stusviews

If the variable somehow changes to a value other than 1 or 0, then the program will stop running and you will not be notified. I'd add an incremental variable as a trouble-shooting technique (e.g., does the program stop after x iterations) and also change from: If $PoolHeating is 0 to If $PoolHeating is not 1

I, too, was disappointed that I could not set the toggle state for each button as can be done with KeypadLincs. If you need both dimming and non-toggle on, then you can 1) set the Mini Remote for non-toggle on and use program(s) to dim using the left button or 2) set the Mini Remote to toggle and use programs to send an On when off is received.

I had some Echos, one account, one name. I was able to control all included devices, scenes and programs from either Echo. But, the meant that each device or scene needed a location identifier, for example "living room light." But, that seemed awkward. I normally don't ask someone to turn on the living room light when I'm in the living room, rather I ask them the turn the light on. That cumbersome conversation was solved by having multiple Amazon accounts. Anyone who uses an Echo has to have an account. Adding another is easy and there's no need to actually use that account. That allowed me to tell Alexa to turn the "light" or "fan" or "lamp" on or off when in a particular room and specify the room if I'm not in it. So, when I'm in the bedroom, I ask Alexa to turn on the light, but if I'm not in the bedroom, I ask Alexa to turn on the bedroom light. That's close to, even literally, normal speech. As I added Echos, some were within earshot of each other which gave mixed responses. So, I gave those different names. It took a little while to remember, but that's what learning is all about. Oh, each Echo can switch between up to two accounts using your voice. (Don't forget to switch back)

Halogen bulbs are incandescent bulbs with iodine or bromine added.

You need to remove the device from any folder it may be in before selecting Replace With.

You can use your voice to switch between up to two Echo accounts. You can also give each Echo one of three wake up names. The Tap is mobile, but I don't know if Smart Home (formerly Connected Home) is available.

Is the load dimmable. If not then a dimmer is not appropriate. Even at 100%, the TRIACs in a dimmer clip the waveform which may reduce the life of the load, the dimmer or both.

If Control 'toggleinc' is switched Fast On Then Set ...

Which ISY Pro did you upgrade from and to? A 99i to a 994i?

Sub-panels (panels that are fed from the main panel) are not a problem. Panels with separate feeds from the power company should each be bridged.

That's true for, as you stated, half-height breakers. Any one standard breaker can be replaced with two half-height breakers, each on the same leg. Just wondering, do you not have any 220/240VAC devices which require yoked full height breakers--or a master breaker/interrupt (which is sometimes in a separate box)/?

It's the only way to be sure the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply are bridged for Insteon signals (unless you have a hard-wired coupler).

Not correct. Breakers on the same horizontal level on the same leg of the split, single-phase electric supply. Breakers do alternate vertically. A A B B A A B B A A . . .

Interesting. I ordered two Dots and two of three Echos updated.

Two of my three Echos updated to 3202 from 3077. I don't know when as I didn't bother to look until now.

I'm guessing that PLC is a typo. The PowerLinc Controller hasn't been available for years.

1. Setting a scene to an On-level does not turn the scene on. That has to be done manually, via the ISY interface or from a program, Setting the scene to an On-level only sets the level for the next time the scene is turned on. 2. When I create a program with 'waits,' it's not the wait I'm testing, it's the other statements. So, I usually set the wait to a few seconds during testing. 3. If the program has a start and/or end time, I set the time to begin in a minute or two and adjust the end time, if any, appropriately.

The requisite that you already have an Echo is/was only to be entitled to order a Dot and/or Tab. You do need to have an Amazon account, though.

Actually, a multi-program strategy can eliminate the need to repeat the same statements: Main Program If whenever Then Run Program 'dim' (Then) Wait Run Program 'bright' (Then) Wait . . . Program Dim If - No conditions - Then In scene 'scene_name' set 'device_name' 50% (On Level) Set 'scene_name' on Program Bright If - No conditions - Then In scene 'scene_name' set 'device_name' 100% (On Level) Set 'scene_name' on

My experience is that any device from Amazon is the latest. It seems to have been set from SH.

Devices/scenes do not automatically turn on after a wait state. You have to issue a command to turn then on. Set 'scene_name' on Wait In scene 'scene_name' set 'device_name' 50% (On Level) Set 'scene_name' on Wait In scene 'scene_name' set 'device_name' 100% (On Level) Set 'scene_name' on repeat as needed. Glick

I'm still confused. AFAIK, Izzy is an echo skill. So, what specifically did you power cycle (i.e., remove and restore power)?

Your program sets devices in a scene to a particular level and turns the scene on, then, after waiting, sets the same devices in the same scene to the same levels. The scene will execute on Fri at 6:00PM and again at Sat at 11:00PM. There is no statement that turns the devices back to 100%. What specifically are you trying to accomplish (e.g,, between sundown and sunrise, shabbos)?

How did you reboot "IZZY?" BTW, I wasn't affected by the stoppage.