele/5548035394.html https://www.audiogon.com/listings/solid-state-mcintosh-mc-2200-200-wpc-at-8-ohms-plus-2016-04-30-amplifiers-11050-2468-port-washington-ny

Shopping lists are saved only to the account in use, so are alarms and timers. Prime music is not available, even from linked accounts.

The 50 year old amp I'm referring to sells for more than $1000 now. Sometimes, one is available on eBay for a bit less BTW, I've been using floppy disks ever since they were 8" in diameter. You really fell into it if you pair $1000 for a box of 10. Were they gold plated? Here's a current eBay link for the amp. I don't know why it has an Apple logo.

The FanLinc should not be wired to any switches at all. You can use any Insteon controller to operate the fan and turn the light on or off. A dimmer (not wire to the FanLinc) can control brightness of the light. A separate controller is needed for each fan speed and off (also not wired to the FanLinc). A 6-button KeypadLinc fulfills all those functions. So does a 4-button Mini Remote. There are many other choices. IMO, there are many places where the least expensive device makes sense. Safety is not one of them.

All my Echo devices are location sensitive. All it requires is multiple accounts, currently limited to five and different wake words of which there are only three.

Quality matters more. For example, I have an audio amplifier that has only left volume, right volume and an on/off switch that originally sold for more than $1000 nearly five decades ago. It still has unbelievable sound. At 200wpc, I can raise the volume beyond the point of pain without discernible distortion. Too, a bare bones Ferrari costs considerably more than a fully equipped Ford

For me, HA involves controlling each and every device in my home that needs controlling from wherever I am in my home as well as having events occur without intervention. Most of those device do not need intervention when I am away. I've accomplished most of HA using the ISY. I have a Keypad in a desktop enclosure within reach of nearly every seat we use. Most wall switches are Keypads (ISY). Virtually ever window covering is motorized and plays out on schedule (ISY) although we have manual control too, for example, Somfy wall controllers and handhelds and, also, Keypads and Mini Remotes (ISY). But every one of those needs to be within easy reach. Pragmatically, voice is the best controller when I'm on a ladder, under the desk or more commonly, both hands are occupied. OTOH, being able to control those devices using your voice is just pure fun, but the equipment to allow and maintain that easily requires paying rent. There are single cost solutions that do not involve reinventing the wheel, but they do require making the wheel .

Follow these Restore Modem instructions to the letter. Do NOT Delete Modem. Read, reread and read the instructions one more time before starting.

An in-wall motion sensor connect to a Micro Module is all you need. If you use that as the garage light switch, it will also light up the garage which will suddenly surprise someone sneaking stealthily, surely sending spinal shudders

I'm not a fan of subscriptions and avoid them whenever I can. But I do have two land lines and a smartphone, all of which are useless w/o a subscription. I also get newspapers and magazines. It's the price I pay for the services I want

That's your opinion--which I fully respect. All I'm saying is that opinions differ and setting a scene to a particular level varies among users. For example, if I have a scene that has a device at 50% and I want the light to be at 30%, I'd like to be able to say 30%--the level I want, not 60% (3/5 of the current level). To me, it's counter-intuitive to have to say 60% when I mean 30%. That plus having to calculate the percentage of the current On-level to achieve a new On-level. For example, it a load is at 75% and I want 50%, I'd have to ask for the level to be at 67% And if I can't use 100% when I mean full on or any other level above the preset On-level, then that minimizes the use of setting scene percentages.

And 100% would be? The scene On-level for each device? If so, then how does one bring the devices to full on? If not, then how can the scene levels be resurrected?