stusviews

T'was never broken. The Insteon protocol does not include setting a scene to a percentage, only devices. Changing the basis of what commands do is not a trivial matter. Even if it were possible, what would it mean? Does set the scene to 31% mean set each responder device to an On-level of 31%. Or is it 31% of what each dimmer is currently at? What happens to On/Off devices? What does 100% mean? Turn devices on to their respective scene On-level or turn every device in the scene full on? Benoit found a way to adjust scene responders by about 9% in each direction, dim or brighten.

If you don't see the ISY in the router, then you're looking for the wrong address. It's possible the IP address has changed or the connection is bad. Try a different cable and.or port.

Do you mean that the house is prewired for a security system?

Disable Relay Follows Input and disconnect one sense wire as a test.

The red circle with the slash indicate that the I/O Linc has been disabled. Right click on the I/O Linc to re-enable it.

Both <PrtSc> and <Alt><PrtSc> work for me using Window 10. The second command is handy if a program took over the <PrtSc> key.

Yes. A good test is to momentarily jumper the pushbutton connections.

I'm finding just the opposite, that is, I sometimes need to ask twice. Just like the real world

None of what we've said about measurements involves safety. In fact, what we are recommending is actually dangerous. To wit, take a measurement between the live wire and anything you may be standing on or in or touch. Rather, we're addressing identifying each wire with certainty to minimize, even avoid wiring mishaps. With that knowledge beforehand, the wires get connected and voila, everything works

Anything on the power line can be a source of noise, especially power supplies (wall warts), but noise can't cause a link between devices. Does the errant responder (the one that turns off) also turn on when the other kitchen dimmer is turned on? Do both kitchen dimmers control the same load?

Caution: Voltage indicators can be misleading. Always use a voltmeter. Even the least costly one is adequate.

The controller part is easy. Create a scene with each device as a controller. Optionally, set the On-level and ramp rate. They can be the same or different for each device. Or do you mean something else?

I read that, too. I don't care at all about the sound, only the portability for Smart Home devices. I'd really like confirmation from someone with hands-on experience

The spoken (noun) for my sound system is "stereo." I have spoken (verb).

Is the Tap a truly portable Echo. In particular, does the Tap include Smart Home (formerly Connected Home) devices?

Is that the one connected to the load?

Keep in mind that in virtually every multiway configuration, that wire colors are meaningless. In particular, one or more white wires are not neutral and black is not always line.

Hi Michel, I have a bunch of both Echos and Dots. In one room there's an Echo and a Dot using the same account (different wake names). Both behave identically, that is, open/close works with devices and scenes but not at all with programs. Respectfully, Stu

I just had to Forget all devices and then Discover devices to restore all some spokens. BTW, spoken is now a spoken noun

Same results with "pathway" and walkway." Both are programs that control window coverings. On/Off works, Close/Open does not.

You are correct, the Wiki is wrong. As Benoit indicated, On runs Then and Off runs Else. If you want to run If, the you need to tell Alexa to ask Izzy to run the program (or ask Alexa to tell Izzy)

Where are you located?

I'm controlling Micro Modules with an ISY99i Pro.

If you use a 2413S PLM, then you'll also need an external power supply.

Post the four programs. Include descriptors and annotations.