stusviews

No one looking for profit will play with your ISY controlled devices, but there are those who do it for fun, not funds.

Only the ISY system query causes a difficulty with trigger reverse. HouseLinc didn't, for example.

Yes. Virtually all ceiling boxes are round/octagonal and have adequate room for a Micro Module.

A 2-gang (4" sq) box solves many problems and I recommend it for all installations, but it doesn't solve depth problems. OTOH, you can install deep boxes or place the micro controller in the ceiling box. You won't be able to control brightness from the switch/hand wave, but you will from the ISY or any devices linked to micro conrtoller. Z-Wave if RF only. You may get better communication with an Insteon Micro Module.

A folder state variable is evaluated as is a program state variable. No other conditions are required.

The only difficulty I see is the unknown depth of the Wave switch.

AFAIK, version 5 (Alpha) is the only version that allows storing the current On-level of a device.Currently, I use scenes to set On-levels, so if I want the level to return, I simply use whatever program to turn the scene on. IMO, if I had a leak, setting the devices to their On-levels would not be a big concern. Tending to the leak is primary

Also note that the folder has a green indicator. That indicates that the condition is being evaluated as true.

Are both the firmware and UI the same version now?

You would need two Micro Modules for each duplex switch. You may or may no be able to fit both in the switch box, but one or both can be installed in the fixture box. But if you're going to start HA, IMO you'll be better served by installing a Keypad on one Micro Module. The ISY does require some skills, but this forum is a great place to learn. That's because, unlike a class that provides general knowledge, each specific situation is tackled. OTOH, you may want to start with the Hub due to its low cost. If you decide that you need more, than it's not much of a loss. You gain quite a bit of knowledge of how the Insteon protocol works with either choice.

See my #8 reply here.

A major disadvantage for me is that using the Hub causes the lighting to always turn on at full brightness. There is no way around that. Also, Keypad secondary buttons are not supported. The result is that if you use a secondary button to turn off a device that's been turned on by the Hub, then you need to press the button twice. The fan part of the FanLinc is not controllable at all by the Hub. The Hub does not support scenes. So if you have a scene that turns on devices to different On-levels, the you'll need to separately adjust each load after using the Hub to turn on a group. Ramp rates are not supported by the Hub at all. BTW, I do have a mix of ISY and Hub controlled devices.

I use the skill to run some programs.

It seems that the thermostat is being used only for its relay contacts (R & W), so there is no voltage present (except the batteries which power the display and programming).

Happy to help

With the On only command checked, the MS never sends anything but On. Use Control instead of Status.

My screen is entirely different. ISY Skills search The first and third skills have identical descriptions The new version is NOT labelled as Beta. Hmm

Not so. There are low voltage indicators. I used them years back to trace circuits on car, boat and small aircraft engines.

We use either only heat or only cool or nothing at all most of the year. But in our location there's a few day over a period of weeks where we need heat in the morning and cooling in the afternoon. During those few weeks, the thermostat is set to auto. Also, the thermostat is set to auto during bedtime, heat below 60 and cool above 80. Occasionally, we may it a bit warmer or cooler. It'd be nice to not have to get out of bed to make that change.

The I/O Linc is the most difficult Insteon device to set up correctly. That's because it's also the most versatile able to be used in a multitude of situations. Because of this versatility, it's imperative, if you are using it in any way other than the few examples show in the manual, that you fully read and understand how each mode works and how setting options can change that.

1. There is a somewhat larger blue wire coming from the top connected to a white wire on cable 2. 2. There is a red wire from cable 1 connected to a heavier yellow wire from the bottom. What is the voltage between 1 and 2? You will need a meter. If you don't have one, even the least costly is adequate. A voltage indicator won't suffice.

Not all ISY compatible thermostats the external temperature temperature, so the first option is limited. I wrote some programs that run based on the last state, so I fully agree that it matters. Also, I'd like to be able to just turn on heating or cooling the whatever the setpoint happens to be.

Thx for the update. Party on

I have several portal sub-accounts (different Amazon accounts). Any problem if upgrade just one? And have a great party

If the green and yellow wires are not connected to anything, then it's not possible to control cooling. So the thermostat cable in this image cannot be the other end of the cable coming from the thermostat. There is also a second cable shown. Where does that cable come from?