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Everything posted by stusviews
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That's what took me so long to test the Up/Down Module
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Echo goes mobile. Hundai now, Ford & BMW later
stusviews replied to stusviews's topic in Amazon Echo
Here's dumb technology, not. Once again, it's the driver not the technology that's unsafe--at any speed. -
Two echos, hooked with 1 account .. two ISY's .. two houses
stusviews replied to Jason Miller's topic in Amazon Echo
Using one account, you can give each kitchen light a different spoken. If you want to use the same command, then you need to create a second Amazon account and a second portal sub-account. I currently have four accounts for that reason. If I'm in a particular room, I only need to ask Alexa to turn the light on, I don't need to specify which room. -
That's correct. As I indicated (post #57), you'll still need something to turn the fan off. That's easy, any Insteon line controller can do that, a Micro Module, a SwitchLinc, an In-lineLinc, etc. No, you wont's damage anything if you use an EZFlora to control 12VDC.
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Yes, an EZFlora would work because you can energize only one relay at a time. You''ll still need a way to turn the fan off, but we can take of that after you get everything working
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No luck. I tried manually linking. I also tried applying power continuously to the sense wires and even a program. Same result, the module times out. Apparently latching applies to the standard switch wired to the sense wire(s), not the function of the module. My error, I recommended the module The only other Insteon SPDT device is an I/O Linc. That'd require a low voltage power supply and two relays with matching a voltage coil in place of the relays you have now.
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Have you tried eliminating the controller button scenes and manually linking the buttons to the Micro Module (see post #44)?
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Echo goes mobile. Hundai now, Ford & BMW later
stusviews replied to stusviews's topic in Amazon Echo
There are the doomers and the gloomers. But this forum also has an abundance of bloomers who are the creators and groomers who are the perfectors. -
Echo goes mobile. Hundai now, Ford & BMW later
stusviews replied to stusviews's topic in Amazon Echo
Therefore, Teken is taken as a token -
On a different forum, someone post a difficulty with the up/down time not being equal. The solution was to bypass the Hub and to manually link the controller to the Micro Module. Different scenario, but worth a try.
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Set the momentary time to any value, say 2 or 5 or 8 seconds. Set the Micro Module to latching. Press the button controller. How long did the fan stay on?
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Echo goes mobile. Hundai now, Ford & BMW later
stusviews replied to stusviews's topic in Amazon Echo
The cars are not self-driving at all. They offer additional safety as ABS does and like convenience of cruise control. One still needs to keep their both hands on the steering wheel, both eyes on the road--the road being the cars behind, the cars on the left, the cars on the right and as many cars in front as possible. -
Interesting. I added our GDO yesterday and used open/close. I just read your post and tried. Open/close works!!! edit: Maybe 'door' is a problem. I didn't use that word.
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Amazon Echo built into Hundai
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It seems that the module is in momentary mode. Follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual to place the module into latching mode or factory reset the module (latching is the default).
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Uncheck Momentary, Dual Line and Line High
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I had a Leak sensor battery die within a few months. You don't need a special battery for a test. Any fresh AA will suffice.
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AFAIK, the only way to manipulate (turn on or off) the state of a secondary button is to create a scene that has only the button as a responder.
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If Control 'Main House / Bedrooms / Main: Upstair Steve Keypad D' is switched On And Control 'Main House / Bedrooms / Main: Upstair Steve Keypad D' is not switched Off Then Set 'Main House / Bedrooms / Main: Upstair Steve Keypad' 4% Else Set 'Main House / Bedrooms / Main: Upstair Steve Keypad' Off
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The wet should trip when placed on a wet paper towel, no need to dunk it.
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You need to check for links when absolutely no Insteon activity is occurring. That includes disabling all programs. You may also want to disable any sensors which will lower the count a bit. To disable a device, right click on it.
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Yes, just like a scene, each device has to be added to the program. It's a bit more tedious. Here's a calculator that may be of use to you.
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A node (e.g., heartbeat) is not a link unless it has a responder. Each controller plus each responder, even if they're in the same scene. If you have one controller and 10 responders, then you have 10 links. If you don't mind the delay, use programs instead of an All Off scene. The devices will respond sequentially instead of concurrently, but program don't create links.
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Select each and every device in the High scene individually. You'll probably find a slider in the wrong position
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Front Hall MS If Control 'IN / Devices / IN Front Hall-Sensor' is switched On <-- use Control, not Status Then Set 'IN / Devices / IN Front Hall KPL Light 15' 33% <-- set an On-level Wait 3 minutes and 10 seconds <-- select a duration of you choosing Set 'IN / Devices / IN Front Hall KPL Light 15' Off <-- the load won't turn off without this statement Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Create a program that disables this on if the load is turned on manually (Control) and enables the program when the load is turned off. Enable Program If Control 'IN / Devices / IN Front Hall KPL Light 15' is switched On <-- runs Then when the device is manually turned on And Control 'IN / Devices / IN Front Hall KPL Light 15' is not switched Off <-- <-- runs Else when the device is manually turned off Then Disable Program 'Front Hall MS Off' Else Enable Program 'Front Hall MS Off'