stusviews

Using incorrect terminology is not a semantical error. It's simply incorrect and can lead to wiring errors. An Insteon dimmer is a dimmer, even if the load is not connected to anything. Insteon dimmers use TRIACs and are silent. Insteon On/Off devices use relays that click when turned on--even without a load connected. Every 3-way configuration has exactly two travelers. Each of those travelers can be any of black, red or white. One traveler is usually used to provide a neutral at the 3-way switch box that doesn't have one. The second traveler is capped. On occasion, neither 3-way switch box will have a neutral, but each switch box will have a connected white wire (and red and black). The line wire at a switch can be white, even in a 3-way configuration (i.e., 2-wire cable between the switch box and fixture box). If someone is not intrinsically familiar with electrical wiring, most especially multi-way configurations, then it's best to describe the wiring at each box ans seek help

Not so. Both dimmers are used, but only one is connected to the load. Both the Insteon primary (connected to the load) and Insteon secondary switches require that the black wire (line) be connected as well as a neutral wire. Switched (or unswitched) outlets never have any traveler wires, ever. Only multi-way switch configurations do.

I have one of our wireless thermostats added to the ISY and it shows correctly as a 2441ZTH.

I changed the IP address and was unable to access the ISY. My error. After scrolling thorough attached devices I found that the address I chose has been assigned to a different device. I tried a reset several times to no avail. What will I lose if I perform a factory reset? BTW, I have more that 40 attached devices. Fixed The device with the same address was a 5G WiFi device, so I turned off 5G wireless, logged on and reconfigured the ISY :oops: I'm now creating a backup Not OK Portal indicates that the ISY is not on-line. All four accounts are gone.

Battery powered devices don't always update their status. What's the result if you query the thermostat--after placing in into linking mode?

Sounds like a wiring error. You mention that one switch is connected to the hot and light. That switch (primary( probably has a neutral, too. But the other switch (secondary) also requires a hot and neutral. Be aware that in virtually all 3-way configurations at least one white wire is not a neutral, black is not line and red is not load. Describe the wiring in each switch box. You can disregard any ground wires.

1. The PLMs failed due to poor quality components. That's reported to have been corrected starting with V2.+ 2. Restore Modem should replace all instances of the old PLM Insteon ID with the new one. The ISY knows which PLM it's connected to. You may want to perform Restore Modem again.

I always wonder why people leave tens of thousands of dollars worth of vehicles in the street in order to store a few hundred dollars of goods junk, but a workshop is a very valid reason

Insteon does have a KPL that does not include a dimmer. Also, there's no requirement to connect a dimmer's load wire to anything But I'm not sure about the problem you state, that is, running out of dimming range, except that not all LED bulbs dim to zero. The usual range is down to about 5 to 10%, then off.

Expand the scene. Click on each device in the scene separately. Observer the ramp rate for each device.

This program will query the device at each time you selected. If Time is insert time 1 here Or Time is insert time 2 here Or Time is insert time 3 here etc Then Set 'Device you want to query' Query Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

You do all that with just four buttons?

We're on Auto or off when we're away for more than an hour and mode specific when we're home. The setting at home depends entirely on "feel," and may change at any time. The settings vary depending on the zone and time of day or, more appropriately, location of the sun which rises n the back and sets in front.

Each button's LED can be individually controlled, but the brightness level must be the same for all buttons. BTW, I use diffusers to make each button more easily identifiable.

As larryflix advised an 8-button KPL is ideal. And, like larryfix, I don't have any problems with KPLs. Yes, the ISY will allow you to adjust the brightness of the button LEDs. Although each button has a different group number, the LEDs do not. A change affects all buttons concurrently.

Just place the freezer 29 feet deep in the ground. It's cooler there, too, so you'll save on electricity.

As a test, create a program that will triggers if the temperature changes one degree up or down. Email is slow, a text is better, a light turning on is best. When you get the message, observe what the ISY shows.

How about KeypadLinc. You can even install one in a TableTop enclosure.

Well, that's good. Other than viewing the temperature, do you need/want to take action based on the ambient temperature? BTW, I don't know when the thermostat updates the ISY on its own? But, programs based on temperature function correctly.

What's the result if you query the thermostat?

We live in a major city with thousands of intersections, many of which are not perpendicular. Depending on the approach, it's possible to see the traffic light facing the cross-traffic.

I installed one of those in my wife's garage, but the lights confused her. So do traffic lights

Low tech wheel chocks. If your an aggressive parker, then they need to be checked occasionally

I always click on each and every device in the scene to determine what that specific device is doing.

Although the referred to instructions indicate that "brighten" and "dim" work only for devices, those commands work for scenes, too. The increment for devices is about 3% with each command; for scenes, each command increments the brightness by about 9%.